Still more valve adjustment notes

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I'm on my third week as an NT owner (and member of this forum). I could go on about first impressions of the bike, but lets just say I'm getting happier as the miles accumulate. For me its the Goldilocks bike (not too big, not too small.)

The forum posts have been of great help for farkle suggestions, and for walking through some initial procedures. Kudos to the guy who did the videos on removing the upper plastic pieces.

The valve adjustment procedure is so well covered in this thread that I almost don't want to post another one. Still, I just finished the job and noticed a few things I don't think I'd seen written up.

First, I found that the rear cylinder valve cover can be removed and the valves checked/adjusted without removing the throttle bodies. Just take off the air cleaner body per instructions posted elsewhere, pop off the rear cover plastic shield, take off the breather hose to the rear cover, and then remove the rear cylinder valve cover. So I set the crank to "RT", checked I was on the compression stroke (all rockers loose) and completed the rear cylinder valves first. I reinstalled the rear cyl cover before I even started to mess with the throttle bodies and the front cyl valves. By doing this, once I popped the throttle body assembly off from the intake boots, I just set the assembly back on the rear cover, just enough to get them out of the way to do the front cylinder, rather than lifting them up on the frame rail as one poster suggested. Also, this way you don't have to worry about inadvertently dropping something into the rear cylinder area as you work on the throttle bodies etc.

Many posters report have difficulty loosening the clamp that secures the right throttle body to the rubber intake boot. Here is one more arrow in that quiver: I found that by taking the upper bolt off the coolant reservoir tank and rotating the tank upwards a bit, I was able to thread a longer phillips screwdriver under the side frame member from the side of the bike and reach the clamp screw. You need a longer phillips (#3) and/or one with a narrow handle. Actually works even better if you have a long Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver. (The JIS pattern is much less likely to "cam out" from the screw compared to the US pattern.) Even so, the driver will not be square on the screw and its best not to use this to initially loosen the screw. Point is, once the screw on the clamp is a bit loose, you can further loosen (and later retighten) the screw quickly this way.

One other thought not on the subject of valve adjustments. I have been paying attention to the problem some owners have with the pannier latches. I realize most involve latches that fail to secure, but I was troubled by one poster who described a problem with the latches failing to open, and thus preventing the seat from being removed. This would be a PITB on a trip. I am looking at the seat mechanism, and I wonder if a plastic cable tie might be secured around the latch mechanism, perhaps held on the latch with a smaller cable tie, and then have the plastic "tail" of the cable tie run out to the side of the bike. Perhaps a small slot could be cut in the side plastic under the seat, so the cable tie end emerges as a small, unobtrusive tab just under the seat. In an emergency, you could use pliers to grasp the tab, pull, and release the seat. I may give this a try and report on results.
 

junglejim

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Good info.
You obviously have some wrenching experience.

You may have read on this forum that some of us have just unbolted the seat latch so that the seat can be removed if the pannier dosen't open. I just used a tie-wrap to keep it from rattleing.
 
Joined
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Leesburg, Virginia
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2010 Silver NT700
Good suggestions. I normally completely remove the throttle body from the bike just to get them out of the way. I place a towel in/over the intakes to keep things from falling down them. :smile:

I have found that a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4"x3/8" adapter to a 3/8" drive 8mm socket provides the right amount of reach to that boot clamp on the right. Makes loosing/tightening it real easy now.

For the panniers, to keep the stress level down, put pressure in on the lids while you pull the lever. This relieves the pressure on the latches and should help keep them from breaking.

The same goes for closing the lids. Never slam them. Carefully and slowly press the lids shut making sure to align the latches so that they catch simultaneously.
 

DirtFlier

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[...I have found that a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4"x3/8" adapter to a 3/8" drive 8mm socket...Makes loosing/tightening it real easy now..."

With the ratchet head pressed tightly against the coolant hoses, it's really hard to tell if anything is happening. I solved it completely by making a longer 5 mm bolt with 25 mm spacer so the bolt head is visible when looking straight down from the throttle bodies. On a related matter, the older Hondas had a spacer between the ends of the clamp to prevent overtightening but it wasn't done to the DV so I made my own. I believe that dimension is 12.5 mm.
 
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to prevent overtightening
I think it would be very easy to overtighten these clamps, esp using a small ratchet with bit. With the pressure on the hoses it is hard to judge how tight they are and a visual check is not that easy either.
My next time in I may look at a mod for better access. I like the sound of the long screwdriver by the coolant tank.

Brad
 

DirtFlier

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[...it would be very easy to overtighten these clamps, esp using a small ratchet with bit....]

Using a normal screwdriver makes it a lot easier but such access is difficult for the right clamp so the spacer makes it automatic. Having a ratchet handle, even 1/4" drive, provides a long lever arm making it too easy to overtighten that clamp. When I used a ratchet to loosen/tighen that screw, I had absolutely no feel for what I was doing.

Making the spacers is not something that justifies all the work getting to the throttle bodies, so best done when they have to be removed such as during valve adjustment. My local True Value Hardware Store has a small rack with metal tubing in many different sizes in alum and brass with those materials probably intended for hobbyists.
 

Coyote Chris

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Thanks! I will try that on Monday when I do my valves for the first time...and put your notes in with mine....

I'm on my third week as an NT owner (and member of this forum). I could go on about first impressions of the bike, but lets just say I'm getting happier as the miles accumulate. For me its the Goldilocks bike (not too big, not too small.)

The forum posts have been of great help for farkle suggestions, and for walking through some initial procedures. Kudos to the guy who did the videos on removing the upper plastic pieces.

The valve adjustment procedure is so well covered in this thread that I almost don't want to post another one. Still, I just finished the job and noticed a few things I don't think I'd seen written up.

First, I found that the rear cylinder valve cover can be removed and the valves checked/adjusted without removing the throttle bodies. Just take off the air cleaner body per instructions posted elsewhere, pop off the rear cover plastic shield, take off the breather hose to the rear cover, and then remove the rear cylinder valve cover. So I set the crank to "RT", checked I was on the compression stroke (all rockers loose) and completed the rear cylinder valves first. I reinstalled the rear cyl cover before I even started to mess with the throttle bodies and the front cyl valves. By doing this, once I popped the throttle body assembly off from the intake boots, I just set the assembly back on the rear cover, just enough to get them out of the way to do the front cylinder, rather than lifting them up on the frame rail as one poster suggested. Also, this way you don't have to worry about inadvertently dropping something into the rear cylinder area as you work on the throttle bodies etc.

Many posters report have difficulty loosening the clamp that secures the right throttle body to the rubber intake boot. Here is one more arrow in that quiver: I found that by taking the upper bolt off the coolant reservoir tank and rotating the tank upwards a bit, I was able to thread a longer phillips screwdriver under the side frame member from the side of the bike and reach the clamp screw. You need a longer phillips (#3) and/or one with a narrow handle. Actually works even better if you have a long Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver. (The JIS pattern is much less likely to "cam out" from the screw compared to the US pattern.) Even so, the driver will not be square on the screw and its best not to use this to initially loosen the screw. Point is, once the screw on the clamp is a bit loose, you can further loosen (and later retighten) the screw quickly this way.

One other thought not on the subject of valve adjustments. I have been paying attention to the problem some owners have with the pannier latches. I realize most involve latches that fail to secure, but I was troubled by one poster who described a problem with the latches failing to open, and thus preventing the seat from being removed. This would be a PITB on a trip. I am looking at the seat mechanism, and I wonder if a plastic cable tie might be secured around the latch mechanism, perhaps held on the latch with a smaller cable tie, and then have the plastic "tail" of the cable tie run out to the side of the bike. Perhaps a small slot could be cut in the side plastic under the seat, so the cable tie end emerges as a small, unobtrusive tab just under the seat. In an emergency, you could use pliers to grasp the tab, pull, and release the seat. I may give this a try and report on results.
 

Coyote Chris

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10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
The more I read this, the better I like it. If someone has a diameter of the existing clamp or the boot, I would appreciate it. I want to put one together in advance of my next check while I have time this winter...
An interesting adaptation of DirtFlyer's idea might be to come up with a thumbscrew long bolt with a spacer. No sockets or wrenches needed and you get a good feel for the torque.

.
[...I have found that a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4"x3/8" adapter to a 3/8" drive 8mm socket...Makes loosing/tightening it real easy now..."

With the ratchet head pressed tightly against the coolant hoses, it's really hard to tell if anything is happening. I solved it completely by making a longer 5 mm bolt with 25 mm spacer so the bolt head is visible when looking straight down from the throttle bodies. On a related matter, the older Hondas had a spacer between the ends of the clamp to prevent overtightening but it wasn't done to the DV so I made my own. I believe that dimension is 12.5 mm.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
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2010 NT700V, 2015 CB500X
I've checked the valves twice and still don't understand the fuss over the front cylinder throttle body clamp. I remove the right middle cowl and unbolt the coolant overflow reservoir. It's a nearly straight shot, however long, at the clamp. I haven't reversed the band clamp or rotated it. Nothing high tech, or need to modify anything.

Here is what I use after I play with it get the best configuration of extensions:

IMAG0231.jpg

1/4" driver, a combination of 1/4" drive extensions, I might use a swivel, and a 8mm socket. Don't believe it's getting over torqued, just watch the band as it's tightened.
 

Coyote Chris

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Dan, I am missing something here....I looked for your straight shot after unbolting the coolant tank and couldn't see it....I must have missed it...next time you have the bike apart, please post a pic of your tool on the nut....I am going shopping for a clamp with a long screw and a spacer and try that next time.
(I have now ordered the clamp assy ($6) and will go screw and spacer shopping for the replacement for the 5x32 screw.)
chris
I've checked the valves twice and still don't understand the fuss over the front cylinder throttle body clamp. I remove the right middle cowl and unbolt the coolant overflow reservoir. It's a nearly straight shot, however long, at the clamp. I haven't reversed the band clamp or rotated it. Nothing high tech, or need to modify anything.

Here is what I use after I play with it get the best configuration of extensions:

IMAG0231.jpg

1/4" driver, a combination of 1/4" drive extensions, I might use a swivel, and a 8mm socket. Don't believe it's getting over torqued, just watch the band as it's tightened.
 
Last edited:

U20417

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2010 Silver NT700V
I've checked the valves twice and still don't understand the fuss over the front cylinder throttle body clamp. I remove the right middle cowl and unbolt the coolant overflow reservoir. It's a nearly straight shot, however long, at the clamp. I haven't reversed the band clamp or rotated it. Nothing high tech, or need to modify anything.

Here is what I use after I play with it get the best configuration of extensions:

IMAG0231.jpg

1/4" driver, a combination of 1/4" drive extensions, I might use a swivel, and a 8mm socket. Don't believe it's getting over torqued, just watch the band as it's tightened.
Dan, did you buy the bike new, or did you get it pre-owned? The reason I ask is that if you are getting to the clamp from the right side then I think someone has already flipped your clamp before you did your first valve adjustment.
 
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Dan, did you buy the bike new, or did you get it pre-owned? The reason I ask is that if you are getting to the clamp from the right side then I think someone has already flipped your clamp before you did your first valve adjustment.
Yep, it's pre-owned & I'm unsure if the 600 mile valve checks were done. I access the front throttle body insulator clamp from the right & I'm unsure if that is original or has been flipped. From the pictures and write ups in other threads about valve checks I thought access from the right was was the original set up. Regardless, it's easy the way it now and I plan to leave that way.
 
Joined
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Dan, I am missing something here....I looked for your straight shot after unbolting the coolant tank and couldn't see it....I must have missed it...next time you have the bike apart, please post a pic of your tool on the nut....
OK, here it is. As expected not much to see. It's a 1/4 drive extension, 6" (maybe 8"), with a 8mm socket on the end. Extension splits the coolant hoses and sensor wiring.

IMAG0241.jpgIMAG0242.jpgIMAG0244.jpg
 
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I use a long Philips screwdriver to get to the clamp screw. that is exactly what I do. I rmove the coolant tank and access the clamp with a long Philips. Much easier than a ratchet.
 

Coyote Chris

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Well, to each his/her own. I have a nice small ratchet set and I am gonna adjust the bolt head position so that I will have that baby loose in seven seconds if I take my time....:)

I use a long Philips screwdriver to get to the clamp screw. that is exactly what I do. I rmove the coolant tank and access the clamp with a long Philips. Much easier than a ratchet.
 

dillsfarm

Guest
Hi, Thats some good findings, As we all do these things, better ways show up, Thanks, I have my NT on the stand now and am just strting to do the valves, I have just under 10K. I have always had dual purpose or thumpers, so getting the plastic off is more unnerveing than the mech adjustments,
 

skiper

Guest
Dills - the hardest part in removing , for me , was the instrument cover - it is actually very flexible and forgiving, can pry with small screwdriver. Getting plastics back on - be careful with cables , somehow mine got on wrong side of plastics and became time consuming and difficult. Drawings / pictures / cardboard to hold screws-pins and patience _ then all will return as planned .. good luck
 

skiper

Guest
I also like removing the coolant tank and using a long tool between the rubber hoses. Used 1/4 drive and phillips bit , next time will use my new super long screw driver. hey, while watching vids of Japanese bike mechanics, i noticed they often come in from far side of the bike with very long extensions and screwdrivers. So when loosening the rear exhaust bolt ( the one which someone said was ill designed ) i tried from opposite side with long extension and vvwualla.. simple . Maybe some seeming oddities are not odd at all .. Asian saws often cut on the opposite stroke - so we must remember the origin.. :) good luck to all .. and as Red Skel"e"ton often said - may God bless
 
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