I own a 2010 NT700VA. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this two-pin connector to burn as shown in the attached image? I have replaced the battery twice. I had to replace the regulator/rectifier twice as well and the battery still dies after 20 minutes riding. Has anyone seen or experienced this before? I hope that the attachment is successfully uploaded.
Electrical harness connector is burnt. Battery runs dead on every ride.
- Thread starter iloiloguy
- Start date
The attachment didn't load. But it sounds like you've got a serious short somewhere. I wouldn't replace the last battery until you've eliminated the short!
Like Phil said the attachment did not load so try loading again and add a description of which connector.
If a high power connector is burnt it will need repair/replacing to allow proper connection and current flow. Then you can look farther to make sure you got to the root of it.
Brad
If a high power connector is burnt it will need repair/replacing to allow proper connection and current flow. Then you can look farther to make sure you got to the root of it.
Brad
Here I go again with the attachment.
The attachment does not seem to be uploading. I'm going to sign out of nt-owners.org and try a different browser. I'm using Opera Browser now.
The attac
hment does not seem to be uploading. I'm going to sign out of nt-owners.org and try a different browser. I'm using Opera Browser now.I bought a used wire harness on ebay. I had planned to first locate and correct the electrical problem and then sever the damaged part and splice in a replacement.
Is that one of the wires from the regulator/rectifier?
If so, your stator (that produces the electricity from the running motor) may have failed as a result. If the stator has failed your battery will not charge. You can test the stator function fairly easily with a multimeter.
You will need to determine the cause of the burnt connector BEFORE replacing it or the replacement may also end up the same way.
Seagrass
If so, your stator (that produces the electricity from the running motor) may have failed as a result. If the stator has failed your battery will not charge. You can test the stator function fairly easily with a multimeter.
You will need to determine the cause of the burnt connector BEFORE replacing it or the replacement may also end up the same way.
Seagrass
One end of the connector goes to the regulator/rectifier. The burned portion of the connector is attached to the main wire harness. I checked the wiring diagram and traced the related wires on the diagram. The wire is connected to several circuits on the NT which I may need to track down one-by-one. I'll begin that process tomorrow.
mikesim
Site Supporter
You may not have a short, just a failed connector. If a connector gets slightly corroded or loose, increased resistance occurs thus generating heat which only causes more oxidation and more heat until the connector melts and finally fails. It is a self-destructive process. Just replace the connector and use di-electric grease on the connections and test the system. I believe that this particular failure is what caused Mungo Jerry to drop out the the Iron Butt ride last year. It would behoove all of us to inspect these connectors periodically "before" failure occurs on a long ride.
Mike
Mike
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
[..If a connector gets slightly corroded or loose, increased resistance occurs thus generating heat which only causes more oxidation and more heat until the connector melts and finally fails...use di-electric grease on the connectors...mikesim]
Yup, it can happen fairly often if routine maintenance is ignored. Whenever I have the tank up for a valve clearance check, I always unplug the connectors that are in sight, clean and grease them. They come from the factory with di-electric grease but it dries after a while and disappears. And I made a special effort to clean/regrease the connectors between the stator and the reg/rec.
ps. sometimes a bad ground point will cause electrical current to find another path home and it can result in damage.
Yup, it can happen fairly often if routine maintenance is ignored. Whenever I have the tank up for a valve clearance check, I always unplug the connectors that are in sight, clean and grease them. They come from the factory with di-electric grease but it dries after a while and disappears. And I made a special effort to clean/regrease the connectors between the stator and the reg/rec.
ps. sometimes a bad ground point will cause electrical current to find another path home and it can result in damage.
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That 2 pin connector has 12vdc battery volts on it regardless of key position. It also should have a rubber boot over it to prevent water & dirt from getting in it since it is always on. I also see your NT has some additional wiring that I suspect is connected to the battery. If your battery is getting drained and the regulators DC end connector is burning up you might want to disconnect all the extra loads until the problem is sorted out.
Man! We have some knowledgable folks on this forum! Impressive!
Don't we though! I'm always impressed with the breadth and depth of knowledge members can share.
I hope that you're right about your suspicion of poor connection and resistance, Mike. That would be music to my ears. I may try that tomorrow. My only worry about that is if the problem is elsewhere and I end up burning the connector again.
Those extra wires go to some new additions that I have been adding which have never been connected to the electrical system. The wires go to a digital volt/ammeter and to a 12V socket. Both are located in the left pocket. They are not connected yet.
If you are worried about ruining your new connector during testing your could use temporary connections until you get it sorted out. Maybe some run of the mill crimp on spade connectors from hardware store.
Also for final testing you will need a good battery that will take and hold a charge so the regulator can be tested properly.
Brad
Also for final testing you will need a good battery that will take and hold a charge so the regulator can be tested properly.
Brad
Your tip about using a temporary connector is good advice. I'll do that. As for the battery, I have two Lithium Iron batteries and a iMax B6AC battery charger. Whenever I ride my motorcycle anywhere, I take both batteries with me, fully charged, of course.
mikesim
Site Supporter
I wouldn't worry about that. Replace the connector, be sure to apply dielectric grease and retest. Betcha you will be OK.
Mike
It was a pain getting to the burned connector. I had to remove the top box mount, the rear cover and undo the left saddlebag (or pannier as the Brits call it) just to gain good access to the connector. I removed the terminals from both ends of the connector, cleaned them, scraped them with a small wire brush and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. I bent the female end of the connector so that it will grip the male end firmly. Then, I applied a small amount of dielectric grease and made the connections. I started the engine and measured the voltage drop across the burned connector. The voltage measured 0.009 Volts with the engine running. With engine off, it measures 0.004 Volts. I took a picture of the fix that I'm using for now. I'm going to ride it like this for a while to see if the problem has been abated. Unfortunately, while I was in there, I noticed that my tail light assembly is broken. This happened last summer when someone tried to steal my top box. The top box was ripped apart on the bottom. I bought a new (smaller and cheaper) top box last fall. I thought that the damage was limited to the top box, but I discovered damage to the tail light assembly today. I ordered a new one for $77. Once the tail light assembly arrives, I'll put everything back together and try it out. 
mikesim
Site Supporter
What was the voltage reading at the battery after your fix? That should tell you if the charging system is OK. Ooooooo.... I see Scotch Locks on your wiring.... naughty... naughty ;^)It was a pain getting to the burned connector. I had to remove the top box mount, the rear cover and undo the left saddlebag (or pannier as the Brits call it) just to gain good access to the connector. I removed the terminals from both ends of the connector, cleaned them, scraped them with a small wire brush and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. I bent the female end of the connector so that it will grip the male end firmly. Then, I applied a small amount of dielectric grease and made the connections. I started the engine and measured the voltage drop across the burned connector. The voltage measured 0.009 Volts with the engine running. With engine off, it measures 0.004 Volts. I took a picture of the fix that I'm using for now. I'm going to ride it like this for a while to see if the problem has been abated. Unfortunately, while I was in there, I noticed that my tail light assembly is broken. This happened last summer when someone tried to steal my top box. The top box was ripped apart on the bottom. I bought a new (smaller and cheaper) top box last fall. I thought that the damage was limited to the top box, but I discovered damage to the tail light assembly today. I ordered a new one for $77. Once the tail light assembly arrives, I'll put everything back together and try it out.
Mike
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