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Thread: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

  1. #71
    wphillips007's Avatar
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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    JoeT, I did buy Andy's bike and it is one sweet machine. I put over 26,000 miles on it last year. If you come to either Pigeon Forge or Spearfish I will be there and you can check out the lights for your self. I've since added turn signal lights on the bar right beside the Denali's (my mantra is that you can't have enough lights). However, Phil's position for the lights down low has a lot going for it also. Wendell


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  2. #72

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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    Thanks for your advice, Phil. I have considered the fender mounts. I noticed from your pics that you have wind deflectors...do they really help? Joe

  3. #73
    Moderator Phil Tarman's Avatar
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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    The wind deflectors work very well. I don't know how much of the cost (they're overpriced for the amount of material and labor that went into making them) reflects wind tunnel work. But they do a great job of deflecting wind and even rain.
    Phil Tarman
    Greeley, CO
    NT700VA 2010 SN #0079 -- "Dudley" -- 115,000+ Miles
    IBA # 5811: SS1000(X3), BB1500, BBG
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    Read about the "Epic Ride" at: www.ptarman1.com


  4. #74

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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    Quote Originally Posted by Rmcapozzi View Post
    At the rear of the bike almost under the bracket that locks the seat down, there is a small space covered by a door on the floor of the tail section. In that space are three connectors. A 2 pin connector, a DCT connector, and a 6 pin connector. I haven't studied the wiring schematic yet, but my guess is that 6 pin connector houses the run/turn brake and license plate lights and possibly the turn signals also. If I'm right (still need to verify) I intend in making a Plug n' Play 6 pin connector pigtail to fit between the OEM 6pin connectors. From there I can make a harness that will split off the brake signal (for a brake modulator) and an ignition switched power source (for the relay on my fuse panel's switched circuits).

    Using this method requires no alteration of the OEM harness although it will take a bit longer than just tapping an existing wire. The MTW .110 connectors can be found in numerous supply locations. I get mine from Electrical Connections and Eastern Beaver. It is helpful to have the right crimping tool to make a harness with these connectors. The little cubby looks to have plenty of space for an additional connector.

    (*Edited*) After reviewing the wiring diagram, the 6 pin connector (only 5 of the pins are used) actually feeds the brake/running lights and the rear turn signals. The small 2 pin connector runs the license plate light.
    Fantastic! Just what I've been looking for . . . really don't like cutting into a perfectly good harness with tapcons. I assume you're going to create a short harness that allow you to split off switched power . . . like the heated grips. My question now is - did you resort to tapcons on this harness or did you crimp an add'l in one of the connectors? Also, what kind of crimping tool is desired?

  5. #75

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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    Quote Originally Posted by Orangebob View Post
    Fantastic! Just what I've been looking for . . . really don't like cutting into a perfectly good harness with tapcons. I assume you're going to create a short harness that allow you to split off switched power . . . like the heated grips. My question now is - did you resort to tapcons on this harness or did you crimp an add'l in one of the connectors? Also, what kind of crimping tool is desired?
    I built a plug and play hareness to feed the relay for switched power off my auxiliary fuse panel. He is the link that describes how I did it. http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/show...-Panel-Install

    I would not use the tail light circuit to power your heated grips. That should be powered by a dedicated circuit. The tail light circuit is perfect to feed the switch relay of a circuit to make the circuit a switched power source.

    i use a crimper from Eastern Beaver for the small pin plugs. It works well.
    --Rob

    2010 Honda NT700VA --- 2009 Honda GL18BM-TE --- 1989 Honda CB-1

  6. #76

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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    Thanks so much! I found your post very informative. I probably shouldn't have used heated grips as an example as they were already installed by a previous owner and use the appropriate Honda accessory harness. Specifically, I need the switched power for my GPS & the switch for LED Denali DM's. I suspect that either the running lights or license plate light would be adequate for that. If I opt to connect between the OEM 5-pin connectors via an inserted harness, I could use the running lights for switched power and the stop lights for Hyper Lites later. Your thoughts?

    As an aside, I saw what was referred to above as a DCT connector . . . it looks like a dead-ended half a connection. Purpose? Also, do you know what the gauge of the wires in the above 5-pin connector are? Thanks in advance for your help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rmcapozzi View Post
    I built a plug and play hareness to feed the relay for switched power off my auxiliary fuse panel. He is the link that describes how I did it. http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/show...-Panel-Install

    I would not use the tail light circuit to power your heated grips. That should be powered by a dedicated circuit. The tail light circuit is perfect to feed the switch relay of a circuit to make the circuit a switched power source.

    i use a crimper from Eastern Beaver for the small pin plugs. It works well.

  7. #77

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    Re: Installing Denali LED Driving Lights

    I would only use the tail light or license plate light line to power the relay switch. DO NOT use these lines to actually power the device. Instead, use a relay. Run line power from the battery to the relay and use the license or tail light circuit to energize the relay when you switch the bike on. It is good practice to isolate accesory devices from existing load circuits. This allows you to build a circuit robust enough to safely handle the accesory without impeeding the normal operation of the OEM circuit.

    my solution was to install a fuse panel. The fuse panel is powered straight off the battery via a 30amp line. I have both switched and unswitched circuits in that fuse panel. The switched circuits have the relay energized by the tail light circuit.

    I think much of the wire used in the OEM harness is about 20g or 22g. I think my 30 amp line is 10g. I typically use 12g wire for most of my custom harenesses.

    check out Eastern Beaver's PC-8 fuse panel. If you are looking for felatively modest power needs, the Fuzeblock is a nice product. It is simple to wire and allows you to easily pick between switched and unswitched circuits just by the positioning of the fuses. Either way, power the panel from the battery and use the License or tail light circuit to energize the panel's relay.

    The DCT is a diagnstic port for trouble shooting check engine messages. I would not tap that circuit for any accesory power. Leave that one alone.

    Good luck!


    Quote Originally Posted by Orangebob View Post
    Thanks so much! I found your post very informative. I probably shouldn't have used heated grips as an example as they were already installed by a previous owner and use the appropriate Honda accessory harness. Specifically, I need the switched power for my GPS & the switch for LED Denali DM's. I suspect that either the running lights or license plate light would be adequate for that. If I opt to connect between the OEM 5-pin connectors via an inserted harness, I could use the running lights for switched power and the stop lights for Hyper Lites later. Your thoughts?

    As an aside, I saw what was referred to above as a DCT connector . . . it looks like a dead-ended half a connection. Purpose? Also, do you know what the gauge of the wires in the above 5-pin connector are? Thanks in advance for your help.

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