New handlebars or bar risers?

Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
20
Location
Johnson City, TN
Bike
2011 Black NT700 ABS
I see a lot of posts for raising your bars on an NT700 but I am still on the fence about new bars or risers. I had carpal tunnel and trigger finger surgeries on most of my fingers about ten years ago and I can't do the sport bike lean any more. Not sure who Honda was targeting with these things but I love the bike other than the lean. I may need to go an inch up and 2-3 inches back to be pretty straight up.

I have a BMW K75 with RT bars on it from 1993 which I put on a bar back 1X1" which works great. No numbness or tingling. Of course the K75 is arguably the smoothest BMW they ever made. For me the Honda has a better seat since the last owner sent it off to Sargent who carved it, amazingly, into my ass shape. It also seems to weigh less with a lower center of gravity. And it has storage in the fairing, the BMW has no fairing.

Anyway, what do you recommend to set me straight up? I understand I will probably need to lengthen brake line and cables, what about the switch wiring? Does that need to be lengthened as well?
 
If the bend of the bars (the angle of your wrists) works for you then stick with the standard bars and add risers. If it doesn't, then you'll need to find other bars.

The wiring for the switches is OK but finding a long front brake hose will be a challenge because of the special end (at the frame) used on the ABS bikes and maybe even the non-ABS bikes.
 
Last edited:
I'm with you. My body couldn't take the 'forward lean' of the NT when I got it. My aching back and lack of core strength didn't match the lean angle. I put the Heli-Bar riser on right away which definitely put me in the 'sit up and beg' position. Since the Heli-Bar riser for the NT has been discontinued, I have seen some members go with the Rox Risers, some models of which provide vibration dampening. Seems like a good product with lots of adjustability. Yes, you will need a longer clutch cable, which is available by buying the Honda TransAlp cable which is the same at the NT, but 2" longer. There may be enough play in the brake hose by loosening it from it's mount.
 
one option to elongate the clutch cable and reduce clutch pull effort.


I bought this handle bar to replce the OEM bar (as it has so many axis of adjustability), still waitng to put it on though...

 
If the bend of the bars (the angle of your wrists) works for you then stick with the standard bars and add risers. If it doesn't, then you'll need to find other bars.

The wiring for the switches is OK but finding a long front brake cable will be a challenge because of the special end (at the frame) used on the ABS bikes and maybe even the non-ABS bikes.

I was looking at that coupling on the brake line and wondering if you can buy one but longer. I have ABS. I can live with the bar shape and was looking at these ROX risers, maybe not this long but maybe so?


By the way, I am from Marion, OH but have not lived there in 22 years. I kind of remember having my bike insured May to October and winterized the rest of the year. It is insured year round in east TN. Winters aren't nearly as bad or as long. I rode 200 miles over the weekend, it was 60-75 degrees. Not normal but we do get good days in the winter sometimes.
 
I'm with you. My body couldn't take the 'forward lean' of the NT when I got it. My aching back and lack of core strength didn't match the lean angle. I put the Heli-Bar riser on right away which definitely put me in the 'sit up and beg' position. Since the Heli-Bar riser for the NT has been discontinued, I have seen some members go with the Rox Risers, some models of which provide vibration dampening. Seems like a good product with lots of adjustability. Yes, you will need a longer clutch cable, which is available by buying the Honda TransAlp cable which is the same at the NT, but 2" longer. There may be enough play in the brake hose by loosening it from it's mount.
So does the windshield block the wind once you sit up? The fairing was a big reason I went with the NT, I am getting too old to get blasted all day. My BMW has a Rifle handlebar fairing which keeps it off your face and chest but nothing else. The other reason I got the NT is because it was light weight and cheap compared to the alternative, either an ST1100 or an R1200RT. Both great bikes and cheap enough used but hefting them around the garage is not something I want to do.

I had a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade a few years ago, it was a land yacht. It weighted about 800+ lbs but was incredible at blocking the wind unless you opened vents. I think it had a TV on board if my memory isn't fading. It definitely could carry the kitchen sink in one of its bags.
 
The standard windshield does a good job at blocking the wind, but if you are looking for maximum protection from the wind, the National V-Stream is the way to go. I actually use both. From about April to October I use the OE windshield and put the National on for the cold months. For me the National works too well in the summer as I need a bit of airflow to remain cool.

Mike
 
The standard windshield does a good job at blocking the wind, but if you are looking for maximum protection from the wind, the National V-Stream is the way to go. I actually use both. From about April to October I use the OE windshield and put the National on for the cold months. For me the National works too well in the summer as I need a bit of airflow to remain cool.

Mike
PFA the amazon link for the National, it keeps fluctuating between 140 and 171 USD.


 
I've got the National V-Stream and use it year around. I'm OK with heat, but hate getting blasted by wind. I think those 3 1/2" Rox Risers look interesting, but I think you'd have to replace both the clutch and brake cables. I don't think the TransAlp clutch cable would give you that much extra (although I might try one before I got a whole new cable made. The wiring might be an issue, too.

I don't like forward lean either but the 2" risers I got let me raise the bar and then rotate it so that it was a bit farther back and a bit lower. That has worked for me for the last 134,000 miles. BTW, I'm 5'7" with a 28" inseam. Twisted Throttle has a bunch of risers, even some 4" ones! Galfer will make brake line kits fairly reasonably.

Another thing that has helped my ergonomics has been the addition of a cruise control (which isn't working right now) and, before I got that, a Throttlemeister throttle lock. Being able to take one hand off the bars helps me a lot on long rides.
 
One thing that attracts me to the NT700V is precisely that it is easy to change the handlebars. On my Honda ST1300, the bars are a specific fit and so you really need a riser to change the geometry. I managed to find a good riser, but it was expensive and it no longer widely available.

The other good thing for carpal tunnel injuries is a set of gloves that are designed to alleviate the syndrome.

Check out Shock-Tek gloves at http://www.shocktek.com/

These gloves were developed by a medical doctor who is an expert in the treatment of carpal tunnel injuries. Apparently, he studied the types of hand injuries experienced by auto assembly line workers in Michigan and the gloves are designed to address the problem of excessive pressure on the carpal nerve that runs right up the middle of the palm of your hand. They make gloves specifically for manual labourers, cycling and motorcycling.

1578971847961.png

I have several pairs of their motorcycling gloves and they are absolutely excellent gloves (even aside from the carpal tunnel aspect).

They have a number of styles from summer-weight mesh to heavier cold-weather gauntlets and they are full leather and very nicely made - plus they aren't expensive. I think a set of the mesh gloves was around $40 USD. The Shock-Tek office is in suburban Detroit MI and you just use the fitting guide on their website and then call and order from the nice lady in Grosse Pointe Farms, MI. They'll ship them out to you chop-chop.
 

Attachments

  • 1578971515331.png
    1578971515331.png
    11 KB · Views: 3
To get comfortable do what you have to do but the NT was designed as a sport touring motorcycle and a forward learn is part of its design. Once you move yourself upright you are going to put yourself into the airflow and create some imbalance in the handling. Once my NT's design started to wear on me I traded it in on something designed for an upright riding posture that also gives me an equal amount of wind/weather protection.
 
Well, here I go again...disagreeing with Warren. The most comfortable bike I've ever been on in my life was an R1150RT. I was sitting upright and the RT is definitely a sport-touring bike. I sit upright on my NT and I'll be darned if sitting upright puts me into the airflow or creates any imbalance in the handling.

Of course, Warren may just be far more sensitive to handling imbalance than I am. But I doubt it.
 
Well, here I go again...disagreeing with Warren. The most comfortable bike I've ever been on in my life was an R1150RT. I was sitting upright and the RT is definitely a sport-touring bike. I sit upright on my NT and I'll be darned if sitting upright puts me into the airflow or creates any imbalance in the handling.

Of course, Warren may just be far more sensitive to handling imbalance than I am. But I doubt it.

Well, I'm on thin ice here because I have never ridden an NT700V - BUT - I think that everyone should ride the bike they like and do whatever it takes to make it comfortable for them. I have put bar risers and peg lowering blocks on my ST1300 and it went from being a 20-30 minute bike to an all-day bike. It didn't slow the ST down at all and it still handles like a big (and REALLY fast) freight train on rails. The only thing that upsets that bike is loading to the top-box too heavily.

Few riders weight more than about 1/4-1/3 of the total weight of the bike+rider and so I really don't think that small adjustments in whatever the rider does or how he/she sits will have a profound an effect on handling.
 
One thing that attracts me to the NT700V is precisely that it is easy to change the handlebars. On my Honda ST1300, the bars are a specific fit and so you really need a riser to change the geometry. I managed to find a good riser, but it was expensive and it no longer widely available.

The other good thing for carpal tunnel injuries is a set of gloves that are designed to alleviate the syndrome.

Check out Shock-Tek gloves at http://www.shocktek.com/

These gloves were developed by a medical doctor who is an expert in the treatment of carpal tunnel injuries. Apparently, he studied the types of hand injuries experienced by auto assembly line workers in Michigan and the gloves are designed to address the problem of excessive pressure on the carpal nerve that runs right up the middle of the palm of your hand. They make gloves specifically for manual labourers, cycling and motorcycling.

View attachment 15215

I have several pairs of their motorcycling gloves and they are absolutely excellent gloves (even aside from the carpal tunnel aspect).

They have a number of styles from summer-weight mesh to heavier cold-weather gauntlets and they are full leather and very nicely made - plus they aren't expensive. I think a set of the mesh gloves was around $40 USD. The Shock-Tek office is in suburban Detroit MI and you just use the fitting guide on their website and then call and order from the nice lady in Grosse Pointe Farms, MI. They'll ship them out to you chop-chop.

Yea, I tried all those remedies before my CT surgeries. After nine hand surgeries I am an expert at hand manipulation to relieve pressure. I had both carpal tunnels snipped about ten years ago and they have been OK since but after a short ride on my new NT700 I had the usual numbness there. Unacceptable. I also had 8 fingers trigger and get snipped over a ten year period, even more fun than carpal tunnel. Each finger has its own tunnel and tendon to snip. I have also had De Quervain's tenosynovitis. It cleared on its own. It sounds bad but I had a good surgeon who fixed all these problems and I have been OK since.

I have a BMW K75 that sits straight up which gives me no pain so I am sure I can fix the Honda to my liking or I will sell it I guess? Funny I don't remember ergonomics being an issue when I was young and fearless on a 72 Kawasaki H1. That was 41 years ago. Getting old sucks.
 
Well considering how Honda only sold these things for two years here there is a reason or two why they didn't sell. The lean is one, the tupperware nightmare another. The lack of a handle to lift the bike on the center stand another.

I had that Suzuki Cavalcade and was able to easily lift it on the center stand at 823 lbs. Also my K75 has a fold out handle which makes it easy to lift on the stand. WTH was Honda thinking? Of course the real elephant in the showroom was the original price at what $11k+? Insane. I paid $3750, with the mods it needs, probably too much?

Now here is a comfy bike. Mine was identical to this one. They are still out there for sale. God don't let it fall over.

1579021851947.png

But I like the ABS brakes and the wind blockage and the low center of gravity and having my feet flat on the ground on the NT or I would not have bought it. I just need to sit up, I don't care what it does to the ride or the wind, at 60HP it will yank me down the road good enough. My racing days and my land yacht days are long over.
 
I've got the National V-Stream and use it year around. I'm OK with heat, but hate getting blasted by wind. I think those 3 1/2" Rox Risers look interesting, but I think you'd have to replace both the clutch and brake cables. I don't think the TransAlp clutch cable would give you that much extra (although I might try one before I got a whole new cable made. The wiring might be an issue, too.

I don't like forward lean either but the 2" risers I got let me raise the bar and then rotate it so that it was a bit farther back and a bit lower. That has worked for me for the last 134,000 miles. BTW, I'm 5'7" with a 28" inseam. Twisted Throttle has a bunch of risers, even some 4" ones! Galfer will make brake line kits fairly reasonably.

Another thing that has helped my ergonomics has been the addition of a cruise control (which isn't working right now) and, before I got that, a Throttlemeister throttle lock. Being able to take one hand off the bars helps me a lot on long rides.

So did you have to lengthen your cables and brake lines when you put on the 2" risers? I was looking at them at Rox including the anti-vibe kind but at $145 that is a bit steep. I was messing around trying to figure out how far I would need to pull back and it is closer than I thought so maybe 2" would work?

I have had a throttle lock on all my bikes and I also have a CrampBuster, I agree, those help a lot.
 
Sorry to hear about your hand issues Mr Tim - and I totally concur that getting old is not for sissies.

Pete

Thanks... You get used to it like any ailment I guess. But it also ended my golf "career." I would have loved to keep playing golf in retirement but no way with my grip. I sucked at it anyway. So now I can blow my money on my bikes.
 
Thanks... You get used to it like any ailment I guess. But it also ended my golf "career." I would have loved to keep playing golf in retirement but no way with my grip. I sucked at it anyway. So now I can blow my money on my bikes.

Yeah - when I play, they actually reverse the order of the letters in the name of the game.
 
There is a handle on the NT to help it up on the center stand. It's the passenger grab rail over the pannier. The NT hops up in the center stand quite easily IF you put your foot on the stand AND put ALL of your weight on the lever as it acts like a fulcrum.

Mike
 
Back
Top Bottom