Coyote Chris
Site Supporter
Here we go. I would especially enjoy hearing from those that took there Nt appart and measured their oil pump chain slack.
Installing a new crank sensor. I am not going to post pics as I am mad at the internet but I would be glad to email this document to you with imbedded pics.
Getting the ole 19 trouble code? You are just $50 and seven hours away from success! Only I am going to save you some of that time….lots of that time. You will also need a tube of Hondabond HT and a Husky 12mm flat wratchet. Or equivalent. Trust me on this. If you don’t know what a flat wratchet is, google it.
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/-QQAAOSwEHpZNzoL/s-l225.jpg
And of course your manual.
1. Follow the book at first to get off the right side cover/clutch cover where the sensor lives. Drain oil, remove right hand mid-cowl (doesn’t that sound easy?) Remove the mufflers. Hint: When trying to get the mufflers off the headers, support the end of the muffler with a jack and tap the muffler flanges where they slide onto the headers. Use a hammer and piece of hardwood and work your way around both flanges, tapping them to the rear. Mark the intersection of the flange with the header with a magic marker so you can check your progress. Another hint. You never know how the Japanese connectors work. Use a small flat bladed screw driver and press here and prod there and you will get the O2 sensor connector off of its flange and get it apart. Same for the turn signal connector and crank angle sensor connector. Be careful and take your time. Never force anything. Take your time. Observe the connectors first and then gently act.
2. Now, we are going to deviate from the book and save you a bunch of time and aggravation. On my bike, I didn’t need to remove the front header. It came down below the right side case cover, which we are trying to get off. But if you had to loosen them on your bike, they are easy to get to. At first, it looks like it is almost impossible to remove the rear header nuts. What I did after an hour of aggravation and questioning the parentage of Honda engineers was this.
You want to lift the tank up just as if you are doing the valves and keep it up with a bungee. Take out a few bolts out of the left mid-cowl and of course remove the pocket. Then remove the plastic cover over the rear cylinder. Take out the 2 ea 10 mm head bolts that hold the coil and move it out of the way. Voila! You can now get a Husky flat wratchet, 12 mm head, on the left rear header nut. I took it off as my hands are small so I can reach down there (a headlamp is your friend here)and put it back on. But you may not have to take it off all the way. Now go around to the right side and put the same flat wratchet on the right header nut and loosen it but don’t remove it. The rear header now has pleanty of flop to allow access to the clutch cover/right crankcase cover.
Warning: Before removing the side cover, examine the external clutch mechanism and the free play down there and at your lever, and where the lifter arm is in relation to the case. When I put my cover back on, there was too much freeplay. Good thing I had only re-installed 4 bolts as I didn’t understand the Honda instructions in the manual for positioning the “lifter piece” onto the lifter arm on page 11-20. I took the four bolts out, pulled the cover, looked gravely at the lifter piece and arm relationship, put the suckers back , said a prayer, and now the freeplay was perfect.
Back to our story. There is a flange you can tap tap tap on to drive the cover to the right and free it up. You can feel it low on the bottom. Once you have taken the cover off, you can see how the lifter piece fits into the arm. You can also see how much chain freeplay there is on the oil pump drive and driven gears. Mine was more than I would like at ½ in. But to replace the chain, you must replace both gears and chain as a set and that also means taking the clutch out, which according to Honda means two special tools.
Remove and Replace the sensor by:
A. Carefully examining how the wiring harness was installed by the factory on the bike exterior of the engine and inside the engine.
B. removing two bolts, remove the old sensor, and install the new sensor. Torque to about 10 ft lbs. Try and duplicate how the harness was run in the engine and through the grommet holes.
C. You can, if you wish, at this time, put the case cover back without Hondabond HT and see if you have positioned the lifter piece correctly. You only have to install about four bolts. Check the free play and actuate the clutch.
D. Now, take the case cover off, clean the surfaces of the two mating halves and put on the Hondabond HT. I did not get meticulas as far as the cleaning, but do what works for you.
E. Install the cover and put in four bolts and check the freeplay of the clutch and its operation. If everything is as it should be, you are golden. If not, take the thing apart and try and figure out what went wrong with the lifter piece. Use cross torque in two steps and I used 9 ft/lbs.
F: Route the pigtail from the sensor, put its keeper on its stud, and plug it in. Since I am paranoid, I tightened the header nuts, put the oil back in, and fired it up for two seconds. You will get a most deliciaous sound and a check engine light as the O2 sensor isn’t plugged in. Turn the bike off, and take out the oil so the Hondabond HT can cure for a few hours…..
Now, since you have taken careful notes and labled every nut and bolt, just reverse install everything. Don’t forget to install the muffler ABOVE the centerstand and not UNDERNEITH the center stand. Don’t ask me how I know this. Hint. When putting the muffler onto the headers, take a rubber mallet and tap tap tap the front side of each header while supporting the muffler. Work slowly and watch your progress on each header. When the rear muffler mounting holes align, stick a screwdriver in the holes to keep the muffler there while you tight and install hardware.
After an hour of putting back the header nuts, coil bolts, muffler, and all that plastic, put the oil back and fire it up, unless you want the Hondabond to cure longer. Go to church and ask forgiveness for all the things you said about your NT and its engineers.
Installing a new crank sensor. I am not going to post pics as I am mad at the internet but I would be glad to email this document to you with imbedded pics.
Getting the ole 19 trouble code? You are just $50 and seven hours away from success! Only I am going to save you some of that time….lots of that time. You will also need a tube of Hondabond HT and a Husky 12mm flat wratchet. Or equivalent. Trust me on this. If you don’t know what a flat wratchet is, google it.
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/-QQAAOSwEHpZNzoL/s-l225.jpg
And of course your manual.
1. Follow the book at first to get off the right side cover/clutch cover where the sensor lives. Drain oil, remove right hand mid-cowl (doesn’t that sound easy?) Remove the mufflers. Hint: When trying to get the mufflers off the headers, support the end of the muffler with a jack and tap the muffler flanges where they slide onto the headers. Use a hammer and piece of hardwood and work your way around both flanges, tapping them to the rear. Mark the intersection of the flange with the header with a magic marker so you can check your progress. Another hint. You never know how the Japanese connectors work. Use a small flat bladed screw driver and press here and prod there and you will get the O2 sensor connector off of its flange and get it apart. Same for the turn signal connector and crank angle sensor connector. Be careful and take your time. Never force anything. Take your time. Observe the connectors first and then gently act.
2. Now, we are going to deviate from the book and save you a bunch of time and aggravation. On my bike, I didn’t need to remove the front header. It came down below the right side case cover, which we are trying to get off. But if you had to loosen them on your bike, they are easy to get to. At first, it looks like it is almost impossible to remove the rear header nuts. What I did after an hour of aggravation and questioning the parentage of Honda engineers was this.
You want to lift the tank up just as if you are doing the valves and keep it up with a bungee. Take out a few bolts out of the left mid-cowl and of course remove the pocket. Then remove the plastic cover over the rear cylinder. Take out the 2 ea 10 mm head bolts that hold the coil and move it out of the way. Voila! You can now get a Husky flat wratchet, 12 mm head, on the left rear header nut. I took it off as my hands are small so I can reach down there (a headlamp is your friend here)and put it back on. But you may not have to take it off all the way. Now go around to the right side and put the same flat wratchet on the right header nut and loosen it but don’t remove it. The rear header now has pleanty of flop to allow access to the clutch cover/right crankcase cover.
Warning: Before removing the side cover, examine the external clutch mechanism and the free play down there and at your lever, and where the lifter arm is in relation to the case. When I put my cover back on, there was too much freeplay. Good thing I had only re-installed 4 bolts as I didn’t understand the Honda instructions in the manual for positioning the “lifter piece” onto the lifter arm on page 11-20. I took the four bolts out, pulled the cover, looked gravely at the lifter piece and arm relationship, put the suckers back , said a prayer, and now the freeplay was perfect.
Back to our story. There is a flange you can tap tap tap on to drive the cover to the right and free it up. You can feel it low on the bottom. Once you have taken the cover off, you can see how the lifter piece fits into the arm. You can also see how much chain freeplay there is on the oil pump drive and driven gears. Mine was more than I would like at ½ in. But to replace the chain, you must replace both gears and chain as a set and that also means taking the clutch out, which according to Honda means two special tools.
Remove and Replace the sensor by:
A. Carefully examining how the wiring harness was installed by the factory on the bike exterior of the engine and inside the engine.
B. removing two bolts, remove the old sensor, and install the new sensor. Torque to about 10 ft lbs. Try and duplicate how the harness was run in the engine and through the grommet holes.
C. You can, if you wish, at this time, put the case cover back without Hondabond HT and see if you have positioned the lifter piece correctly. You only have to install about four bolts. Check the free play and actuate the clutch.
D. Now, take the case cover off, clean the surfaces of the two mating halves and put on the Hondabond HT. I did not get meticulas as far as the cleaning, but do what works for you.
E. Install the cover and put in four bolts and check the freeplay of the clutch and its operation. If everything is as it should be, you are golden. If not, take the thing apart and try and figure out what went wrong with the lifter piece. Use cross torque in two steps and I used 9 ft/lbs.
F: Route the pigtail from the sensor, put its keeper on its stud, and plug it in. Since I am paranoid, I tightened the header nuts, put the oil back in, and fired it up for two seconds. You will get a most deliciaous sound and a check engine light as the O2 sensor isn’t plugged in. Turn the bike off, and take out the oil so the Hondabond HT can cure for a few hours…..
Now, since you have taken careful notes and labled every nut and bolt, just reverse install everything. Don’t forget to install the muffler ABOVE the centerstand and not UNDERNEITH the center stand. Don’t ask me how I know this. Hint. When putting the muffler onto the headers, take a rubber mallet and tap tap tap the front side of each header while supporting the muffler. Work slowly and watch your progress on each header. When the rear muffler mounting holes align, stick a screwdriver in the holes to keep the muffler there while you tight and install hardware.
After an hour of putting back the header nuts, coil bolts, muffler, and all that plastic, put the oil back and fire it up, unless you want the Hondabond to cure longer. Go to church and ask forgiveness for all the things you said about your NT and its engineers.
The crank position sensor weighs almost nothing so it's not going to come loose.