My self inflicted valve ajustment

Coyote Chris

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(I will be editing this and adding to it as well as adding a bunch of pics but I wanted to put down a few thoughts before they disappeared)
The pics are up!!!!!
http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/CoyoteChris303/library/NT valves?sort=3&page=1

1. Take the tank off. Just do it. Sure, you can do the job with it just pointed up...you can also sleep in a bathroom stall....but its not a good idea. I did buy a spare high pressure hose keeper and rubber cover...but didn't use them. You will at the end of the day know all about Honda High pressure connectors and how simple they are...you will also see corrosion on the tank pivot bolt and maybe find out that the keeper part of the pivot bolt nut is hardened and rotted away like I did. I had to put in a lock washer. (If the gas line keeper stays with the tank when you take off the hose per the manual, just remove it and put it back into the connector.) One more thing...nothing sprayed out when I took the hose off....but I did cover it with a baggie and a zip tie as there aint no filter downstream of that point.

2. NoVa Chris was dead on about doing the rear cylinder right after pulling the air cleaner housing. Do it first and then replace the valve cover and then pull the throttle bodies....then you just have to move them back a little bit to do the front cylinder.

3. The worst part of this job is the PITA front hose clamp for the throttle body...Using Katherine's idea of a right angle ratcheting screw driver, I made an extension of the proper length and got the puppy loose. You will see in the upcoming pics what I did and how I repositioned the clamp 90 degrees anti clockwise so I could install it easier....unfortunately, this blocked the throttle linkage for the last 30 degrees of throttle movement. I went back to the original clamp position....there is probabley more than one position that will work with whatever tools you are using...I can now use a 1/4 in drive 8mm socket and a small adjustable ratchet. But it aint easy.

4. Buy sparkplugs first as the manual states they should be changed at 8 k. I don't think they need to be but who am I? Don't forget to make sure you have the upgraded spark plug caps. I have a pair floating around here that I bought and when I put in my new plugs I will change them out. Katherine posted some nice pics of the upgraded caps with the ribs.
http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?850-Engine-rough-idling-when-stopped&highlight=service+bulletin

5. Taking off the plastic is a breeze after watching the videos...I had the seat, tank rubber, mid cowl covers, and pockets out in 8 min. 37 seconds after laying out all the tools...

6. My tank was full so I syphoned half a tank out before I started...I was going to do the job with the tank tilted up...but when I saw how easy the thing came off, I just took it off....have a strong LED flashlight and a head lamp isn't a bad idea also.

7. The air snorkels have screws that are attached to the snorkel so you don't have to worry about loosing them or using a magnetic screw stick on them. The Monkey that set my valves at West side Honda at 800 miles (if it wasn't a paper check)
overtighten one and I had a bad time getting one of these screws loose.

8. All intake valves at 9400 miles were still .006. One exhaust was .006-.007 and one was .008 plus. I readjusted these two. I would not be afraid to go to 10k on the interval.

More Later....
 
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7. The air snorkels have screws that are attached to the snorkel so you don't have to worry about loosing them or using a magnetic screw stick on them. The Monkey that set my valves at West side Honda at 800 miles (if it wasn't a paper check)
overtighten one and I had a bad time getting one of these screws loose.


Had the same thing happen on my ST1300 the first time. Thought as you did that the factory over tighten them. ....... No it is the heating and cooling cycles that cause this. The screws and the head are dissimilar metals and they will stick. Use some anti seize on the threads when you replace the screws Solved my problem with myST1300. No more stuck snorkel screw in over 100000 miles. Also if possible use tha Japanese type Philips head screwdriver on those screws (not sure what it is called)
 

MrSinator

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That's a clean motor. Wish mine looked like that, lol.
 
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That's a clean motor. Wish mine looked like that, lol.

It's only got 9K miles on it. You should see the layer of filth on mine after 49K and Alaska and the Northwest Territories. I'll bet Phil's is ugly, too. Ride em or polish em.
 

DirtFlier

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[..I wonder what size the snorkel screws are?...]


They are 5 mm screws but are special because of the flange head and extra deep (15 mm), unthreaded shoulder that goes through the plastic. Although they are captive in the snorkels, they can be removed by giving them a gentle tap and doing the same with the new screw from the other side. Yes, I buggered-up one a long time ago by using a normal Phillips at a slight angle!
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
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Spokane
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10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
I think I rode in the rain once in 9,400 miles and through a few costruction zones....but so far, no big dirt buildup UP TOP. Lower crank case is a different thing....
It's only got 9K miles on it. You should see the layer of filth on mine after 49K and Alaska and the Northwest Territories. I'll bet Phil's is ugly, too. Ride em or polish em.
 
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