Ticking after valve adjustment.

Joined
Jul 26, 2012
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13
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
Hi everyone. I finally got around to adjusting the valves on my NT. Thanks to all of you who contributed to the great write ups on how to perform this service. Also took the time to change out antifreeze. With that being said I waited till 3800 miles to perform the first check. I found all the valves to be tight. I adjusted them all to spec. Now I have a "ticking sound which is driving me nuts. I went back in to check everything a second time and all the valves were in spec.

I tried researching the forum and I found only one individual mention the ticking after adjusting their valves. To those that would ask yes I was at TDC for both pistons and there was "play" in both rocker arms. So my question is anyone here have the same results with noisy valves after adjusting them? Other than that it fires right up. I have not ridden it yet in fear of damaging something. The throttle response seems snappier than it did before. I would appreciate any wisdom from anyone who would like to chime in. Thanks Tom.

I happened to look at my previous posts and someone asked where in NY I was located. Upstate in Cobleskill 35 miles southwest of Albany.
 
Joined
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Ruedi Reservoir, Basalt, Colorado
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2010 red NT 700, 1985 Kaw
Most screw adjusting valves will tick a little. Seeing that all your vavles were tight that ticking tends to go away. Quiet valves (tight) will do damage if ran long enough. If the ticking is not loud I would say that maybe you are hearing a "normal" tick that you did not hear before when the valves were tight. Light ticking is normal and should not be damaging like tight valves.
Hope that helps.
 

Bear

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2010 NT-700 V Red
Mine tick a little--slightly louder when I first start. When the bike is warmed up things quiet down a little. I haven't found the ticking abnormal. I would certainly prefer looser valves than tight ones. Both my Norton and Triumph (Old ones) had noisy valves, which was quite normal.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
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Western Washington
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2010 NT700V, 2015 CB500X
I found all the valves to be tight.
That is unexpected. Some people find a few, if any, of valve clearances needing adjusted, but not all of them.

What were your initial measurements before the adjustment? Just how tight were the valves before the adjustments were made when, I assume, your NT was running and sounding fine and wouldn't be expected to need all the valve clearances adjusted?
 
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SW Michigan
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Sprint GT, 2010 NT, MS950
I did my first valve check when I bought my NT at 4600 miles - all ok - and did it again last month with the 12000-mile service. All were within spec, but I adjusted two intake valves to put them in the center of the spec. I have to listen very closely to hear any valve tick.

I did notice more power and much less engine vibration after the service, but the new spark plugs and air filter element probably had more effect than the minor valve adjustment.
 
OP
OP
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Jul 26, 2012
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
The exhaust valves on both cylinders were way out of spec.They were all around .13 to .15mm. the intakes were all around .10 to .12mm. the tick is very noticeable. To say it kinda sounds like a diesel idling. There is only one discernible rhythmic ticking but at 1300rpm I think it would be hard to discern all the valves individual . Tried a "stethoscope" with a piece of metal rod and can say it sounds like the rear cylinder. I took it for a quick ride and notice it has a little more power and does not have the slight lag it did before hence why I checked the valves. Noticed that the back of the intake valves had some slight build up too. Not sure if that is normal or not acceptable for 4000 miles. Thanks to all for your input.
 
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I don't recall anyone reporting that all the valves needed adjustment during the first check. Me, I've adjusted just 2 exhaust valves and have done 3 checks, and the adjustment was minor, the clearance was at the spec, not out of of the spec. Out of spec, on all the valves is very suspicious.

The exhaust should be .20mm (plus or minus .02). Yours were .13 to .15mm. That means they were 65-75% (.13/.20=65%, .15/.20=75%) tighter than the expected spec.
The intakes should be .15mm (plus or minus .02). Yours were .10 to .12mm. That means they were 66-80% (.10/.15=66%, .12/.15=80%) tighter than the expected spec.
All your valve clearances were tight, and tight by nearly the same percentages. Out of spec, and all by nearly the same percentage, that sounds suspicious.

Are you absolutely sure your measurements are correct? ...using the correct feeler gauges? .....turning the engine the correct direction? ......at TDC? ....engine cold? Removing the spark plug makes it easier to adjust the piston to TDC and hold that position.

We've all had moving decimal points, and inch/mm confusion.

Sorry about my skepticism. But if it sounded and ran better before the adjustment, I might be thinking about a do-over.

Yes, the valves can be heard normally.
 
OP
OP
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
No please I don't mind anyones skepticism. The feeler gauges that I used have both metric and sae sizes stamped on them. I triple checked as my thoughts also ran to the possibility of error on my part. i was thinking of going back in and going to the lower side of the +/-of tolerance and see if there is any improvement. I wonder if do to my negligence of that critical maintenance interval I wore something out of spec because valves were tight. I did oil change at 400 miles and have used only rotella synthetic. Done two oil changes since at end of season without starting again after oil change. Somehow I don't feel there is any damage just need that perfect adjustment. If I were to ride the NT in this current state I don't risk damaging anything further do I?

I am no mechanic but very handy. So long as I have the manual(which I do) or as some of you have done the step by step procedures I have the confidence to tackle this sort of thing. This was my first attempt at adjusting valves on anything. I think I will have to get somebody to double check my "form" as I would like to get rid of the knock. I even have two feeler gauges and did as someone suggested and have on under each valve as I adjusted them.
 
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Arkansas
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2020 Kawasaki Versys
I would also be skeptical of the adjustment and ticking. It is not usual to have to adjust all the valves and esp all in the same direction and amount. I would probably go over it again being even more cautious than before. Might try a different feeler gauge also.
Were the valves checked at the initial 600 mile maintenance? It is possible they were set tight then and you put them back into spec but since you are hearing what sounds like unusual ticking it sounds like your valves may now be loose. It might be good to get a different set of ears to listen to see if it sounds abnormal.

Brad
 
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Pensacola, Florida
Two things. First, feeler guages that are both SAE and Metric are probably exactly SAE and "close" on Metric. I always use actual Metric guages for this reason. Second, it is very easy to adjust "too loose" with this type of system, as there are several places in the lifter train that are floating on an oil film that is actually compressed when the engine is running. The criterion I use is this: if, while pulling the screw upward as hard as I can with my fingers, I can just barely push the feeler guage in between the screw and valve stem without bending the guage . . . it's just right. By push, I mean while holding the guage about an inch back from the contact point. If the guage pushes in easily, it's too loose. If the guage bends and refuses to slip in, it's too tight.
 
OP
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
No, this is the first valve check. I did all adjustments with engine cold in the morning. I will use a different set of gauges when I check them. I have done all other maintenance and checks to the NT except adjust and check the valves at 600 miles. As I have been reading that most are finding them within spec. Well to my surprise it figures I always get that anomaly.

I bought a beautiful Yamaha FZ6 from a nice couple two months ago. She was not comfortable riding anymore. Show room condition. Had 600 miles on it. The steering head bearings were loose as the whole unit clicked over bumps and under heaving braking. I go to pull the top triple cap and the darned thing galled to the aluminum shaft stripping all the threads. The old owners had a beautiful home meticulous vehicles and a beautiful 2004 VTX 1300 in show room condition with 4000 miles. The bike was always garaged. I do not suspect foul play. So here I go and pulled the whole front off. Took the opportunity to do some mods to it:dual head light mod, pod lights, s/s brake lines, all fluids replaced, R6S front fork swap with fork oil change, new tires and tapered head bearings. Almost done with that project and then bam I have this with the NT. Oh well I don't give up without a fight. Its all a learning process. I like to learn even if it is at my own expense. Next is the timing belt and water pump on my Pilot. Wish me luck :smile:
 
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OP
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Jul 26, 2012
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
BillyDoc I like what you are saying. Thank You. The feeler gauges would not slide in when I first checked my valves. Had I done what you are saying then I think my outcome would have been different and possibly everything was within spec. The gauges really had to be forced in to check them and the same to remove them. I will get a dedicated metric set and use your criterion to readjust them. I feel a lot better now because I think that I am out of spec to the plus side with my adjustment. Now I have to remove the top tupperware again. Its all good because I forgot to put the plastic shield for the rear cylinder back in. I will let you know in a few days how it worked out. Again thanks to everyone. Hope this helps someone else down the road or prevent the same error as mine.
 

DirtFlier

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I would suspect that if you found tight valves, perhaps the crankshaft was not in the correct position?

+1 with BillyDoc on the SAE/Metric feeler gauges. To me there is no such animal because it's just an SAE set that has been relabeled with mm numbers. Sometimes the conversions are close and sometimes not so close.

The real way to test for drag of the feeler gauge is to set a micrometer to 0.15 mm or 0.20 mm and slide the appropriate gauge through that space.
 
OP
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Cobleskill, NY
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2011 NT700va Black
i was at top dead center as both intake and exhaust rockers had a little bit of play when adjusting each cylinder respectively and turning crank counterclockwise. I would bet that BillyDoc is right and that I did it incorrectly and they are on the loose side now. The service manual also shows that there is an R on cam chain sprocket to indicate TDC for the rear cylinder and 180 degree offset for the front. Im hoping that I did it right and I was making the adjustments at TDC. When I attempt it again I Will triple check myself at every step. I will definitely call in a person in the know to look over my shoulder. Again thanks to all of you for chiming in and helping out.In a timely manner to boot. I like the micrometer test DirtFlier and will try it to help me feel what the drag should be like. In the mean time ride safe everyone. :smile:
 
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perhaps the crankshaft was not in the correct position?
True.

IIRC, the marks used to position the crank are a tough read.....with it's bad lighting, lightly stamped, small hole that can only be read from perfectly straight on, and several similar marks to possibly get confused. Crank it around a whole 360 and read all the marks to familiarize yourself with all the marks and to ensure you on the correct mark.

Good to read others methods of using feeler gauges. I use 3 feeler gauge checks: the one that feels correct, then verify the next thicker feeler gauge won't slide in, and verify the next thinner is too loose, ...repeat. Measure twice, adjust once.
 
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I also set valves using a method as described by BillyDoc.

The feeler gauge needs to be a firm fit not a loose fit.

I always confirm it is correct by making sure the next size down is a loose fit.

From what you have described I am fairly certain your adjustment has made the gaps too large, resulting in the ticking sound
 

DirtFlier

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In ref to looking through that small hole that shows crankshaft position, make sure you're using a light with only ONE bulb. I had a trouble light that had multiple LED bulbs and it created a bunch of weird shadows making the task even more difficult. One of these days, I'll remove the left side engine cover, wash the oil off the flywheel face, then use white paint to mark TF and TR.

Some people use dual feeler gauges to eliminate all slop in the rocker arm pivot but I haven't found that to be truly necessary.
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
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oregon
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2011 NT, 01 Ultra, 04 VLX
This is only a speculation / guesse; It sounds like you have all the correct answers to the valve adjustments, so here area couple of other items, first IF you ae having a spark plug wire beaking down it can let spark jump , to a ground area , try running it in the DARKEST ROOM available at night. If there is a spark jumping you shuld be able to see it. We used to have to check fuel servicing vehicles in AF for this symptom on a regular basis.

second, , and I have not checked the ervice manual , but could the cam chain tensioner need a adjustment? I think NY is old school enough to have retained the tensioner adjustment that is done by lossening a lock nut on the tensioner and allowing spring tension to slf adjust , then retighten the lock nut.

Good luck,
Eldon
 

Phil Tarman

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Eldon, I don't think the cam chain tensioner needs adjustment on the NT.
 
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oregon
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That was a ff the top of my head guest Phil. just thinking the NT engine is old school with the exception of the fuel injection. They used that system for years, and I think my VLX 600 has that cam chain tension adjuster , Same engine configuration as nt only a 580 something cc.

I am leaving within the hour and am about to shut down computer, headed for Russel ride in apt with crf for Tuesday morning.

TTYL,

Eldon. SPot will be on
 
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