10W-40 full synthetic oil, or 10W-30 synthetic blend oil?

I have seen here that others have used 10w-40 oil although the manual specifies 10W-30. On my shelf I can choose from Mobil 1 full-synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle-specific oil, or Shell Rotella T5 synthetic blend oil, not specified as motorcycle, but neither is it stamped with Energy Conserving, or the like. Would either be more desirable than the other? How might shifting and clutch action differ between the two in use?

I haven't used Rotella in the NT...yet. It meets the standards of JSAO something or other which is good stuff for motorcycles. I'll probably use it the next time I do an oil and filter change.

I always use the spec oil and it is fully synthetic. I use Mobil 1 when possible just because it has proven itself to me over the last 30 years in my motorcycles, cars and trucks.

If you are going to use Rotella you might as well go with the T6 as it does not cost much more. I have been using T6 for years and think its your best oil for the money. T6 is JASO MA rated and is 5w-40.

Warren said:

T6 is JASO MA rated and is 5w-40.

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I checked and that's what I've got. I used it in my '99 Connies.

I have used all the Rotella's and they are all good! Even though the T5 doesn't have the official MA spec, I have been advised by the Shell answer fellers that since it is a blend of T6 and conventional (which are MA spec'ed) it meets the proper spec. I prefer the conventional Rotella since it seems to shear less in the engine than the syn version. I have a theory about this.

Mike

I use T-6 Rotella and have never had a problem. The stuff is available everywhere. I wish they made it in 5W-20 so that I could use it in my car.

I have also used the Rotella T semi synthetic in the NT with good results. Answer folks at Shell claim it is not recommended for cars with catalytic emission devices. Motorcycle Consumer News approves this T and price is one of the lowest. I suspect most on this site change there oil frequently and are paying more for the full synthetic versions.

FWIW, I do not change my oil that often, usually double the mileage specified by the mfg. If I were using semi-syn or dino oil I'd change when the mfg says to. Not a cost issue, just time for me to do it. I don't see the up side to saving pennies on oil when you use so little of it. Heck even the truck gets the good stuff and it takes 12 quarts!

I would normaly run a little past Honda's change point, about 95% of my running was long miles with little town stop & go and very little start and ride 1- 5 miles. If I were on a cross county ride I would start out with fresh oil & filter and not normaly change it until returning home. I used Honda AYN in my wing for about 100K With the NT I ran Honda GN10-30 A APWX BY Honda AND HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH EITHER. FfOR WHAT ITSWORTH I HAV VERY MOINIMAL VALVE WEAR FACTORSON THE nt NEVER OUT OF SPEC DURRING ANY INSPECTION AND SELDOM WAS >001 OUY OF DEAD CENTER. mY wING WITH SHIM BUCKETS never REQUIRED A SHIM CHANGE IN THE TIME I OWNED IT.

After all of this I do have to say, I don't think it matters what brand oil you use these days. Any synthetic will work the same as any other. There is a BIG difference between dino and synthetic, especially in the way they blend for multi-weight oils.

I do like to use at least the weights specified by the mfg. Especially in cold or short runs, use the lowest weight as gospel. 90% of engine wear occurs during start and warm up.

If you have an air cooled engine, the upper weight is important as well, especially during hot weather riding.

These days the metallurgy of the engines is so good that there is very little wear on any of the components. Unless the mfg screws up (like Guzzi recently did on cams) the engines will last for a LONG time with little wear. Heck, I had the heads off my 32yr old Guzzi two years ago and there was no perceptible wear in the cylinders at all (75k miles at that time IIRC). I could even make out some of the hone marks from the original mfg process.

since I have seen a bunch of posts using rotella t6, I got some. I did note on 5 qt bottle that has JASO DH-2, not the proper JASO MA. spent a little time trying to research JASO DH-2. looks ok. then I found this on another m/c forum

"Amazing how oil can generate so much friction in discussions" bahahaha

Woodaddict said:

since I have seen a bunch of posts using rotella t6, I got some. I did note on 5 qt bottle that has JASO DH-2, not the proper JASO MA. spent a little time trying to research JASO DH-2. looks ok. then I found this on another m/c forum

"Amazing how oil can generate so much friction in discussions" bahahaha

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My jug of T6 clearly shows JASO MA on it.

Woodaddict said:

since I have seen a bunch of posts using rotella t6, I got some. I did note on 5 qt bottle that has JASO DH-2, not the proper JASO MA. spent a little time trying to research JASO DH-2. looks ok. then I found this on another m/c forum

"Amazing how oil can generate so much friction in discussions" bahahaha

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Hmmmmmm.... all of the jugs of T6 and conventional Rotella that I have seen are all clearly marked MA. I will check at the store tomorrow. You indicated that your "5qt" bottle wasn't labeled as such but unless I'm mistaken, Rotella only comes in gallon jugs.

Mike

Mike, I purchase my T6 at Walmart and it is in 1 gal jugs. I just looked at it again and it says JASO DH-2, JASO MA

DUH for me. after the DH-2 is MA, DUH again! and another DUH, for thinking it was 5 qt, but its 1 gal. I did alert the Autozone employee that jaso ma was motorcycle specific, he has sports cars and 2 m/c so he was going to buy out the store! they did not have 10W-40, so went with 5W-40, did not want the 15W-40

Woodaddict said:

DUH for me. after the DH-2 is MA, DUH again! and another DUH, for thinking it was 5 qt, but its 1 gal. I did alert the Autozone employee that jaso ma was motorcycle specific, he has sports cars and 2 m/c so he was going to buy out the store! they did not have 10W-40, so went with 5W-40, did not want the 15W-40

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I use the 15-40 as my bike seems to "prefer" it. It is a conventional oil and is less apt to shear in the transmission. With the 5-40, I notice notchiness in the shifting after about 4K. With the 15-40 the notchiness doesn't present itself until near the end of the 8K interval.

Mike

mikesim said:

I use the 15-40 as my bike seems to "prefer" it. It is a conventional oil and is less apt to shear in the transmission. With the 5-40, I notice notchiness in the shifting after about 4K. With the 15-40 the notchiness doesn't present itself until near the end of the 8K interval.

Mike

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I am with you, Mike. I have become a convert to RotellaT 15-40. It says JASO MA on it, its $13 a gallon, and I change the bike's oil twice a year even though I only put on 4k or so miles a year. I do not make fun of anyone who wants to use a better oil. That's fine. I think all oils are so much improved that in my case, were the lion's share of the miles occur in the hot summer and early fall months, it would be hard to pick a bad name brand oil for my driving habits. Maybe I will feel guilty about not buying 10-40 Honda oil at some point and go back to it. As an aside, One thing I have proven to myself with the nt and a drop in oil temp gage and the numerical coolant temp gage on the FJR is that these bike warm up fast and warm up their oil fast. Not like the old 1970s Chevy Pickups where I had to put cardboard in front of the Radiator to get the heater to work. I dont worry about the 15-40 not flowing well. I AM easy on the bike till it warms up but that is good for any vehicle. I think the heavier oil is better for shifting. We are spoiled by quality engines with close tolerences and excellent metalurgy using excellent oils at this point in time.

I know what I'm about to say is going to rankle many - I run Walmart Super Tech 15-40 in everything I own, including the NT, except in the summer when the daytime temperature is consistently over 70 I run Super Tech 20-50 in the air cooled Yammy. I always change oil @ 3mos or 1000 to 1500 miles, whichever comes 1st. I have never had an oil related issue ever.

Changing oil on a modern street bike at 1000 miles is a little excessive but its your money and if you sleep better at night who am I to judge.