Frick'n Aye!

I just got my new, well new to me, ride at the end of Nov. and I've started to notice a front end wobble! I checked tire tread, pressure, and steering head bearings. Then I noticed the brands...Shinko F009rr on the front and Kenda Cruiser ST on the rear. I ran my hand over both and there's the problem. The rear is cupping quite badly, on the left side. I'll be taking her in this weekend for new shoes. I'll probably go with either the Dunlop Roadsmart II, or the Michelin PR4.
I can't believe a dealer would let a bike out on such poor rubber, but shame on me for not noticing.

The Michelin PR's are usually the preferred tire for most folks here...

I think you will be surprised how well the NT handles with a good set of tires on it. Both the PR4's and the Roadsmart II's are a good choice.

Cupping is often caused by low tyre pressure and all Tyres can suffer from the problem.

The NT likes to have the tyres at the manufacturers recommended pressure and many owners find this prevents the cupping.

Seagrass

seagrass said:

Cupping is often caused by low tyre pressure and all Tyres can suffer from the problem.

The NT likes to have the tyres at the manufacturers recommended pressure and many owners find this prevents the cupping.

Seagrass

Click to expand...

I know tire pressure is VERY important. That's why I check it before each ride. I've been running 36-38 F / 40-42/R. Seems about right to me. Perhaps the cupping was from the previous owner, if the dealer didn't install the tires.

I absolutely LOVE the PR4's! Really nice and with dyna beads perfectly smooth all the time.

malighthill said:

I know tire pressure is VERY important. That's why I check it before each ride. I've been running 36-38 F / 40-42/R. Seems about right to me. Perhaps the cupping was from the previous owner, if the dealer didn't install the tires.

Click to expand...

Rated tire pressure is 36 front and 42 rear. Running 36-38 front is ok but i would suggest 42-44 for the rear.

I've been running 38F/44R on my last set of PR4s and the set I just put on before my deer strike.

I'm sure you will like the feel of the new tires. I just replaced my front and the difference is dramatic. Bikes need round smooth tire treads or they feel squirrely.
I have run PR3's and am now on Roadsmarts. Either is a good choice.
I have a Shinko on my KLX 250 but it is a totally different animal (dual sport) and very few miles to test it out.

Brad

On another forum, someone who used to work for Michelin suggests 2-4 psi over pressure front and rear. 38 psi front and up to 46 psi rear. You may find the ride is a bit harsh at those pressures, I do, so I use 38 psi front and 44 psi rear. I also get better longevity from the tyres at those pressures and the grip in the dry is just as good as at the recommended pressures.

Note: in very wet weather you may want to run at the recommended pressures as there is very slightly better grip in the wet. Though, unless you're into racing bikes, you probably wouldn't notice the difference.

[...Bikes need round smooth tire treads or they feel squirrely...]

My other bike (NC700X/w DCT) came with Metzlers and I got around 7-8k on them then switched both front & rear at the same time to Pilot Road. The transformation was amazing but of course the old tires were squared-off and cupped. Especially noticeable with the old tires was how suddenly the bike seemed to fall-in when leaned into a turn.

This is not a condemnation of Metzlers and praise for Michelins because you'd probably see the same thing - regardless of brand - if you switched from well-worn tires to new tires.

malighthill said:

I'll probably go with either the Dunlop Roadsmart II, or the Michelin PR4.

Click to expand...

your on the right track, on some other posts I have my tire chart for wear. I'll put my new chart from 9-28-16 on here.



best front tire for me is Dunlop RS2,and rear is PR4. Don't need to have same brand on both front and rear. Just match radial and radial, not radial and bias ply, but I don't think bias ply comes in NT sizes anyhow

and....of all the tires I have tried, ALL seem to cup or wear to some degree, the higher priced and better tires cup less. the BT 020 was the worst and made noise while leaning over in curves and provided less grip

seagrass said:

Cupping is often caused by low tyre pressure and all Tyres can suffer from the problem.

The NT likes to have the tyres at the manufacturers recommended pressure and many owners find this prevents the cupping.

Seagrass

Click to expand...

I'll second that. I am very happy with my PR-4s

Well,I just had Michelin's installed. Feels much better
I picked up a Ram mount X grip while there. Anyone use the tether that comes with it?

you don't need a tether!!!!!!!!!!!! on my out west trip summer 2015, riding westbound on I-70 just past Vail, hit a bunch of huge bumps, my smartphone flew up in the air. Came back down, bounced off top of tank, and I caught it while still going 65 mph. Said whew!! , put it back on, a few miles later, more bunches of bumps, again, flew up in air, and I caught it in mid air! Phone cradle has a clamshell holder that was on a homemade piece of aluminum. So when I got back home I took it back to work and milled a slot in backside to hold in that clamshell thin clip part. On the heavy bumps it would compress downward and spring right up and off. Only did those 2 times.

but wow, on I-70 in those snowy mountains, the chains from the semi trucks wear a grooves way down in asphalt.


SOOO you might want a tether!!