elizilla
Guest
That is all. Just posting it here for people who are looking for that info. 
Katherine, do you happen to know how much of that wattage is needed to operate the bike/charge battery, and how much is available to operate accessories? I'm assuming 452w is max output.
CoolNT
Guest
I believe it's ~300w while running but I could be way off.
One of the neat features of the Honda heated grips is that they drop out of the circuit if you're pulling more watts than you've got available. With the Denali LED lights (10W) and the Warm and Safe Jacket (90W max) the heated grip light starts flashing at me when I'm idling at 1250 rpm. As soon as I get back up to about 1500-1800 rpm, the light for the grips goes steady.
Voila! A voltage indicator!
Voila! A voltage indicator!
CoolNT
Guest
So anyone have an idea of the approximate running wattage of the NT?
OP
OP
elizilla
Guest
I do not know, sorry.
On page 214 of the Owner's Manual it lists the wattage used by various items as:
Headlight: 55w x 2
Brake/tail light: 21w/5w x 2
Turn signal lights: 21w front
21w rear
Position light: 5w
License light: 5w
All this adds up to 204 watts with brake light activiated, high beam on and turn signals on. Of course, things like the radiator fan are not listed, so I would estimate the total running wattage would be around 250 watts maximum.
--Jeff
I think you failed to add in the energy needed to run the engine. Things like fire spark plugs, fuel injectors, and engine computer.
I don't have a good number for this stuff but a lot of it varies on conditions, starting with alternator output. It puts out less at idle/low RPM. Electrical farkles are very useful but if overloaded can cause some long term issues. That said I assume the alt windings and electrics are overbuilt somewhat and unless someone knows of Honda issues from overloading you may just not be charging at lower RPM and thus robbing the battery.
Phils monitor could work pretty well but it would be nice to know before you paid for a new accessory if the NT can run it.
Brad
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
Having a real voltmeter, one that displays numbers and NOT colored dots, takes the mystery out of whether you're
running a deficit because of electrical accessories. On my previous bike (PC800) the system was only below 12+ volts
if I had my electric vest & elec gloves ON while idling at a stop with brake light and turn signals also ON. The NT has
a more powerful charging system than the PC800 (300 watts) so I'm not concerned.
running a deficit because of electrical accessories. On my previous bike (PC800) the system was only below 12+ volts
if I had my electric vest & elec gloves ON while idling at a stop with brake light and turn signals also ON. The NT has
a more powerful charging system than the PC800 (300 watts) so I'm not concerned.