[How To] Checking the valves

CoolNT

Guest
Katherine,

Here's the tool and bits (I picked up the bits from Home Depot last year) I'll be using - http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/rmelwani/toolbits.jpg

As for the feeler gauge, I found another BikeMaster part http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=15-1526&click=37735 that is labeled metric and appears to have the size of the feeler that the service manual calls for for both the tappets and the spark plugs. Thanks.

BTW, my local Honda shop is ordering the feeler gauges for me. As for the offset wrenches, what do you think of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html
 
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elizilla

Guest
I just checked my valves again, and they're still spot on at just under 15K. I'll be in no rush to do it again.
 

Igo

Guest
Have you checked then before? have they shifted at all but still in tolerance or are they exactly as before?
 
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OP

elizilla

Guest
This is the second time I've checked them. I did the first check at the same time I did the first oil change. It's hard to say if they have shifted - the feeler gauges I have don't give that kind of granularity. They seem to take about the same amount of force to get the correct feeler gauges in.
 

CoolNT

Guest
On my initial 600 mile service, one of the rear valves was off-too tight. I readjusted it erring on very slightly loose. When I'm at 8K I'll check 'em again to see how they fair.

 

Igo

Guest
elizilla said:
This is the second time I've checked them. I did the first check at the same time I did the first oil change. It's hard to say if they have shifted - the feeler gauges I have don't give that kind of granularity. They seem to take about the same amount of force to get the correct feeler gauges in.
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Well if you used the same gauges then I'd say they haven't moved. That's good. I really don't want to do mine but I can't see taking it to a dealer here.
 

taldric

Guest
I am comfortable doing a lot of things on my bike - but opening the engine isn't one of them. For valve checking and adjusting - I'm leaving it to a shop!
 

NILE

Guest
Valve Check.

I now have 4500 miles on the Nt. Great site for information, I performed the valve check and found everything in spec. A question though what happens as the valve go out of adjustment? What symptons? Has any one had to adjust theirs? The info in this tread and the owners manuel made easy work of this maintainence issue.
Thanks, Nile.
 
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elizilla

Guest
They wear tighter rather than looser, and as they get tighter they get quieter. Other than the quietness there are no non-catastrophic symptoms. If the valves are too tight, the cams and the rocker arms will wear. If they wear too much, the hard outer layer will be worn through and the softer metal underneath will go away quickly. The parts that get destroyed are #2, #3, #4 and #5 in this diagram. You can replace these - I have done it in a past bike (not an NT). But it's pretty expensive and a lot of work. Not to mention, all the metal that comes off them can't be good for the rest of your engine.

Not to scare you, though - this is not an item that happens quickly, and plenty of people get away with ignoring this maintenance item, for the entire life of their bike. The bike that I had to do this to, was a model with a known top end oiling issue, that was exacerbated by tight valve clearances.
 

NILE

Guest
Valve adj.

Thank you for the information.

Didn't mind doing the valve check, but it did burn up an entire day to complete and reassemble the body work.

Nile :)
 
Warren

Warren

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NILE said:
Thank you for the information.

Didn't mind doing the valve check, but it did burn up an entire day to complete and reassemble the body work.

Nile :)
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Of all the things I could wish for on the NT it would be hydraulic valve lifters.
 
bicyclist

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NILE said:
Thank you for the information.

Didn't mind doing the valve check, but it did burn up an entire day to complete and reassemble the body work.

Nile :)
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Yeah, but think how much faster it'll go next time. Three hours and you'll be done.
 

datRC

Guest
Got mine done today, at 4000 miles. Intake and exhaust valves of the rear cylinder were out of specs, 0.006 feeler gauge couldn't fit in, for the front, intake valve also out, too tight, exhaust valve in specs, at tighter side.
I adjusted all the valves that out of specs. Took a good 3 hrs to complete the job, but I think time should improve next adjustment.
 
DirtFlier

DirtFlier

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[The bike that I had to do this to, was a model with a known top end oiling issue, that was exacerbated by tight valve clearances...Katherine]

Yes, the early V4s were infamous for cam problems perhaps exacerbated by the oiling system. If you noticed on the NT, there is an oil trough cast into the rocker arm stands to direct oil any collected oil spray to the tip of the rocker arm where it contacts the valve stem.
 
Papa Lou

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Good info, thanks.

Feedback: The prior valve check on Bilbo showed all were in spec at 18K, performed in May before my last tour. Next one on the "overdue" maintenance I'm having done on Friday, July 15th, at 30Kmiles will tell the story. No time to do it myself between rides, but I'm actually going to reference this for the mechanic who is doing the work while I catch up on stuff I get paid to do.

BTW - I change the oil, engine and final drive, every 4K - 5K, even if I have to do it in a motel parking lot. Anything requiring disassembly of more than a drain plug or two waits until downtimes like this. That's why the NT has proven to be the best bike I've ever owned in 40+ years. It doesn't need anything else. Not even coolant!

Thanks.
 
mikesim

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elizilla said:
They wear tighter rather than looser, and as they get tighter they get quieter. Other than the quietness there are no non-catastrophic symptoms. If the valves are too tight, the cams and the rocker arms will wear. If they wear too much, the hard outer layer will be worn through and the softer metal underneath will go away quickly. The parts that get destroyed are #2, #3, #4 and #5 in this diagram. You can replace these - I have done it in a past bike (not an NT). But it's pretty expensive and a lot of work. Not to mention, all the metal that comes off them can't be good for the rest of your engine.

Not to scare you, though - this is not an item that happens quickly, and plenty of people get away with ignoring this maintenance item, for the entire life of their bike. The bike that I had to do this to, was a model with a known top end oiling issue, that was exacerbated by tight valve clearances.
Click to expand...
As a point of info, the main reason to have the valve clerance set properly is to avoid burning the valves themselves, not cam wear. When the valves don't seat completely, they are not able to shed the heat of combustion causing them to burn or warp. When properly seated, the heat in the valve is conducted through the seat into the head. When the valve clearance is too tight, the valve cannot make intimate contact with the seat thus not allowing the valve to cool completely..

Mike
 
Papa Lou

Papa Lou

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Update to my previous post at 30Kmiles on 7/11: The valves were in spec, though one seemed a little on the "loose" side to the wrench who performed the work. He "nudged" it (another advantage of screw/locknut over the shim/bucket type) and, other than a slight top-off of the coolant and my habitual oil replacements, that was all that was needed mechanically after 12Kmiles in 4 weeks. That 4 weeks included days of hail/snow in the Rockies and long riding days of 100 degrees/90% through the South visiting Civil War battlefields.

Your results may vary. I just thought I'd let y'all know what we found.

I also changed to Pilot Road tires hoping to get rid of the little shimmy from the Avon Storm II's, but that's for a different thread.
 

johnha

Guest
Anyone else notice that the valves on the chain side were ALL slightly tighter than those on the outside? Mine were all in spec, but every intake and exhaust valve on the cam chain side were on the tight side of the spec, ie the intakes on the cam chain side were .005-.006, exhausts .007-.008 while the other side were .006 and .008 exactly.
 
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