The clutch cable on my NT700V is way too short and bending the adjuster. I see others have had this problem and switched to a cable from a Transalp. There are a couple different part numbers talked about. Can anybody give me the correct part number, or year of TransAlp? I'm thinking Part # 22870-MM9-000-UE.
Part # clutch cable
- Thread starter cliffh
- Start date
i ordered this from: https://shop.hondaparts-direct.com
I still have to install it.
used in:
Model
I still have to install it.
[TD]22870-MAB-620[/TD]
[TD]CABLE, CLUTCH - CABLE, CLUTCH[/TD]
[TD]CABLE, CLUTCH - CABLE, CLUTCH[/TD]
used in:
Model
- XL600VA (89) TRANSALP, JPN, VIN# JH2PD060-KM200001
- XL600VA (90) TRANSALP, JPN, VIN# JH2PD060-LM300001
- XL600VAC (89) TRANSALP, JPN, VIN# JH2PD061-KM200001
- XL600VAC (90) TRANSALP, JPN, VIN# JH2PD061-LM30000
Well, there is my problem
I see 4 or 5 different part numbers that folks mention. Maybe any clutch cable from any Transalp will work and is just a little longer, but I don't know. I'm hoping that someone can post a part number for a Transalp cable that works....and is just a little longer than the NT700V stock cable.
I see 4 or 5 different part numbers that folks mention. Maybe any clutch cable from any Transalp will work and is just a little longer, but I don't know. I'm hoping that someone can post a part number for a Transalp cable that works....and is just a little longer than the NT700V stock cable.
Cliff, there's one part number: 22870-MAB-620, CABLE, CLUTCH
It works on four different Transalps.
In 2012, we had a "Pre-National Rally Rally" at Reudi Reservoir near Basalt. I noticed that my clutch cable was kinked next to the ferrule at the adjuster and a couple of broken strands were sticking out through the sheath. Naturally this was on a Saturday, and I was planning to ride from where we were to my son's house in Montrose, a couple of hundred miles away through some great twisty mountain roads. I got on the computer and with help from one of the guys got the part numbers for the NT and the Transalp clutch cable, called the dealer in Montrose and they put a rush order into the Honda parts warehouse. I only used the clutch when I started and stopped and and shifted without the clutch all the way to Montrose. The NT cable got to the dealers on Tuesday morning, but the Transalp cable didn't get there till Wednesday and the dealer didn't charge me for it. That cable lasted till I traded the bike for the NT I've got now, so about 100,000 miles.
It works on four different Transalps.
In 2012, we had a "Pre-National Rally Rally" at Reudi Reservoir near Basalt. I noticed that my clutch cable was kinked next to the ferrule at the adjuster and a couple of broken strands were sticking out through the sheath. Naturally this was on a Saturday, and I was planning to ride from where we were to my son's house in Montrose, a couple of hundred miles away through some great twisty mountain roads. I got on the computer and with help from one of the guys got the part numbers for the NT and the Transalp clutch cable, called the dealer in Montrose and they put a rush order into the Honda parts warehouse. I only used the clutch when I started and stopped and and shifted without the clutch all the way to Montrose. The NT cable got to the dealers on Tuesday morning, but the Transalp cable didn't get there till Wednesday and the dealer didn't charge me for it. That cable lasted till I traded the bike for the NT I've got now, so about 100,000 miles.
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DirtFlier
Site Supporter
They only made the USA version for 2-3 yrs with minimal changes so I'd assume all of them use the same cable.
By the way, when you get around to changing it, here's what I do to make it easier. Disconnect the old cable at top and bottom. At the bottom (engine end) of the old cable, tape the top end of the Trans-Alp cable to the bottom end of the old cable, then go to the top and pull the old cable out. As it is being pulled out, it will drag the new cable into place and along the correct route!
And I do find it easier to FIRST attach the new cable end to the lever at the engine then SECOND do the handlebar end.
By the way, when you get around to changing it, here's what I do to make it easier. Disconnect the old cable at top and bottom. At the bottom (engine end) of the old cable, tape the top end of the Trans-Alp cable to the bottom end of the old cable, then go to the top and pull the old cable out. As it is being pulled out, it will drag the new cable into place and along the correct route!
And I do find it easier to FIRST attach the new cable end to the lever at the engine then SECOND do the handlebar end.
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Hi. I am looking for the clutch cable that is longer than the 2" longer Trans-alp cable, 22870-MAB-620, CABLE, CLUTCH . I thought I read somewhere here about a 4" longer cable but haven't been able to find it with SEARCH. Does anyone know if there is a 4" longer cable?
Oldtimer
Oldtimer
This is another option to lengthen the cable and reduce the effort .. and easy to install too.
Moose Racing Easy Pull Clutch System - RevZilla
An easier clutch pull reduces arm fatigue and gives you more control when fewer fingers are devoted to pulling in a stubborn lever. A crud-free, well-…
www.revzilla.com
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Great idea Sunny. I looked at the RevZilla / Moose Racing link from and ordered it from RevZilla. I'm looking forward to getting and installing it.
I'll update after I get it installed.
Oldtimer Jim
I'll update after I get it installed.
Oldtimer Jim
thanks, but credit goes to @DirtFlier who introduced it and has experience with it ...
Easy Clutch by Moose Racing... | Technical
I knew about this item a long time ago and wondered if it'd help Deb because she doesn't have a monster grip in either hand. This is really made for off-road racers/riders where constant clutching is sometimes necessary but I found the ferrule sizes were appropriate for the Honda clutch...
www.nt-owners.org
I did install the Easy Clutch System, about 2 hours and 45. Once installed it gives you about a 4 inch, increased cable length over stock. Internally it has 3 leverage positions and I set it for the lowest leverage, as the stock NT clutch lever has a pretty easy pull Just using the clutch in first gear, the clutch lever engagement position is about the same as stock. I really couldn't tell the difference right now. I haven't ridden it yet, as it has been overly cold in Tennessee for the past few weeks. Prior to purchasing I did contact Motion Pro motorcycle cables and they said they could make a custom length cable for $80 plus delivery and tax. So,
If I don't like the Easy Clutch I can always get a longer cable from them.
If I don't like the Easy Clutch I can always get a longer cable from them.
I got out for a day test ride and the Easy Clutch works great. Again, I set the leverage to the lowest setting so essentially, I can't tell the difference between having this installed and using the stock cable. My reason for installing this was to extend my clutch cable 4 inches, so I can install 2 inch bar back risers and it works fine for this.
mikesim
Site Supporter
Fieroguy
Site Supporter
In the pic, the throttle cables look plenty long enough. Looks like the brake line is stock. Maybe he was able to gain enough slack by loosening the retaining clamp on the brake line.
Coyote Chris
Site Supporter
A very interesting device. In physics, there is no free lunch. It looks like the throw of the clutch lever is increased, which is not a bad thing, espeically if you have a bike with a grabby clutch with a fine engagement zone. One wonders how much of an actual effort is reduced by the device? Be fun to try one. My VFR is hydrolic and its fine. My fJR is hydrolic and a bit of a bear. In fact, in models after 2015, they changed things and lightened up the clutch pull. But my cable operated Vstrom is a bit heavy...not much at this point for my hands....its has launch assist so I dont kill the engine but I might think about this device,,,,Need someone with a fish scale to see how well it works.An interesting and different way of extending the clutch cable.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
Before I added the EZ-clutch device, I measured clutch pull using a fairly accurate fish scale. It took 10-pounds of force to bring the lever to the grip. After the conversion, the pull was reduced to 6-pounds and I have the pivot pin in the middle position.
In the picture above the throttle cables were replaces at the same time as I added the Easy Clutch system. The cables I used were,
2009 – 2013, ST1300 Throttle Cables
17910-MCS-D90
17920-MCS-D90
In the picture the brake cable is stock, but I have since replaced it with a longer after-market one, all of this so I could install the Rox 2" pivoting bar risers. All the work is complete now and I love the more upright riding position.
2009 – 2013, ST1300 Throttle Cables
17910-MCS-D90
17920-MCS-D90
In the picture the brake cable is stock, but I have since replaced it with a longer after-market one, all of this so I could install the Rox 2" pivoting bar risers. All the work is complete now and I love the more upright riding position.