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Thread: Honda OEM undercowl tips

  1. #41
    nyst100's Avatar
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    Jun 2012
    camden, NY
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    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    I wonder if David Silver spares is still importing them. I checked the box on their website weeks ago to be notified when they got more in from England, But have heard nothing. I'd like to add one to my 2010.

  2. #42
    Moderator Phil Tarman's Avatar
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    Dec 2010
    Greeley, CO
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    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    Contact them and ask. I know that their stocking plan in the US is based on filling a shipping container in the UK. When I ordered a big lid from them it took about 3 months to get it. That wasn't much of an issue for me, since I had other lids I could use.
    Phil Tarman
    Greeley, CO
    NT700VA 2010 SN #0079 -- "Dudley" -- 125,000+ Miles
    IBA # 5811: SS1000(X3), BB1500, BBG
    2013 Four Corners Tour Finisher # 70
    Read about the "Epic Ride" at:

  3. #43
    Miairhead's Avatar
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    Aug 2013
    Otsego, MI
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    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    By the way I made a bracket to hold the Mick-O, was great to have both on trip I just finished. Simple C-channel I used the Lower bracket as pattern and would nicely.
    I used a 3" by 1.5" tube stock to make the bracket, only tools where drill press, metal cutting saw, and grinder to clean up and shape to be cleaner looking.
    If you can order Micks with out the fat solid bracket, do so and make your own for use.
    Old Man with too little time and too much to ride

  4. #44

    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Lori View Post
    I just finished installing my undercowl. Here's a few tips to help save you some time and aggravation:

    Tools you will need: rubbing alcohol for cleaning brackets; 10mm box end wrench; 4mm and 5mm standard (angled) Allen wrenches--if you have T-handled ones, grab them, too; flatblade screwdriver; Dremel tool or drill with a small bit for drilling pilot holes; 12.5mm drill bit and a 1/2" drill for it; spare set of hands, if possible.

    I thought the little bit of adhesive they had on the rubber pieces that mount on the bracket pieces was pretty anemic, so, thinking I was smarter than they were, I went through the trouble of putting 3M outdoor double-sided tape on them. Wasn't necessary. There's probably enough on there to hold it together until they're mounted because then it gets squeezed between the bracket and the frame.

    Make sure when you mount the right bracket that the thick piece of wiring that runs on the back side of the frame is out of the way. I fought for over a half hour to get it clamped down, and as soon as I did, I noticed that they weren't flush like the other side, and then I saw the wire. So I tore it back apart, put it together right, and, gee, it only took about five minutes.

    Before threading the main bracket, put the silver flanges in the big holes on the sides of the engine housing first. Then thread the main bracket from the exhaust pipe (right) side first. The hoses on the left side are flexible so it works better that way. The bracket should be oriented so the rubber piece you mounted on it hugs the engine housing. Make sure the mounting holes on the sides are oriented correctly (left side horizontal, right side vertical).

    The fairing halves are assembled with three plastic bolts and nuts. Take your time getting them lined up before tightening them all the way to make sure they're flush and not off-kilter. A regular flatblade screwdriver is a little long, but the tiny one is a little short. Either way, they're kind of a pain to work with.

    I think Honda may have changed the mounting system since some of you put your undercowls on. They now have Allen bolts and what they call "wellnuts" to attach the cowl itself. A wellnut is sort of a rubber grommet with brass threads; it goes through the mounting holes with the flat side to the outside/top and the brass end inside/bottom. It goes in first, then the Tupperware goes next, and lastly the bolt to the outside. They're pretty handy; I have them on my bicycle fairing.

    When dry-fitting the undercowl, attach the side bolts first, and then the top ones. The sides are easier to get to and secure, thus making it more stable for messing with the top ones. That spare set of hands is a plus here because the cowl is really flexy.

    Now for the fun part: drilling the holes in the original fairing. Definitely make a pilot hole first; a white-out pen works great for marking the red paint. We (make that my best friend who has a degree in technical theater and is WAAAY better with tools than I am) used a Dremel type tool. Next, have lunch. Then drive all over creation finding a 12.5mm drill bit--no, that's not a typo; it's written on the instructions. You're not merely drilling a small hole for the bolt; you're drilling one for the wellnut to slide into. Menards doesn't carry them, so I doubt that the other chain home improvement stores will either. Fortunately, we have a specialty tool shop five minutes from home and they had one. Cost: $8.47. However, you need a 1/2" drill to fit it, not the 3/8" drill that most normal homeowners have. What was Honda THINKING?!?!? So if you don't want to spend 100 bucks on a drill, then you have to find a friend or neighbor who is a mechanic or tradesman of some sort and borrow his. I'd also highly recommend having said friend or neighbor drill the holes for you because he'll be way better at it than you are. It's a huge hole in a thin piece of fiberglass and it would be easy to cause damage behind the Tupperware if you're not careful. You can get away with not removing the cowl pieces if you hold them out of the way while your neighbor drills the holes. Failing that, you'd probably have to find a tool rental place who will rent one to you for an hour. The directions illustrate how to wrap a stop around the drill bit to keep it from going in too far, so good luck with that. And you'll probably have to take the cowl back off if your spare set of hands had to get back to her family, so get that ready before you go to the tool rental place so you don't waste your rental time doing it when you get back.

    The finished product looks nice and it's really not hard to do. It's just incredibly aggravating and annoying at times. Hopefully this will make your install go smoother!
    Mine just came in... NO instructions. Thank you for these!!
    2010 NT700VA #135 - Jake II, 2007 ST1300A - STella, 2006 ST1300A Double Dark - Dark & STormy
    IBA# 55373 All lower 48 states completed 7/11/15 (in one ride)

  5. #45

    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    Have 11 pages of original Honda instructions for fitting the undercowl if you need them - but will need to scan them in first. Let me know if needed. They may even be available on line somewhere as I cannot remember if mine came as part of the kit or if I downloaded them.

  6. #46

    Re: Honda OEM undercowl tips

    I'll take 'em!

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