Cutting out

Hi guys, wondered if anyone out there can help with experiences of a similar problem to this.
My NT700 lives an easy life but every once in a while it starts cutting out on me. It did it a few months ago but the problem went away however yesterday it started to do it again.

I went out on a dry, 16C/60F, day and the engine temp was fine.
After about 40 mins @70 mph as I rolled off the throttle for a roundabout I found the engine had cut out and I had to use the bikes speed to effectively ‘bump start’ it on the move!
This was also accompanied by a 'surging' of the power on a steady throttle. (Presumably as the problem cut in and out).
Not very good for the ‘twisties’ coming up!
At a standstill revving the engine would keep it going (to leave a junction for example) but I look like a boy racer!
Anyway after 20 miles of this the problem just went away - as it has done previously.
Does this ring any bells with anyone?

It feels like a fuel blockage, however the bike has only done 7,000 miles and I use the same fuel in three other vehicles with no issues.
Last time I had this problem I ran lots of injector cleaner through the system (but the problem may have resolved itself the anyway)

Thinking it could be an electrical issue I have also put on new NGK plug caps and checked every wiring harness plug and socket I can find. But basically everything under the plastic looks in ‘factory’ condition.

I am now thinking it could be a sensor failing intermittently. But which one???
The FI light has not come on and I have checked for any hidden codes (as described in the Haynes manual) but there are none.
Can Honda do a more in depth probe of the system to find more recorded faults?

Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated

Steve P

My first thought was the spark plug caps but as you have replaced them it is not likely that they are the cause.

Could be the spark plugs perhaps.

Seagrass

I don't have an answer but I will offer a bit of advice to the group in general. Whenever I have to plastic off, such as when adjusting valves, I take the time to disconnect elec connectors, spray with contact cleaner, blow dry with an air hose, then fill the pinholes in the female side of the connector with dielectric grease.

The connectors are greased at the factory but that stuff eventually dries, leaving the metal contact vulnerable to corrosion, and most of our bikes left the factory 7-8 years ago!

Check the battery and the terminal connections.
My NT is fine but a newer (and an electrical problem prone) NC700 had the same problem.
The dealer replaced the battery.

Air/vacuum leaks. My NT engine went thru a period of surging and bucking dangerously at anywhere from 30 to 60 mph. This all happened a few months after a hard drop. I was also getting intermittent MAP sensor codes, MIL blink 1, but in didn't always coincide with the surging. Decided to do the valve check as it would give me an opportunity to to look at many possible fault.

I never found the fault with 100% certainty but I did find:
- rear cylinder spark plug looked more fouled than front cylinder spark plug. Replaced both.
- AIT (inlet air temp) sensor wiring was very tight at the sensor. Loosening the wiring path.
- Rear cylinder throttle body insulator (rubber fitting between throttle body and engine head) didn't feel fully seated and tight. There was possibly some evidence of air leak into head. Cleaned and reseated tightly.
- Possibly MAP sensor connector wasn't snapped fully in place.

That was 4 years and 20,000 miles ago and no problems since. Still not 100% of the cause, most likely the throttle body insulator.