Maintenance Ahead

Hi people,

This is my first thread, hope you can help.
Planning some maintenance next week. Got the Haynes manual and some good experience fixing stuff but any advise is appreciated anyway. First time that I will strip the DV down. Bike 2008MY @ 45.000 km

- Spline re-greasing. Got some heavy duty moly grease used on truck axles. Should I take it all down including the shaft and the knuckle?

- A squeaking sound comes from the mid-rear section, depending on rear wheel travel. It's got not much to do with the load, only wheel travel. In other words, if suspension setting is soft and bike is not loaded, it sqeuaks. If I've got a passenger and set the suspension to hardest, it hardly squeaks. Single riding at moderate or high setting: nothing at all. Can't trust anyone to jump on the bike while I'm looking under to find it out. So, any ideas where it could be coming from? Lower mount of the suspension is my first suspect (Which is covered with mud at the moment)

- Is the knuckle (Cardan joint) sealed? Does it need any maintenance?

- Bought some rubber mat for a custom mud flap to protect lower suspension mounting. Also against splashes around footrests. I will make a suspension sleeve from AEM rubber too. (Beats CR )

- The bike feels like trying to go forward when in gear and clutch lever is fully pushed. Freeplay is OK, 3-4mm. Also slows down while moving, frees significantly when I take it to neutral. Obvious at 1st and 2nd. If in 1st and bike deccelareting, impossible to take it off gear. Other than that, gear changes are fine, silky smooth. I am guessing maybe the plate splines carved the gasket a bit? There are also some discussions about the effect of push rod adjustment. Any ideas?

- Ordered some grade 43 thread lock. How much should I use it? How many drops per (X) Nm bolt? Don't want to get it stuck.

- Whole bodywork will be stripped down to check cracks etc. and also for re-painting faded plastic parts. Maybe I will try plastic spraying instead of paint.

- Fog lights (60W), LED strips (2-2,5m) for rear, maybe a short flash stop light, voltmeter, usb charger will be installed. Is it OK to use common fuse for all? I guess 15A will be OK?

- Headlight and instrument panel might get foggy in rain sometimes. Seems like a common issue for some. Will check for failed sealing.

All suggestions are gratefully appreciated and please let me know if you advise having a look at anywhere else.

The universal joint (knuckle joint) is sealed and does not require any routine maintenance.

The bike feeling like it is moving forward is probably due to the wrong type of engine oil. If it is too thick the clutch plates turn from the thick oil even when the clutch lever is pulled in. Try changing the oil and use the correct type.

I do not use thread lock but if you do use it one drop on a bolt should be plenty

The squeaking sound you hear when the rear suspension moves up/down may be coming from the shock absorber's lower mount. The lower mount has a needle bearing with seals on both sides. Because of its position a lot of water gets thrown at it by the rear tire. Running it without adequate grease in that bearing will cause rapid wear. On my bike, I added a small rubber flap to divert water away from this critical area.

The upper mount is just rubber that is bonded to a steel sleeve and well protected.

Some early NT's had water ingress problems in the dash. I think the problem was fixed by 2010 when the US got the NT. Here is a link to a Google search of Deauville UK site concerning that problem. Some of those links may be of help for your 2008 Deauville.

Oops, looks like you have to register to view those links. You may want to register for the Deauville UK site if you haven't already. There is lots of good info there.

cemalkd said:

Hi people,



- Spline re-greasing. Got some heavy duty moly grease used on truck axles. Should I take it all down including the shaft and the knuckle?

.

Click to expand...

What is the % of Moly Should be a min of 40%. Use the Honda Moly 60 for your rear wheel splines

seagrass said:

The universal joint (knuckle joint) is sealed and does not require any routine maintenance.

The bike feeling like it is moving forward is probably due to the wrong type of engine oil. If it is too thick the clutch plates turn from the thick oil even when the clutch lever is pulled in. Try changing the oil and use the correct type.

Click to expand...

I'm using Castrol Power1 Racing 10w50. Supposed to be fine. I have found this oil to be better especially with high temperatures. Gear changes are better and engine runs more smoothly. Maybe that's higher viscosity, eventually causing the drag.

DirtFlier said:

The squeaking sound you hear when the rear suspension moves up/down may be coming from the shock absorber's lower mount. The lower mount has a needle bearing with seals on both sides. Because of its position a lot of water gets thrown at it by the rear tire. Running it without adequate grease in that bearing will cause rapid wear. On my bike, I added a small rubber flap to divert water away from this critical area.

Click to expand...

Will check. I hope I can save it...

dnktng said:

Some early NT's had water ingress problems in the dash. I think the problem was fixed by 2010 when the US got the NT. Here is a link to a Google search of Deauville UK site concerning that problem. Some of those links may be of help for your 2008 Deauville.

Oops, looks like you have to register to view those links. You may want to register for the Deauville UK site if you haven't already. There is lots of good info there.

Click to expand...

I've been following the UK site for a while now. Mostly with search operators Thanks.

Chucksklrst said:

What is the % of Moly Should be a min of 40%. Use the Honda Moly 60 for your rear wheel splines

Click to expand...

I don't actually know the percentage but I trust truck wheels require much more heavy duty than the NT. But then there is increased surface on truck splines... This is supposed to be a good replacement but can't make sure now... Maybe I will just try and check a few hundred miles later.

cemalkd said:

- The bike feels like trying to go forward when in gear and clutch lever is fully pushed. Freeplay is OK, 3-4mm. Also slows down while moving, frees significantly when I take it to neutral. Obvious at 1st and 2nd. If in 1st and bike deccelareting, impossible to take it off gear. Other than that, gear changes are fine, silky smooth. I am guessing maybe the plate splines carved the gasket a bit? There are also some discussions about the effect of push rod adjustment. Any ideas?

- Ordered some grade 43 thread lock. How much should I use it? How many drops per (X) Nm bolt? Don't want to get it stuck.

- Whole bodywork will be stripped down to check cracks etc. and also for re-painting faded plastic parts. Maybe I will try plastic spraying instead of paint.

- Fog lights (60W), LED strips (2-2,5m) for rear, maybe a short flash stop light, voltmeter, usb charger will be installed. Is it OK to use common fuse for all? I guess 15A will be OK?

Click to expand...

FYI, your english is very good. Are you from Turkey originally?

Does the bike only want to move when cold or does it happen when hot as well? Has it always done this for you or has it just started? You might try a lower viscosity oil, like a 10W-40.

I rarely use thread lock, and when I do almost always the blue (temporary). Do not use it around plastic parts as the fumes will make it brittle. I use a lot of anti-seize on steel bolts that go into aluminum parts.

I don't like the plastic paints. They do not seem to bond as well and may peel after a year or so. For painting you'll need to scuff the clearcoat that is on there first. Then apply your paint. We have Rustoleum Automotive and Duplicolor paints that are made for cars. They have nice spray nozzles and work well. The finish is how you apply it. If you want a good finish then plan on a lot of sanding and rubbing compound. Last time I did a good one it took 5 color coats and two clear coats. OTOH, my flat black paint is plain Rustoleum spray paint, one coat primer, two coats color.

Your lights sound good. Are the foglights each 60W? That would be 5-6A each. You probably want to fuse those by themselves with a 15A. Then the other stuff with a 10A.

charlie

charlie b said:

FYI, your english is very good. Are you from Turkey originally?

Does the bike only want to move when cold or does it happen when hot as well? Has it always done this for you or has it just started? You might try a lower viscosity oil, like a 10W-40.

I rarely use thread lock, and when I do almost always the blue (temporary). Do not use it around plastic parts as the fumes will make it brittle. I use a lot of anti-seize on steel bolts that go into aluminum parts.

I don't like the plastic paints. They do not seem to bond as well and may peel after a year or so. For painting you'll need to scuff the clearcoat that is on there first. Then apply your paint. We have Rustoleum Automotive and Duplicolor paints that are made for cars. They have nice spray nozzles and work well. The finish is how you apply it. If you want a good finish then plan on a lot of sanding and rubbing compound. Last time I did a good one it took 5 color coats and two clear coats. OTOH, my flat black paint is plain Rustoleum spray paint, one coat primer, two coats color.

Your lights sound good. Are the foglights each 60W? That would be 5-6A each. You probably want to fuse those by themselves with a 15A. Then the other stuff with a 10A.

charlie

Click to expand...

Thanks, I am actually. Very easy to learn English in today's world... My job also helps for the technical side.

It does regardless of the temperature. Sometimes, nothing at all, it waits in gear as if in neutral... I've had the bike for 2K miles and it has always done that. I changed the oil to 10w50 very shortly after I bought it so I can't compare to 10w40. I hadn't realised anything until then as I was still busy with keeping the bike under me - consequences of moving from 250 to 700 =))

Painting seems to require too much time and expertise. I think I will try plastic spraying and then coat it with clean lacquer spray.

Fogs are 30W each. I bought them from dx.com at a very reasonable price and they seem to be quite nice. We'll see the rest after using for a while. Here's the link:
http://www.dx.com/p/exled-electric-cars-motorcycle-cree-xm-l-u2-led-headlights-modification-lens-strong-light-302629