Hyperpro Suspension Upgrade - Long term ride report

Fisherdave

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This is my long term ride update from a post I started in the suspension category in April 2014. I upgraded my front springs with the Hyperpro springs last summer (2013)and installed a new Hyperpro rear suspension unit in April 2014.

I have put around 3500 miles on the Hyperpro rear shock and I can say that it was the best money I have ever spent on upgrades to the NT. My main gripe with the OEM rear suspension was that I would literally get bounced off the seat when I hit a rough spot ? like some buckled pavement. On smaller rough spots I could feel the jarring up through my spine and in my neck. I?m an average to light rider ? about 175 lbs. I tried to adjust the OEM preload setting many times and was never able to get it just right.
The Hyperpro unit was installed in an hour or so by the local Honda dealer. The preload adjuster fit in the same location as OEM and looks very similar to the original. I purchased the unit from EPM Performance imports - http://www.epmperf.com/ and it was set to match my weight.

After some amount of trial and error I was able to adjust the preload just about perfectly. I found the Hyperpro unit to have much better adjustability than the OEM unit. I have found that in addition to a smoother ride the bike also handles better. This is evident when I?m going into a turn and encounter an uneven surface ? like a washboard. The front end stays ?planted? better and the bike feels more stable. I?m riding all of the same roads that I traveled with the OEM suspension and the difference between that and the Hyperpro is very noticeable. The ride is more comfortable and I don?t get that nose dive when I have to brake hard. As I said previously, this is the best money I have spent on any upgrades to the NT.

The three upgrades that I have found to be the most significant are: 1, the Cee Bailey windshield - 2, Bill Mayer seat - 3, the Hyperpro suspension upgrade. My bike rides and handles so much better now. My biggest regret is that I didn?t get these sooner.
 

karl

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Thanks for the report. The suspenders are the last changes I would like to make on the bike.
 

DirtFlier

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[The suspenders are the last changes I would like to make on the bike.]

I would put the fork & shock mods in 1st place, only behind ergonomic fixes to make the riding position more comfy. It's too easy to become accustomed to the standard suspension without realizing it could be oh so much better with fork mods and a new rear shock.

Dave - the standard rear shock spring is way too strong for the bike so adjusting preload does nothing. That spring is dual-rate (1500/2500) but the softer section is ultra-short so merely sitting on the bike uses up the softest part of the spring travel. My Works Performance shock is fitted with a single rate spring (1600) and now the rear wheel moves up-and-down nicely to absorb bumps. My forks still use the standard springs but with Ricor (anti-dive) valves fitted plus I experimented with different length spacers to get the correct ride quality. I may try the HyperPro fork springs this winter.
 
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Joined
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New Orleans, LA
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2010 NT700v Metallic Red
Thanks for the review, its helped me out...will be getting their complete front & rear custom kit for my dealer to install with some new PR4's soon. :D
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2012
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Livonia, Mi.
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ST1300,R1200RT
Thanks for posting your review since it is very timely for my situation. This was first good riding weather here in Mi. and after performing post ride cleaning/inspection, I found oil over the radiator housing. Closer inspection revealed a oil around the right fork seal. The Forum research indicates many NT owners had this issue, so I would like your recommendation on 1) Replace only the leaking fork seal, 2) Replace both fork seals, bushings &piston rings and add fork gaiters, 3) Upgrade front suspension with Hyperpro springs and new fork seals?
Any and all advice will be appreciated
John
 

Phil Tarman

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John, I replaced both fork seals and bushings and added fork gaitors (I got them from Bike Bandit and they were for one of the Triumphs). I did change fork oil again just recently and replaced the seals then, but my mechanic said the bushings were fine.
 
Joined
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Genoa, IL, USA
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2010 Red NT700V
[The suspenders are the last changes I would like to make on the bike.]

I would put the fork & shock mods in 1st place, only behind ergonomic fixes to make the riding position more comfy. It's too easy to become accustomed to the standard suspension without realizing it could be oh so much better with fork mods and a new rear shock.

Dave - the standard rear shock spring is way too strong for the bike so adjusting preload does nothing. That spring is dual-rate (1500/2500) but the softer section is ultra-short so merely sitting on the bike uses up the softest part of the spring travel. My Works Performance shock is fitted with a single rate spring (1600) and now the rear wheel moves up-and-down nicely to absorb bumps. My forks still use the standard springs but with Ricor (anti-dive) valves fitted plus I experimented with different length spacers to get the correct ride quality. I may try the HyperPro fork springs this winter.
DirtFlier,

What did you settle on in regards to the spacers? I'm going to be adding Ricors to my forks soon.

Brad
2010 NT Red
 

DirtFlier

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The bottom of the fork cap barely touches the spring when it is installed. This causes a little more sag in front but it's hardly noticeable when actually riding and the softer preload on the fork springs provides a much smoother ride so I barely feel the small stuff. I would call my riding speed "moderate" so faster riders may find this too soft for what they do.

ps. although Ricor doesn't say drilling the damper rod holes oversize - as is required by Race Tech Gold Valves - mine were already drilled and Ricor said it wouldn't hurt. At least to me, with those holes the standard size it still becomes the choke point for high speed compression damping no matter what kind of valve is sitting above it. Much better to let more oil flow then the valve can take care of the damping.
 
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Bear

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Mar 21, 2011
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Belfast, Maine
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2010 NT-700 V Red
Thanks for the information. Now that I can ride again (Whoopie, it's Winter) I plan to keep the NT and not buy a lower bike. I will be modifying the suspension. Part of my excercise routine this winter will be to go out into my heated garage and swing my leg over the bike several times--recommended by my physical therapist.
 

DirtFlier

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Bear - I don't know if you still have the NT and if so, you still want (need!) to lower it but here's a possible solution.

Long ago, I made a simple spring compressor and it has been used by several people on the NT-forum to remove the spring from the rear shock which is necessary to lower the NT. The drill is I send it to you and you send it back once the task is completed (no rush) and only reimburse me for the Priority Mail costs which is around $7. I even have written instructions in how to do the job so let me know if you want to use it and I'd be happy to send it your way. :)

The NT has a direct action shock that doesn't use linkage of any kind. The shock's top mount bolts to the frame backbone and the lower mount bolts to the bridge of the swingarm.

ps. my other bike (NC700X) is a bit too tall for me and/or my legs aren't as limber as they once were (!) so what I do when mounting/dismounting is with sidestand down, I rest my weight on the left footpeg, raise myself up then swing my right leg over. Make sure the kickstand pad is on hard ground if doing this! Oh, both my bikes have shortened sidestands so the pad is now a round, 3" diameter piece of 3/16" steel.
 
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