Dad-gummed Pannier Latches!!!!

Phil Tarman

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Late yesterday, as the retirement festivities were winding down, I decided to make a quick run to the hospital to visit a dear friend who has been one of the greatest supporters and helpers I've ever been privileged to work with. She was there because of pneumonia, and was (no pun intended) sick that she hadn't been able to be there for my retirement.

I got something out of the right pannier and then it took me nearly 20 minutes to get the lid latched.

So today, when I took the bike to Sun Honda for the last service and a major checkover before the Epic Ride, I told them to see what they could do with the pannier latch. Rich, my wrench of the day (who impressed me as much as Nic, my usual wrench has impressed me) called me to come out take a look.

We fiddled with the latch for the right bag for nearly 30 minutes and finally got it working. But we also decided to order a new latch mechanism and I'm going to emulate my friend, the ingenious Jim Moore and put latch release knobs and rods on the bike. Rich agreed that that would be a good solution.

So, Jim if you're reading this, be on the lookout for a PM asking for more details on your latch rod farkle. :)
 

junglejim

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I bought the parts to add "jmoore's" modification. I just didn't do it yet. Maybe I'll have to get motivated by another latch failure. My only latch failure was on the day I bought my NT.

I bought brass rods which are threaded on the ends which are made to be toilet tank float arms. I was able to buy plastic knobs that screw onto the brass rods. Small hose clamps can attach the brass rods to the latch rods. I'm considering using aluminum rods instead when/if I ever get around to actually doing the job. I don't have time - I'm RETIRED!
 
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When you complete this project could you post it with pics for others to see?
Thanks, Clint
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Richard, if the pannier lock was unlocked, I think the rods will work fine. I've got two keys sawed off and epoxied them into oil-can lids, one for the pannier lock, the other for the fairing pocket. That's been one of my better small farkles, thanks to Chuck Henderson (chucksklrst on the Forum).


I bought brass rods which are threaded on the ends which are made to be toilet tank float arms. I was able to buy plastic knobs that screw onto the brass rods. Small hose clamps can attach the brass rods to the latch rods. I'm considering using aluminum rods instead when/if I ever get around to actually doing the job
I hadn't thought about using toilet tank float rods -- I can always cover them with black heat shrink. I'd been wondering where I'd find threaded rods.

And I'M RETIRED TOO and rapidly running out of time. :)
 
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Just to confirm what Phil said, the pannier lock must be unlocked for the pushrods to work. Since you can't remove the key when the pannier lock is in the unlocked position, it must be there. My seat is off, so I went out to the garage and verified the operation.
 

U20417

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Phil, George,

Thanks for helping me understand. I just wanted to make sure if the panniers were locked that nobody could just walk up and push a rode and them pop open. I keep my laptop, cell, CPAP and other expensive hard to replace items in the panniers. Just wanted to make sure they were still locked up.

Thanks,
Richard
 

DirtFlier

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I believe that a lot of the ills of the lids are caused by 1) grit on the latching mechanism, and 2) the latching mechanism coming loose on its plastic mounts.
If the mounts (they are raised posts) are OK and the screws still fit tightly, merely removing the latching mechanism and giving it a thorough cleaning then spraying with some light lube such as silicone spray does wonders. I've found that cleaning usually requires dipping the entire piece into a small tub with solvent or mineral spirits as using a spray cleaner doesn't get into all the crevises.

The plastic mounts (4 on each side) take a bit more work once damaged. The mounts are shaped like a little tower, broad at the bottom and narrow at the top to fit into the latching mechanism. The screws only thread-in about 3/4" and you can damage the mounts by overtightening them. I repaired one of the mounts on the left side and all four on the right side, by using 5 mm studs which were threaded deeply into the mounts then epoxy'd into place. I used self-locking nuts so never have to worry about them coming loose again. The cost in parts bought at the hardware store was very small but the task took many hours.

From my early days when the lids becoming stuck was a problem, I started to carry a long rod that I can use to free the mechanism by going through one of the half moon cutouts in the plastic side cover.
 
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One thing I have noticed is that these lids do NOT like to be slammed shut. The paniers are very air tight and the pressure keeps them from closing without excessive force. Sort of like an old VW Beetle with the windows up (OK I'm dating myself). Press them closed. If they won't close, look for the obstruction, there will be one, a strap, a bit of fabric, a bulge in the contents, something.

It is the one one thing I thought of as "Un-Honda-like" when shopping for bikes.
 
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That's what I liked about having the auxiliary latches. There was no pressure at all on the stock latches any more.

But, I had the stock ones for almost 3 years and they never gave me any trouble. And I overstuffed the cases on a regular basis. I think the key was to 'press' them shut, all the time. Even it if took me leaning hard against the lid with my knee, pressed into place they latched fine. If they were stubborn at unlatching I also pressed on the lid to 'unload' the latches.

But, I live where there is no rain :) Grit all over. But, I only lubed the latches once in those three years (with a dry graphite lube).

The latch issue is the one quality of engineering problem I saw on the NT. Horrible design and the engineer responsible should have been fired. But, Honda engineering staff is no known for getting the best solution out the door, only an 'approved' solution. And once implemented they never admit they were wrong. (yes, I had to work with them as a supplier, horrible experience).
 
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One thing I have noticed is that these lids do NOT like to be slammed shut. The paniers are very air tight and the pressure keeps them from closing without excessive force. Sort of like an old VW Beetle with the windows up (OK I'm dating myself). Press them closed. If they won't close, look for the obstruction, there will be one, a strap, a bit of fabric, a bulge in the contents, something.

It is the one one thing I thought of as "Un-Honda-like" when shopping for bikes.
Thanks for showing me the "Chuck500 Slow Squeeze" pannier closing method. Works at lot better than my hit or miss slam'n technique.
 
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Berea, Ohio
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I have a latch issue on a 2010 NT which I just purchased. The right side bag seems to have the forward most end no longer solidly attached. Whether something (plastic?) broke or what I'm not certain. I am still able to latch it completely by using a hit of the heel of my hand, the rear one seems to latch just fine. I'm guessing the previous owner had some kind of issue and forced that latch at some point. I feel that I'm actually doing the same thing and won't be able to do it for long. Anyone have a similar issue or repair for this??! I really can't see in there well and don't see any way for this end of the mechanism to be mounted to the plastic. There appears to be a flange on the mechanism with a screw hole in it, but I don't see a corrresponding place (tower?) for a screw to be attached to the plastic. It may be broken off. I'm thinking of drilling small hole(s) in the plastic and twisting some stainless wire to more solidly "mount" the rear most end of the mechanism. Could be a waste of time however and not as permanent as I'd like. The only other fix I see would be replacing the entire right side pannier itself ... eeek! Any help is appreciated!
 
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U20417

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Just to make sure we understand the exact problem. Are you talking about the metal U-plate that attaches to the pannier lid with two screws, or are you talking about the actual locking mechanize that is attached inside under the rear hand rails?
 
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My OEM latches haven't died, but I am trying to be pro-active. If I have a problem on the road I want to have "plan B" ready. The bottom hinges seem to be solid enough and so far, I haven't had any reason to worry about them. Wendell
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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The hinges may be a failure point. But I've loaded my bags pretty heavily and never had a hinge issue. The latch issue is an issue. I will write more on this next week. I think Charlie's latch system is a good idea.

Turns out there is an issue with a spacer on the inside part of the pannier (not the lid) that is broken on my right side bag. My dealer agrees that it's a design/manufacturing issue and is ordering an new inside pannier. But I may be getting latches like Charlies (hopefully after the Epic Ride.
 
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The integrated pannier set was one of the big selling points for me with this bike, but the trouble most of us seem to have with actual use may force me onto another bike if it continues to be an issue with mine.
The next one will NOT have any integrated packs for sure, the cost of adding them would be unfortunate, but an investment in quality luggage is not a bad thing.

I really feel Honda failed in their design and build quality on the panniers and latches.
 

jackgermain

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Phil -- Like you I have the extended warranty and I also have the road side service. Has the dealership taken care of this problem for you under warranty ?? Just looking at what my future may hold and want to check with someone who has already been there and done that. Thanks -- Jack
 
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