Problem removing large port on the alternator cover

ken

Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Messages
147
Location
Hammond, Louisiana
Bike
2010 Red NT700
I ran into difficulty while getting ready to adjust my valves. When I attempted to remove the crank port (alternator cover) it simply would not move. I used penetrating oil, waited for it to work, used the correct size hex wrench with a 3/8 ratchet. The three previous times I've adjusted the valves I had more trouble that I would have expected, but this time it seems welded in place.

As a fine American, I decided to get a bigger wrench, so I attacked it with a 1/2 inch ratchet; still no luck. Next I used a piece of 3/4 inch water pipe as a cheater. Something moved, but it was the whole center of the cover. It didn't just round off the edges, but instead twisted out the middle, and left the hex wrench still imbedded in what was once the center of the cover. The female section where you insert the hex wrench is easily removed from the wrench, and is not in any way deformed.

Since I obviously need a new cover, I attacked it with a brand-new cold chisel, but after 20 minutes of careful pounding I'd made no progress.

I assume my next step is to remove the whole alternator cover, after draining the new oil I just put in.

Or, does anyone have a better idea.

I sure hope the valves are out of spec, but I bet they aren't.

Ken
 

junglejim

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Depends on how much is left to work with.

My solution was to grind a slot in the plug with a die grinder and a slightly worn 3" wheel. Then I inserted a large washer into the slot (it fit well) and used the washer as a screw driver bit to turn the plug out. The slot I cut did not penetrate the plug so no contaminants got into the crank case. I should add that I began by trying penetrating oil, hammer blows, and heat to free the stuck plug. The chisel didn't work for me either.

I'll see if I can find a photo to post.
 

Deleted member 540

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I had the same problem. Here is what I did.
" Used a 1/8 in drill bit and dremel to cut a slot for 1'' drag link socket and some heat from a butane torch. And got my wife to help hold/push in on socket while using a cheater bar."
 

DirtFlier

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Troy, OH
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2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
After it's all done and you're installing a new crankcase access cap, smear a little anti-seize on the threads and don't overtighten it.
 
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Jan 23, 2011
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2020 Kawasaki Versys
I had trouble with mine the first time I did valve checks. I thought the dealer cross threaded it at the 600 mile check. It turned out it was not cross threaded but I did ruin the hex in the crank cover.
Since I thought it was cross threaded I ordered a new left side (alternator) cover. After it arrived I removed the cover, set the valves and installed the new one. Then I drilled a large hole in the old hex cover, and cut slots very close to the plug threads. At that point the hex plug came right out. I probably could have removed mine using some of these other methods told here.
I still have the old cover if you are interested in it and cannot remove your hex plug. I also took a couple pictures inside the alternator cover I can post so you can see what you will be getting into if you remove it.

Good luck

Brad

PS
I use anti seize and it was still hard to remove. I probably overtighten but there seems to be something about that cover that makes it really tough to loosen.
 

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DirtFlier

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2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
[...I use anti seize and it was still hard to remove. I probably overtighten but there seems to be something about that cover that makes it really tough to loosen....Brad]


The access cap has a lot of thread area since it's such a large diameter but it's not really necessary to make it tight because the O-ring and the threads keep it from coming loose. And just as an FYI: there is almost no oil inside that cavity.
 
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Feb 5, 2011
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998
Location
Maryland
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Honda NT700V
Manual sez, "Timing hole cap 10 N-m, 7 lb-ft Apply grease to the threads"
"Crankshaft hole cap 15 N-m, 11 lb-ft Apply grease to the threads"

That's not much torque.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
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Arkansas
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2020 Kawasaki Versys
Here are pics from inside the alternator cover in case someone here needs to pull the cover. The alternator magnet is pretty strong so you need to keep hold of the outer case to keep it lined up while removing/re-installing.
And like previously mentioned there isn't much oil sitting in there with the bike on the center stand.

Brad
 

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ken

ken

Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Messages
147
Location
Hammond, Louisiana
Bike
2010 Red NT700
Thanks to all who wrote to help. Last time I had it off, I used o-ring lube and anti seize, and a torque wrench, because it was hard at to remove at 600 miles. I tried every one of your suggestions; after considerable effort I called a mechanic friend who suggested a can of Freeze Off spray, a 3 inch grinder with metal cut off blade and an assortment of various sized fender washers. Just before I exhausted every curse word I know in English, French, Spanish and German it snapped loose. There is no noticeable corrosion on the plug or the side case.

It will go back finger tight, and if it falls out, I'll be happy to buy another.

I appreciate the help, and the knowledge that others have felt my pain.

Ken
 
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