Rottela T6

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Walmart had Rottela T6 on sale yesterday for $19.22 a gallon. Thought that was a pretty good price and want to get the word out.
Ride safe and arrive alive.
 
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The Walmart close to work did not have the T6 or T4 on the shelves. I got the T5 Synthetic Blend instead for about $16. Things cost a little more out here in Cali...

 

mikesim

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As a point of info, Wal-Mart prices are not consistent in all markets. They base their pricing on their local market where the store is located. Same goes for Sam's Clubs. I suspect all large retailers use this pricing philosophy. Inventoried items are not consistent as well.

Mike
 

mikesim

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If you look closely at the label of T5 it does not have the JASO MA designation. I spoke with the Rotel a product manger at our conference yesterday and he advised that T5 is a 50/50 blend of T4 and T6. Shell did not want to go to the time and expense of MA certification. Just for everyones FYI.
 
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This subject has been debated numerous times on just a many forums. The "MA" rating is the Japanese JASO standard is not use on oils produced domestically. Here in the US, we use several rating standards, one of which is the dual letter rating system such as "SJ" on the seal in the back label of the oil bottle. The proceeding letters such as SM meets the previos requirements of the preceeding rating.

Oil_Figure1.jpg

You want to stay away from anything that has friction reduces or has the word "Energy Conservation" on the lower half of the outer ring.

Oil_Figure2.jpg

In the NT700V's owner manual regarding oil types to use, it clearly states SG or higher except oils labels as energy conservation on the API service label. Therefore any oil that meets these requires can be used, conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend.
 
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If I am lucky I do 2 oil changes a year, many years only one (5K interval). On my BMW I use BMW oil, NT I use Honda. I do NOT get in OIL arguments about how much better some oil is better. In fact I take my Fords to the dealer (every 5 oil change is free), and they use Ford oil. I might use Honda tires if they made them for the NT, etc. I can not remember having any oil cause a failure on anything I own. I think all oils do what they are intended to do, just use oil designed for wet clutches on machines with one. The change is the requirement, brand my only matter in your mind, but what ever makes you happy
 

mikesim

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This subject has been debated numerous times on just a many forums. The "MA" rating is the Japanese JASO standard is not use on oils produced domestically. Here in the US, we use several rating standards, one of which is the dual letter rating system such as "SJ" on the seal in the back label of the oil bottle. The proceeding letters such as SM meets the previos requirements of the preceeding rating.

Oil_Figure1.jpg

You want to stay away from anything that has friction reduces or has the word "Energy Conservation" on the lower half of the outer ring.

Oil_Figure2.jpg

In the NT700V's owner manual regarding oil types to use, it clearly states SG or higher except oils labels as energy conservation on the API service label. Therefore any oil that meets these requires can be used, conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend.
Lots of domestically produced oils carry the JASO MA spec. The presence of the API designator "Energy Conserving" simply means that the oil has friction modifiers as additives, i.e. molybdenum, etc. and those friction modifiers play hell with wet clutches. The JASO MA designation simply means that the oil in question is safe to use in wet clutch applications.

Mike
 
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The automotive fluids constantly change and improve as time goes on but it does add confusion with the choices available.
SM is OK but not SM energy conserving. Coolants are the same story. They used to be all pretty much the same makeup but now not all are created equal.
I bought a new lawn mower late last year and spent way too much time deciding what oil to put in it. The dealer had warned me of the importance of the correct oil to use in it but the mower came with an engine manual and a mower manual. Both books had oil types/change intervals in them but naturally did not match each other. Another talk with the dealer. I'm now ready for mowing season when winter ends. Rotella is going in it after break in.

Brad
 
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Most of the Shell Rotella oils are Diesel oils rated with CJ-4, CK-4, etc... These are comparable to the SM, SN and etc API ratings.

I have been running both the "White" and "Blue" Bottles of Rotella before they started using the "T#" rating system for close to 20 years now. It is good oil and I never had issues with it. It is economically priced and can be bought in the gallon size.

I found this webpage with oil rating timeline graphics. Perhaps these will help with the oil debate.




 

Coyote Chris

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This subject has been debated numerous times on just a many forums. The "MA" rating is the Japanese JASO standard is not use on oils produced domestically.
In the NT700V's owner manual regarding oil types to use, it clearly states SG or higher except oils labels as energy conservation on the API service label. Therefore any oil that meets these requires can be used, conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend.
Ref: JASO standard not used on domestic oils.....Not sure of your meaning, but my Shell Rotella T4 is clearly marked Jaso MA/MA2. My NT manual clearly says Honda GN-4 or equivelant, SG or higher, JASO T903 standard MA.
Here is a description of what the lettering means:
https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php
People may argue till the cows come home about conventional, synthetic or blend in their NTs, and even vicosity for different uses, but the JASO MA is an absolute.
I agree with Miairhead about oil failure. With the advent of water cooling and superior oils, sludge buildup and oil breakdown are relics from the last century as long as any reasonable change interval is followed.
 

mikesim

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To further muddy the water the text chart that Brillot supplied is for diesel oils. The API designation for diesel oils begins with a "C" for compression ignition while the API designator for gasoline engines begins with an "S" for spark ignition. The earlier gas specs SA, SB and SC were originally ML MM MS which stood for motor Light duty, motor Medium duty and motor Severe duty. This M designation was abandoned in the 60's for the current "S" designation. Now, since we are in a global market, it appears that we will be doing away with the API specs altogether and in their place use the ILSAC spec which is used internationally. As a final insult, some manufacturers, notably GM and VW have their own unique spec which much be adhered to. The latest GM iteration is called DEXOS.

Mike
 

Mellow

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Wow.. you guys are bored!...

I know this because I've been reading all this... lol
 

RedLdr1

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As a final insult, some manufacturers, notably GM and VW have their own unique spec which much be adhered to. The latest GM iteration is called DEXOS.
At least you can get Mobil 1 that is DEXOS1 approved. I run it in my wife's Impala...
 
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It about time we put this to bed and stop beating a dead horse.

:beatdeadhorse:

The groundwork has been laid for many to make their own informed decisions regarding this subject.

 

Mellow

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We don't do that here, if someone wants to discuss oil, we let them.. we don't tar and feather them out of town like some other forums.
 

junglejim

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We don't do that here, if someone wants to discuss oil, we let them.. we don't tar and feather them out of town like some other forums.
Ya, and when we are done with this we can talk about saddles, spark plugs, windscreens, and tires. There is a lot more winter to get through here and we have to do something to avoid cabin fever.
 
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