Broken Latch

Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
162
Location
Richmond, VA
I was preparing for a ride to the twisties in NC and when I opened the left bag and discovered a broken latch. I taped the box shut and went for the ride but now I have to replace the lid. The last time this happened BobAgain was kind enough to get me a replacement lid but this time I'll have to order one. Does anyone have the part number for the left lid (that's left if your sitting on the bike)? Also do the latches come with the lid or do you have to order them as well? I ask because a friend I rode with thinks he has a way to repair the old lid and I want to give him the latches from the old lid.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
630
Location
Western Washington
Bike
2010 NT700V, 2015 CB500X
If it is a standard size lid look here. I'm not sure which is red or silver. It looks like piece 9 comes with the latches.

If it is a large lid look at this site. Scroll down to the Large Pannier Lid section and you will have to hunt for the correct color. Not sure if the large lids come with latches.
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Essex, UK
Bike
Black NT700VA-8 ABS
Over this side (the about to be independent from EU side) of the pond we seem to get very few reports of problems with pannier latches or broken lids whereas in the colonies (sorry ex colony..) they seem to occur every few weeks from a much smaller number of machines. I would be surprised if we use the panniers much less (or more) on average - any suggestions as to why there is (or seems to be) a difference?
 
OP
OP
Cnille
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
162
Location
Richmond, VA
Would you believe I got a quote of $252.67 for the new lid. I think I will take it off and send it to the friend that thinks he can fix it, while I ride without a lid on that side.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
1,285
Location
Arkansas
Bike
2020 Kawasaki Versys
any suggestions as to why there is (or seems to be) a difference?
There are several reasons riders over here think their latches break, from the grease in the latch mechanisms collecting dirt and grit till they fail, to overloading the panniers, to slamming the lids. I believe my original lids (I now have the large lids on) had the latches overtightened by the factory. That cracked the plastic towers which can lead to premature failure.
I haven't experienced a real failure where I had to get the duct tape out but I'm not a fan of the design. It is pretty weak.

Brad
 

DirtFlier

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Dec 13, 2010
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3,332
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Troy, OH
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2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
[...I opened the left bag and discovered a broken latch...]

The plastic internal posts all break eventually. When the bike is new, it isn't so bad but as it ages the plastic seems to embrittle, which is probably natural for that material.
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Essex, UK
Bike
Black NT700VA-8 ABS
Understand why they fail and agree on some of the design shortcomings - query really was why the US seems to have proportionally more failures than in UK/Europe as pannier/latch discussions are relatively rare on UK/Europe forums given the greater number of bikes.
 

junglejim

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Apr 26, 2012
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2,119
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Northern WI
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Tiger 800, NT sold
Some folks don't understand that there are TWO places where they fail. One is on the lids where the catch screws to the lid. As mentioned the plastic towers that receive the screws break.

The other place is on the "body" side where the mechanism screws to the body. Same problem as the lid side.

Many owners do, as I did, and reinforce the towers on the lids with an epoxy BEFORE they break. This is easliy done in place and was a big help. But I didn't reinforce the screw towers on the body side (which requires removing the inside half of the pannier) and those eventually broke.
 

Warren

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Dec 13, 2010
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O'Fallon, MO
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2019 Yamaha XMAX
Understand why they fail and agree on some of the design shortcomings - query really was why the US seems to have proportionally more failures than in UK/Europe as pannier/latch discussions are relatively rare on UK/Europe forums given the greater number of bikes.
Could high ambient temperatures in many parts of the US be the cause ?
 

ADK Jim

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Apr 25, 2016
Messages
142
Location
FL
Bike
2010 Red NT700V
Moriniman 2011: I had been thinking of going online to one of your "over there" forums to find out how you folks solve the problem of the poorly designed lids as well. Today, I first did a condiserble amount of research on adhesives for the PC + PET plastics which the lids appear to be made from. Then, I took off one of the small metal tongue/catch pieces from the unbroken side of the lid so that I could measure the height of the plastic posts (boss) and create a new one. Wouldn't you know it, that one was cracked and came apart too as I carefully unscrewed the catch. There just doesn't seem to be enough "meat" in the area that supports the tongue/catch. One of my main reasons for purchasing this NT was that I was hooked on the aesthetics of the overall design. Little did I know the frustration of the lid problems! Anyone have any fixes for them besides the well documented addition of external hardware? Frustrated!!
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
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Location
Arkansas
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2020 Kawasaki Versys
I wonder if is a slight unknown change to the plastic mix of the USA lids/latches.
The USA didn't import many here. Only 2010 and 2011 model years. Those lids could be supplied by a different vendor to Honda or the plastic compounds changed a little and became more brittle. The USA just got lucky and got the breakable lids.
Or maybe our roads need fixing and the potholes tear them up. It has been proven you can destroy a wheel by hitting big stuff.

Anyway I'm just guessing.

Since the question is why USA lids seem to break more than others, many of us have lids sourced from the UK (big lids). Did the original USA lids break more than the UK sourced big lids? My original lid towers cracked, my UK big lids are OK (have now been reinforced), and I had a set of UK sourced small lids that were OK (never installed on my bike but used by REDNIGEL).

Brad
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Virginia
The left side front latch on my bike just failed tonight on the way home from work. Have already fixed one other latch.

I have standard latches, and am now considering installing them vs fixing the original.
 
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
11
Location
Nashville, TN
Bike
2010 Silver NT700ABS
Some folks don't understand that there are TWO places where they fail. One is on the lids where the catch screws to the lid. As mentioned the plastic towers that receive the screws break.

The other place is on the "body" side where the mechanism screws to the body. Same problem as the lid side.

Many owners do, as I did, and reinforce the towers on the lids with an epoxy BEFORE they break. This is easliy done in place and was a big help. But I didn't reinforce the screw towers on the body side (which requires removing the inside half of the pannier) and those eventually broke.
Is it practical to remove the latches without removing the covering part of the fairing?
 

DirtFlier

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Dec 13, 2010
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3,332
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Troy, OH
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2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
[...is it practical to remove the latches without removing the covering part of the fairing?..]

There are four screws that hold the latch mechanism to the inside of the rear bodywork/saddlebag inner. With the seat off the bike, you are lucky to see two of those screws and getting a screwdriver into that space would be a real challenge. Even if you could remove all four screws, getting them back in place would be impossible.

Just remove the saddlebag inner.
 

Tonydtiger1971

Guest
I wonder if is a slight unknown change to the plastic mix of the USA lids/latches.
The USA didn't import many here. Only 2010 and 2011 model years. Those lids could be supplied by a different vendor to Honda or the plastic compounds changed a little and became more brittle. The USA just got lucky and got the breakable lids.
Or maybe our roads need fixing and the potholes tear them up. It has been proven you can destroy a wheel by hitting big stuff.

Anyway I'm just guessing.

Since the question is why USA lids seem to break more than others, many of us have lids sourced from the UK (big lids). Did the original USA lids break more than the UK sourced big lids? My original lid towers cracked, my UK big lids are OK (have now been reinforced), and I had a set of UK sourced small lids that were OK (never installed on my bike but used by REDNIGEL).

Brad
So it's possible to get lids from the UK that do not break or do not break as easily? Right now I have reinforced the latches with some epoxy but it looks like the previous owner replaced many of the screws with a different type already to try and hold them on.
 

Phil Tarman

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Dec 12, 2010
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81
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Greeley, CO
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2010 Silver NT700VA (ABS)
I've compared the US stock lids to the UK big lids. AFAICT, there's no difference in construction.
 

karl

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Dec 13, 2010
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1,475
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Hampden, MA
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2010 Silver NT700VAA
My "big lids" required me to swap over the hardware other than the cords that hold them in place when they are open. They don't do well when you treat them like a 63 Chevy or a government mule. That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
 
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
180
Location
Mechanicsburg, Pa. USA
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2010 NT700V
IMG_0729.jpg
I decided to eliminate the entire latch system and installed external locking draw latches. i put them on both OEM, and large lids. Yes it was difficult to get both sets to line up and latch properly. Had to buy eight latches, all locking, keyed alike. The non-locking ones were more expensive...go figure! They are made by Southco, bought them on eBay. I use bag liners and also attached mini bungies inside the panniers to keep the pressure off the large lids.


I still can't figure out why my photos come out upside down!!!!!
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
11
Location
Nashville, TN
Bike
2010 Silver NT700ABS
[...is it practical to remove the latches without removing the covering part of the fairing?..]

There are four screws that hold the latch mechanism to the inside of the rear bodywork/saddlebag inner. With the seat off the bike, you are lucky to see two of those screws and getting a screwdriver into that space would be a real challenge. Even if you could remove all four screws, getting them back in place would be impossible.

Just remove the saddlebag inner.
This wis the answer I needed. The latch or posts were not broken, the forward latch jammed with old lubricant. Thank you.
 
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