A Question from the electrically challenged

[daler]

I received my led brake light towers and brake light strobe for Superbrightleds.com. I installed the the towers without a hitch and they work great. Can anyone tell me the best place to tie into the brake light line and what color it is.
Thanks in advance,Clint

 

[Dee G]

That's where I tapped into mine. One the taillight side of the plug.

 

[daler]

Ok I have another electrical related question. I installed aux lights ( I decided to use the front reflector brackets) but still need to hook them up. I also want to install a 12volt outlet for my Garmin. Do I need to install a fusebox or something similar?
Thanks, Clint

 

[RedLdr1]

Do I need to install a fusebox or something similar?

If you are through with electrical farkles no, you don't need to add a fuse box. For now running a line to the battery, with an in line fuse, will get your 12V outlet working. But if you are going to add more electrical "stuff" you will find adding a fuse box makes life a lot easier. Personally I would add one now rather than rewire everything later as I know I'd being adding more "stuff" eventually...

 

[kenstone]

I just bought this fuse block...but have not installed it yet:redface:
Uses the same fuses as the NT
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10420/10002/-1
:smile:

 

[charlie b]

It does depend on how much you think you might add later.

For my uses (heated grips, GPS and phone) I just used the supplied accessory connection under the left fairing. I got the Honda harness as well. Not really needed, but, it was only $15 and it meant I didn't have to hack into the bike's wiring harness. It is fused for 10A and is switched.

I installed a powerlet and cig lighter socket in the right fairing pocket. The powerlet was used for the heated grips. Cig lighter for phone. I made up a 5V inline converter and wired the GPS direct. If I had it to do over I'd skip the powerlet and just install the cig lighter. Wire heated grips direct to the accy harness.

When I had some LED front marker lights I also wired them into that harness.

If you are going to add some higher power stuff, like driving lights and heated jackets and such, then an additional fuze block would be in order. It is easy to add later.

Last, cig lighter socket location. I would not put it in the fairing pocket again. I'd find a spot on the dash to install it. The 'grills' would be a good spot. I just found that the pocket is such a handy thing to have it is a shame to have to work around wires in there. On most trips I even removed the lid so I could get to stuff in there while riding (at least when not raining ).

 

[Dee G]

I'd find a spot on the dash to install it. The 'grills' would be a good spot.

When I have the energy to remove the dash again, that's where I'll be putting a power outlet for the GPS. Won't be the standard cig lighter one, though. I'm thinking a BMW style or even a recessed ASE.

 

[charlie b]

I had the beemer style (Powerlet is the commercial name) and only used it for the heated grips. It is a bit overpriced (remember, beemer). And they think their adapters are made of gold as well. It is a much better quality outlet, and if you are going to be using >10A acc then it is the way to go.

Recessed ASE would be better. Or the marine style USB receptacles (which I will get one of these days to replace the cig lighter on the dash).

I also have three USB outlets in my 'trunk'. These are cig lighter adapters that I dismantled and then put in a 'custom' housing inside the case. That way I can charge my backup battery and tablet while riding during the day.

 

[Phil Tarman]

I've got my GPS hard-wired to my Fuzeblock. Then I've got cigarette lighter cords for both cars.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

Ok I have another electrical related question. I installed aux lights ( I decided to use the front reflector brackets) but still need to hook them up. I also want to install a 12volt outlet for my Garmin. Do I need to install a fusebox or something similar?
Thanks, Clint

A bit more work initially as folks stated but if neatness counts and you have a real aversion to wires hanging of the battery terminals, a nice fuse block is a great way to go. Just make sure it will have the capacity to run what you want. Some fuse blocks are more limited in their max circuit capacity. Fuzeblock for example (a very nice product) is limited to 10amps per circuit while others (PC-8 from EasternBeaver) can handle 15-20amps. 10amps for example would not be sufficient to power a full set of heated gear. Just make sure you know what you need before you settle on a fuse panel if you decide to go that route.

 

[kenstone]

I've got my GPS hard-wired to my Fuzeblock. Then I've got cigarette lighter cords for both cars.

Phil:
Please be easy on me here, as I'm electronically challanged, but are there not electronics in that GPS power cord end that fits into the cigarette lighter type power source?
By wiring it direct to a 12v source are you bypassing anything?
just askin'
Ken

 

[RedLdr1]

but are there not electronics in that GPS power cord end that fits into the cigarette lighter type power source?

Maybe, it depends on the input power requirements of your GPS. Older GPS units used -12VDC, newer ones tend to be USB or Mini-USB inputs with much lower power requirements that the "electronics" in the cord reduce to -3-5VDC. My ancient Lowrance GPS has nothing in the lighter adapter but a old school glass 3Amp Buss Fuse.... Check the Owners Manual of your device (GPS, Radar Detector, Phone, etc) for the actual required input voltage....

 

[Phil Tarman]

By wiring it direct to a 12v source are you bypassing anything?

Ken, i've got an older Garmin 2730 Street Pilot. It will accept a fairly wide range of voltages. I got a cord that had a cigarette lighter plug on it, but didn't have a cigarette lighter plug on the bike. My Motorcycle Larry Bar Riser Clamp had a powerlet outlet in it. I've seen cigarette plugs get corroded because they're not very waterproof. So I just cut the plug off and wired direct to the Fuzeblock.

 

[daler]

This is what I have coming soon.
http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-12V-Receptacle-Blk-Plas/dp/B000NI1BI4
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10420/10002/-1

Clint

 

[Rich]

I think all the GPS units made for MC use come with, or have available, direct-wiring harnesses. And the Street-Pilot and both Zumos I've had all pulled at 14 volts and did voltage conversion internally.

When it comes to GPSs designed just for auto use, or using a smartphone to deliver your GPS, you're likely to have a USB-based power delivery. If you don't use a USB adapter supplied with the device, listen up: Not all USB power outputs are created equal. In particular you need to pay attention to the available output amps. Many USB adapters are limited to 1/2 amp at 5 volts. And it's not uncommon to have a device that wants a full 1.0 amp. And if the adapter has multiple output ports, the amperage rating typically applies to the sum of the current of all ports.

I have what one might call a "Swiss Army Knife" power adapter I use when I travel. It takes input voltage from 110-240 V AC or 10-30 V DC and provides a mini-USB cable for my Samsung phone and a general purpose USB Type A socket for whatever. However, its total output is a max 1 amp. My iPad Mini eats up that amp all by itself. The unit has some sort of internal protection against overcurrent and would not charge either device if both are connected - getting really, really warm in the process. It will charge both fine if done serially.

I have another adapter I use in my plane that takes 10-30 VDC and provides two USB ports at a total 1.5 amp. This would work fine for my iPad used for ADS-B and Chart presentation. But I also have a combined WAAS GPS/ ADS-B receiver that, were I desire to power it during flight would require 2.1 amp a 5V. This would require a special adapter. The manufacturer provides these as an accessory and I will probably need to get theirs.

 

[charlie b]

I second all that. I found out the hard way when I ended up only being able to charge one thing at a time, back when I had four items to charge up.

Now days I only carry two, the phone and the backup battery. I have a special double USB receptacle that charges the battery. The phone also needs a higher capacity supply when I use it on the bike as my do all device (phone, music, GPS and weather). Shop carefully.

PS one last thing. If you ride in rain a lot I'd suggest that you install your cig lighter receptacle inside a side pocket or other weather protected area. Same with the Powerlet. If you really want an external connection then find a waterproof type connector.

 

[Rich]

PS one last thing. If you ride in rain a lot I'd suggest that you install your cig lighter receptacle inside a side pocket or other weather protected area. Same with the Powerlet. If you really want an external connection then find a waterproof type connector.

I, in turn, second that. SAE connectors are OK to get wet, though I periodically re-goop them with dielectric grease.

 

[daler]

I purchased the below switch for my 2 new aux lights. Will one switch handle both lights or do I need two switches?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/led-indicator-spst-round-rocker-switch/542/
Jus wondering, Clint

 

[RedLdr1]

Will one switch handle both lights or do I need two switches?

If I remember correctly you bought two 10W aux lights... That is 20W Power total... Your switch is spec'ed at 15 AMPs maximum at 12VDC (E). The Power (Wattage) your switch will handle is determined by the formula P= I*E. So if I (Amperage) = 15 Amps and E (Voltage) = 12VDC the max Power the switch can handle is 180W. No problems there....

If you would like to learn more about wiring check out the book I reviewed Here. It is a really good resource for someone just starting out in the electrical farkle world...