[How To] Pannier Latch Solution

Just like almost everybody else, I've had problems with the pannier latches. Here is the solution I came up with - and thus far, I am very happy.

Full disclosure - I'm about as mechanically minded as can be - - NOT! I really am a klutz. While the idea was mine, the work was done by Big Phil (on this board). Phil doesn't ride an NT, but he does almost all the wrench work on my bike, including my previous one. If someone has a question I can't answer, I'll either have to call him or possibly, I'll have him get on this thread.

I quickly got tired of trying to get the OEM latch system to work. For awhile, I just disconnected the seat latch so I could raise the seat easily and push the rod. That got old quickly. I also wanted something that did not require the ignition key - that is a pain, and I wish Honda had not done that. Nonetheless, I wanted to be able to lock it.

The latches were installed last May. I haven't posted earlier because I wanted to be sure everything worked as hoped. After riding to Spearfish and a few other longish rides, I like them. The only time I had a problem was at Spearfish when a bunch of us rode to Devil's Tower. I've forgotten who was behind me, but he came up alongside to tell me my left pannier was open. In retrospect, I think it was operator error on my part and not a failure of the lock.

I found this on the Franzen International site: http://franzeninternational.thomasnet.com/item/standard-case-locks/drawbolts/item-1020 Their web site is not very good - they don't even include prices. Price was $15 each, plus $4.50 shipping. The shipment was prompt.

Here it is installed:



My personal opinion is that it looks quite nice.

Another view:



And still another view:



A view of the lock partially open. By the way - the locks seem very robust.



Another view partially open



A view of the catch mounted on the body. I wasn't there when Phil did the work, but I know he went in as deep as he could go so that he mounted the rivets in the most secure place possible.



Another view. Note that there does not appear to be any stress where the catch is mounted, and this despite the fact I had a lot of weight in the pannier on the Spearfish ride.



Phil knew the biggest danger would be on the lids themselves, since that is the thinnest plastic. This is a piece of aluminum he used, and note the size - just to spread the stress out some.



Another view:



I included this shot to show that the OEM latching mechanism has been totally removed. Another advantage of this system is that there will be no cracks that usually appear where the screws hold the latching OEM mechanism. Since they are not used, there is no cracking. No need for plastic welding and all that other "stuff."



I have watched the hinges on the bottom of the lids for any cracks or other signs of stress, and I haven't seen any yet.

I've been very happy with the results - Phil did a great job, and I feel I now have a functional and good-looking pannier locking system now.

That's the best-looking solution I've seen, Doug. Thanks!

I agree, quite nice. How much time did this project take?

Terry

banjoboy said:

. . . How much time did this project take?

Terry

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About three hours, though I know Phil had cut the two pieces of aluminum before I brought the bike over to his house.

I bought similar latches that use a key rather than a combination. I have not installed them yet. Since I have had no problems with the OEM mechanism, I may just end up with two latching methods. The exterior latches should take the stress off the OEM setup.

Glad to see it's still holding up. I like it.
It took me prolly 3-4 hours to plan, design, measure, measure, measure, mock up, measure Some more, drill, cut backing plates, rivet, test, and repeat on other side. If I was to do again I could maybe Do it in an hour or so. Better to take longer for this though. Take your time and make sure it's right.
Once. The latches are on you should be able to remove the factory catches and be good to go.

Update - -

As I mentioned in the original post, the left lid opened unintentionally while on a day ride out of Spearfish last summer. Yesterday, it happened again.

I think I know why. In both cases, the pannier was empty. In both cases, I had not set the combination lock, but rather had been lazy and left the combination on the set of numbers that opens it. I think that with no weight on the lids, the vibration just rattled the lock lose. The right pannier always has weight in it (rain gear, tire pump, etc.) and I think that damps the vibration enough where the lock won't open, even when left on the numbers that open the lock.

From now on, I'll set the lock. If I get another failure, I'll let you know.

So far, the only trial the locks have not gone through is a heavy all-day rain. A few sprinkles, but nothing soaking. The heavy humidity here in south Texas doesn't seem to have fazed the locks at all, but I don't know what a heavy rain will do.

The stock latch mechanisms live in the airflow and collect anything that "flows" there. They still ask me to be very gentle with them but after cleaning out all the stock grease and lubricating with a dry film lube things have been working well for a couple of years now.

I never liked the Honda latch system, such a good motorcycle with one of the worst bag systems I know of. Way too many parts, so such a simple operation. I guess i am partial to the this system suggested, I have a 84 BMW R100RT which has a system like these (it has a few years on it and still works well, and I never lock then unless but they still lock with the key I guard with my life). In WV the dirt roads (NT was not meant follow a Super Tenere on gravel roads, but it did well)were too much for the Honda system. So I will (as soon as I find my pop rivet gun), install latches like the ones on my R100RT. I used a Rok strap to hold the case close to get back home, those Rok straps are the amazing things.
If only you could find a crash bar to protect the bags.

Miairhead said:

. . . .If only you could find a crash bar to protect the bags.

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Amen to that! The best I've seen is some sort of rubber strip some NT owners have on their large lids. I ought to get something like that to protect them during the inevitable SAD.

Comanche, Glad to see you went ahead with the setup I use. Your write up is more detailed and has nicer images but the result is the same none the less. Hopefully the setup is working out well for you aside from the one instance of it opening up, I always roll the code as to not have them pop open from vibration.

Comanche said:

Amen to that! The best I've seen is some sort of rubber strip some NT owners have on their large lids. I ought to get something like that to protect them during the inevitable SAD.

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I have the rubber strip on the Lids and they do work on the normal lids but not on the big lids.

My last SAD was in a unlit car park about 7.30 pm just before Christmas. I put my left foot down only to find that the ground wasn't there! Over we went and the (big) Lid shattered into about 10 or so pieces even though it had the rubber strip on it.

I rode around with a little lid on the left and the big lid on the right for about 3 weeks until the new big lids arrived.

The rubber strips are great for nerfs and nudges in car parks or when filtering or parking too close to a wall etc., but useless on the big lids in a tip over.

I just installed these Franzen locks on my 2010 and they look and work great! Thanks for the post with all the pictures and information. The part # I ordered was 1470-1.

Okay guys, this might be a dumb question but I am a "newbie" - I still have the original latching system from Honda on my NT and really haven't used the panniers in my "just getting to know the bike" month so far, but what happens if the Honda push rod system fails? I think I would need to open the left hand side pannier to get to the latch mechanism to take the seat off to preform any repairs right? How would I get in if the pannier lock system has failed as the seat latch is only accessible in the pannier? Thanks and I like the lock that Comanche used. Oh, and one more question - are there more problems with OEM failures when you switch to the larger pannier lids or just the same big or small lids? Thanks, Jim

ADK Jim said:

Okay guys, this might be a dumb question but I am a "newbie" - I still have the original latching system from Honda on my NT and really haven't used the panniers in my "just getting to know the bike" month so far, but what happens if the Honda push rod system fails? I think I would need to open the left hand side pannier to get to the latch mechanism to take the seat off to preform any repairs right? How would I get in if the pannier lock system has failed as the seat latch is only accessible in the pannier? Thanks and I like the lock that Comanche used. Oh, and one more question - are there more problems with OEM failures when you switch to the larger pannier lids or just the same big or small lids? Thanks, Jim

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Maybe I can answer some of your questions.

On the first count - yes, you just press the release to be able to get to the mechanisms. I was able to get a screwdriver into the area to spring the seat latch. (I might add, that after installing an aftermarket seat, I don't use the seat latch.) Most likely, you won't need to make "repairs", but rather simply to move a link that has bound up. Not everybody has had problems with the original latching system - Daboo comes to mind. He used his on a daily basis and never had a problem. I started having problems within the first few months. I was as tender with the system as I could be, never slammed the lids shut or otherwise abused the system. So - there you go - you may never have a problem.

To me, however, the real problem is not the latching mechanism, but the plastic parts in the lid that the latching system engages. These places develop cracks. Some people have used plastic weld and other fixes, but the fact remains, they crack. There simply is too much strain on those parts. IMHO, it was not well designed.

Having the large lids doesn't seem to make any real differences - the latching mechanism is still prone to failure and the cracks still appear. Since I installed the locks you see in my photos, I have had zero problems. I live in a very humid climate and ridden through more than a few toad-chocking rain storms, and the locks still function well.

Hope that helps -

Do you have a hole drill layout for the lock set?

I installed two of these on each pannier. There are lots of choices available from Southco latches. The location of the latches is partly determined by the location of the reinforcing ridges of plastic on the inside of the panniers. On my NT the latch plastic cracked on the lid side as well as the inside part. I removed the entire seat latch/pannier latch system when I installed the external latches. The Southco latches have a hole template available on line.

gowman said:

Do you have a hole drill layout for the lock set?

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Sorry for the late reply - I was traveling.

No, sorry - I don't have a template.

Comanche said:

Sorry for the late reply - I was traveling.

No, sorry - I don't have a template.

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No worries. I recently received the latch set and will be installing them soon.

gowman said:

No worries. I recently received the latch set and will be installing them soon.

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Excellent.

One caution - when you set it up, be sure there is some tension when the latches are closed. Without there being some tension on the latches, they can open because of bouncing. The latch itself does not open up - it just that the tongue can bounce loose from the lip. I didn't try to redrill - I just keep some weight (like a few bottles of water) in the panniers when I'm not traveling. I've never had them open when I do that.