Id4rob
Guest
When taking off for my morning drive to work last week at 5:30 am, I didn't even get through our cul de sac before I realized I had not headlight. I went back to the driveway, stopped, toggled the highbeam and tapped on the light, but it was no go. I popped the seat and checked to 20A fuse but it was good. So, I parked it on the garage and jumped in my truck.
Saturday I started pursuing the lengthy and time-consuming process of removing almost all plastic forward of the seat in order to access the headlight. In retrospect, this was a lack of good judgement. After all, what's the likelihood of both bulbs going out at the same time. Anywho, after an hour and a half or so, I get to where I can test both lights with a jumper. Both are good.
Next item up for bid is the relay. So, I begin taking off more if the remaining plastic. I manage to remove the relays without fully removing the left saddlebag. I check the operation of the relay. Sure enough, it cycles. Now when I check it against the test procedure in the Honda shop manual (the one from Honda), their relay testing procedure is incorrect. This caused me some delay as I began to question my knowledge of such things.
After reassuring myself of the accuracy of my knowledge, I sat on my Summit Racing roll-around stool cussing and trying to figure out what I had missed. To help, I took a look at the wiring diagram thinking I may have missed something. That's right! On newer cars and motorcycles when you hit the started, current to the headlight is interrupted so you have full power to the starter. From my stool, I reached up to the right handlebar with my right thumb, punched the start button a few times, turned the key and wheeled around to the front. Voila! Headlight is on.
Hopefully, you will have read this before experiencing a similar carbon buildup on the N/C contacts if your start button.
Saturday I started pursuing the lengthy and time-consuming process of removing almost all plastic forward of the seat in order to access the headlight. In retrospect, this was a lack of good judgement. After all, what's the likelihood of both bulbs going out at the same time. Anywho, after an hour and a half or so, I get to where I can test both lights with a jumper. Both are good.
Next item up for bid is the relay. So, I begin taking off more if the remaining plastic. I manage to remove the relays without fully removing the left saddlebag. I check the operation of the relay. Sure enough, it cycles. Now when I check it against the test procedure in the Honda shop manual (the one from Honda), their relay testing procedure is incorrect. This caused me some delay as I began to question my knowledge of such things.
After reassuring myself of the accuracy of my knowledge, I sat on my Summit Racing roll-around stool cussing and trying to figure out what I had missed. To help, I took a look at the wiring diagram thinking I may have missed something. That's right! On newer cars and motorcycles when you hit the started, current to the headlight is interrupted so you have full power to the starter. From my stool, I reached up to the right handlebar with my right thumb, punched the start button a few times, turned the key and wheeled around to the front. Voila! Headlight is on.
Hopefully, you will have read this before experiencing a similar carbon buildup on the N/C contacts if your start button.
