Yet another latch comment

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Dec 18, 2010
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Z'ha'dum
Somehow I missed this little problem until a couple of weeks ago when I noticed an unusual amount of looseness in the saddlebag when it was closed. Like many others I found that all four of the mounting posts had cracks and one was about to fall loose. Never did find all the little pieces but enough to reconstruct the posts initially with JB Kwik Weld which really did not have enough holding power and then later with Devcon plastic epoxy. Uncertain if even this will be sufficient in the long run.
I believe these cracks were a fatigue failure. It is interesting that the cracks are only in the bag that carried a small amount of this and that-certainly not above the weight limit. My bike is one of the older models in time but not in mileage. Bought it in November 09 so that may have some significance. Also the problem is in the right bag which is above the muffler. Wonder if heat exposure is relevant.
I am surprised that this failure has not been refered to the appropriate governmental agency. I certainly would not want a bag to come open at speed.
 

Phil Tarman

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Loeiwn, I've probably got 90-100 miles at speeds of about 80mph with bags open on my NT. Nothing fell out either time. Once I had a paperback, a couple of bills in their envelopes and a loose check in the bag that was open and they just sat there for over 60 miles. I had been passed by a member of my church west of Fort Morgan on I-76 and had followed him for 20-30 miles and then ridden through downtown Denver on I-25 and didn't discover the pannier was open until I reached my destination. When I got home, I called my friend and asked him if it had been open when he passed me and he said it had been. I asked why he hadn't signaled me and he said he figured I had wanted it open! Duh....
 
Joined
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Maryland
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Honda NT700V
Honda did extensive wind tunnel testing with the bags open and carefully engineered the aerodynamics to keep your stuff inside.:wink:

I rode a few miles with one of mine open before my buddy flagged me down and didn't lose anything. (Note proper spelling of "lose".)
 

junglejim

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And yet one more latch failure.

I have discovered that the latch mechanism mounting points have failed (the ones on the inside not the lids). I had the plastic all apart to clean and lubricate the latch mechanisms and found that the points where the latches screwed into the plastic has cracked. Two of the four screws on each side were holding nothing. So after a little super glue and JB Weld plus some longer screws they are back together.

I've been intending to order some of those external draw latches and now I'm more motivated to get that done. But they won't be here before I leave for the west coast this weekend.
 

DirtFlier

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Troy, OH
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[...so after a little super glue and JB Weld plus some longer screws they are back together...]

I have to wonder about the longevity of the repaired towers using longer screws and on first guess I'd say they'd still make the tower split at some point. If I were you, I'd order the external latches. My repair using 5 mm studs was tedious and time consuming but they're still OK after 30k miles. Fitting 4 studs then securing the latch mechanism with nuts puts a completely different type of force on the towers since the studs are epoxy'd in place don't move, plus I drilled and tapped the holes for 5 mm. I made a special handle for my 5 mm tap since the towers are too far down in a crevice for the normal tap handle to work. That handle/w tap attached is available for borrowing so send me a PM if you're interested.

Lorien - all the 2010 USA-models were made in one, non-stop batch, which is normal Honda practice. You had your bike a month before I got mine so our bikes have been in use for a bit longer than the norm but I only rode my bike a few times until spring because of that white stuff on the roads!
 
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DirtFlier

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I'm fairly certain that if you looked up the P/Ns for the latch mechanism, lid latches, and saddlebag body, there would be no difference between 2010 and 2011 models. When there is a change in the part from one year to the next, it is normal Honda practice to amend the last digit/letter in the P/N.

ps. if it has a digit on the end, that's usually the color code.
 

junglejim

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I have to wonder about the longevity of the repaired towers using longer screws and on first guess I'd say they'd still make the tower split at some point. If I were you, I'd order the external latches. My repair using 5 mm studs was tedious and time consuming but they're still OK after 30k miles. Fitting 4 studs then securing the latch mechanism with nuts puts a completely different type of force on the towers since the studs are epoxy'd in place don't move, plus I drilled and tapped the holes for 5 mm. I made a special handle for my 5 mm tap since the towers are too far down in a crevice for the normal tap handle to work. That handle/w tap attached is available for borrowing so send me a PM if you're interested.
Ya, I thought that was an issue so I drilled the holes a little over size, filled them with epoxy, and then gently inserted the over-sized screws in the wet epoxy. Like you I had to make an extension to get deep enough. I think they will hold until I can install the external latches.

They were probably broken before I rode the bike away from the dealer. He was showing me the features of the bike and slammed the lids several times (forcefully) because he didn't know how to operate them either. And when I called the dealer about service the service department didn't know what an NT was so they never serviced it. It took them a half hour to install the battery when I bought it because they were trying to install it top up rather than sidewise. I don't trust them.
 

DirtFlier

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Yes, slamming the lids will certain hasten the demise of the plastic towers. :-(
 
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Aug 7, 2013
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Otsego, MI
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'10 NT 84 BMW R100RT Ural
I never liked the fact you had to take a key to unlock the side cases. Since I have a '84 R100RT and never locked the bags (almost), I was use to not having not having to take a key to unlock the cases. I really like to cam lock like so many other installed. I just wish they would come off like the RT.
 

Phil Tarman

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One solution to the Lock/Unlock issue is to do what Chuck Henderson showed me: I got a couple of extra keys made, then measured how far the key stuck out of the locking fairing pocket and how far it stuck out of the pannier lock. Then I cut the key off so I'd have enough left over to put into a new key holder. The holder was simply an old oil bottle lid. I filled the lid with JB-Weld and stuck the cut-off keys in so I'd have the right amount to open both the fairing pocket and the pannier latch, but not enough to work in the ignition.
 
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I have disconnected the cable under the seat to the right hand pannier. The one from the key lock to disable the key part. I now have the left bag that locks with a key and the right that does not lock. of couse if you have skinny arms you can open the right hand bag and reach into the left through the pass through tunnel. I have done that a couple times to retrive small items like gloves when I was too lazy to unlock the left side.

Brad
 
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Jun 5, 2011
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Western Washington
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Epoxy dipped key in oil cap. Luckily I found a black cap with high, easy-grip ridges. Also made one for the left fairing pocket. Like Phil said, it's not long enough for the ignition, but in an emergency it could be smashed & the key portion would work the ignition with a pair a pliers. It does work the gas cap though. I drilled a small hole in the cap and filled it with red paint (color matched, of course. It would uncivilized to do otherwise:rolleyes1:) so I can tell if it's locked without having to physically twist it.
IMAG0385.jpg
IMAG0383.jpg
 

Mona

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I have the same problem on my 2010 NT. Side case screw threads are cracked and a small piece broke off of one. Interesting that the right side cover is fine and the left side cover is the one with the damage. I will be attempting a repair this weekend.
I have a product called Plast-aid (which I have only found online) but I also like the baking soda and super glue idea.
 
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
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30
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Colorado
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2010 NT RED
I did away with the internal latch system and installed these. WP_20150930_001[1].jpgWP_20150930_003[1].jpg WP_20150930_004[1].jpg I wasn't having problems with the stock latches (yet). These are much more convenient than the stock latches.
 
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