Extended valve check intervals...EPIC intervals

This is an open letter to Phil instead of a PM, because I am sure many folks will be interested in Phil's experience the last 25,000 miles.
So Phil; I know you had your valves checked right before The Epic Ride and your mechanic told you not to sweat the 21,000 plus miles you were about to accrue.

Since you got home, have you had your valves checked?

If so, how did they fare?

If not, what do you think?

Please share

Clay

last had mine checked at 31,241 miles. now have 67,800 miles. will be getting them checked soon, sometime in february. not worried about wear, from others reports and my last one and one before they will be fine. had 26,409 miles between the 31,241 and 4,832 and were in spec at that time, but they moved them to middle tolerance. no problem with performance. Honda has to specify 8,000 miles between for a check as they tested or determined this as the spec. for a cautionary timeline is better written in manual, but is way optimistic for checking. I will report my dealer findings when I get them done

David, I did have them checked after the Epic Ride and they were fine. I'll probably go to at least 20K inspection intervals from now on but I'll keep changing the oil and filter at about 8,000 miles.

In the latest issue of one of my motorcycle rags (either Rider or Motorcyclist) someone asked their Tech Editor guy about checking the valves on a Concours 1400. He said that there were so many things that could go wrong in the process that after the first check on a C-14, he just "pretended" that they had hydraulic valve adjusters -- it sounded like he was recommending that approach. I'm not quite there with the NT...yet.

I'm feeling better about having skipped the 16K and more confident about skipping the 24K when it comes up

You pay your money and take your chances. I just as soon do the checks as the book calls for them. And I do them my self as I don't trust the run of the mill motorcycle shop to be 1. accurate or 2. truthful. And if my bike gets broke, I want the fun/enjoyment of breaking it. A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far way, I learned to pay attention to the valve clearances on VWs. Saw too many burnt valves and ruined cylinder heads from broken valve stems because the exhaust valves were too tight.:smile:

PS I had to adjust the two exhaust valves on Cylinder one on my NT this past 24k mile check. They were a bit too tight.

I'm planning on letting you teach me how to do the valve check, but I don't know if I'lll do them every 8K miles.

I am in Chucks camp. Do them myself because of the trust issue with run of the mill MC mechanics, that and now the Honda dealer in Glenwood Springs is gone. The first time you do the valve inspect and adjust can be frustrating, the more you do it the easier it is. I will probably do my valve inspections once a year as I do not get more than the 8K (and if it went to 10 or 11K I still would go once a year). I have done my valves 3 times and every time at least one exhaust valve needed minor tweaking.

I do it myself as the book calls for it minus 2 t0 500 miles. No problem so far. valves have been OK.

I would do it myself, but the tupperware scares me to death. I'm afraid I would do irreparable damage just trying to get a look at the engine

I used to adjust the valves on CAT 3208s, but that was just a matter of getting the valve covers off...not disassembling the entire vehicle

The tupperware removal is very straight forward. The key is knowing how the panels are attached so you know where to lift/pry. And of course this isn't obvious until you have the panels off. Fortunately, several folks on this forum have posted pictures on removing the panels. I even have a few videos on it that might help you out.
Part 1:
[video=youtube;NceKuOCee84]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NceKuOCee84[/video]

Part 2:
[video=youtube;UPQaBGWlYD4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPQaBGWlYD4[/video]

See! Not hard at all!

RedNigel said:

I would do it myself, but the tupperware scares me to death. I'm afraid I would do irreparable damage just trying to get a look at the engine

I used to adjust the valves on CAT 3208s, but that was just a matter of getting the valve covers off...not disassembling the entire vehicle

Click to expand...

If you live where they have "winter," it makes it the perfect time to check the valve clearances. With no rush, just take your time and be careful with the plastic. The only part that is always difficult to remove are the fairing pockets because of how slots have to fit into tabs and one area secured by hook & loop. The rest of it is simple....at least for me.

RedNigel said:

I would do it myself, but the tupperware scares me to death. I'm afraid I would do irreparable damage just trying to get a look at the engine

I used to adjust the valves on CAT 3208s, but that was just a matter of getting the valve covers off...not disassembling the entire vehicle

Click to expand...

If you want to bring it up here I will teach/show you how do do the job.

Chucksklrst said:

If you want to bring it up here I will teach/show you how do do the job.

Click to expand...

Chuck
If it wasn't 800 miles I would take you up on that. I would have to give up vacation time to do it though, and I'd rather use that time riding

Chucksklrst said:

I learned to pay attention to the valve clearances on VWs. Saw too many burnt valves and ruined cylinder heads from broken valve stems because the exhaust valves were too tight.:smile:

Click to expand...

As a kid I learned what little I know about engines working in a Mobil gas station that did "foreign car repair", i.e. VW Beetles. On the shelf behind the cash register the owner displayed a VW piston with the exhaust valve stem sticking almost straight up, out of the crown of the piston. So it had dropped into the cylinder, bounced around for while, inverted, and ended up stuck in the crown. The guy drove it in for service.

MaggieMan said:

As a kid I learned what little I know about engines working in a Mobil gas station that did "foreign car repair", i.e. VW Beetles. On the shelf behind the cash register the owner displayed a VW piston with the exhaust valve stem sticking almost straight up, out of the crown of the piston. So it had dropped into the cylinder, bounced around for while, inverted, and ended up stuck in the crown. The guy drove it in for service.

Click to expand...

You can't do that with the newer engines. My friend runs a TDI repair shop, and a bent valve or a worn camshaft can quickly turn into a blown head with no oil anywhere above road level.

The pre-91 Ford Escorts would bounce valves off cylinders if a timing belt broke. I guess that got expensive enough that it go Ford's attention. I had a 92 Escort and one of the questions I got an answer to before I bought it was: What happens when a timing belt breaks. On the post '91s, the answer was, "Nothing. It just stops."

That is what happens with a zero clearance motor such as the ST1300 or the ST1100. If the timing chain/belt breaks or the engine jumps time or the tech puts cams in wrong then the valves will ht the piston and major repairs ensue. I am nor sure if the NT motor is a zero clearance motor or not. I suspect it is. Most motorcycle engines are.

Years and Years ago (when I was real poor, 1981) I had a Pinto station wagon (1974 model). The wife was driving it with two small children in the car. Traversing through one of the most busy intersections here in Aurora, the engine just quit and the car came to a stop in the middle of the intersection. It would not start again. Nobody could understand why until I got the car home and took off the timing belt cover. Broken belt. Changed the timing belt in about an hour and made sure all timing was aligned correctly. Started right up. Lasted another 40k miles until we sold the car. Fortunately that car did NOT have a zero clearance motor, because I had a Zero money wallet at the time. Total cost of that repair was 20 bucks.

OK, for those wanting to learn on epic intervals on valve checks. Just got mine checked on 3-2-2014. Intake spec is .005 - .007. Two intakes were in spec, two were at .008. Exhaust spec .007 - .009. Three were in spec, one was .010. Miles between valve check intervals is 37,786 miles, that was from 31,241 to 69,027 miles. To look at my previous valve check look at post #2

Woodaddict said:

OK, for those wanting to learn on epic intervals on valve checks. Just got mine checked on 3-2-2014. Intake spec is .005 - .007. Two intakes were in spec, two were at .008. Exhaust spec .007 - .009. Three were in spec, one was .010. Miles between valve check intervals is 37,786 miles, that was from 31,241 to 69,027 miles. To look at my previous valve check look at post #2

Click to expand...

Interesting. Better loose than too tight, and they weren't even very loose. I sure won't be checking mine at 8K any more. Thanks for sharing.

I bought mine 2 weeks ago with 21 miles on it. It sat since 2010 and has no oil leaks etc. It runs just perfect. I asked the Honda Tech if they adjust the valves at 600 miles and he told me they check them but VERY Rarely do they need adjustment. If I changed the oil myself...what's the point in spending 3-400 bucks so they can tear off the plastic and throttle bodies only to put it back together. I know what a valve out of adjustment sounds like and this puppy just purrs....I know peace of mind is worth something but really...Advise.