A small saftey issue - sidestand pivot bolt

Coyote Chris

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I took off my kickstand today to drill and tap the pad for my testing of my designs of bigfoot pads.
The Sidestand pivot nut (manual page 3-25) was supposed to be torqued to 21 ft lbs. It wasn't even figure tight.
Even if it had fallen off, the pivot bolt would have still been threaded into the kickstand, so there was no danger of it falling out.
Even so, it would be interesting to see if anyone else's pivot nut has loosened up over time.....parts falling off are never a good thing.
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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ref: wood....Very funny!. I will take better pics when the sun returns.....I chose Aluminum cause it was easier to work with. Steel would have worked as well .

I wouldn't use spray as there is plenty of grease in there when I took mine apart. If you use a pressure washer (I don't) to wash your bike, you might want to take out the bolt and lube it once in awhile...just be sure to use the coin trick on the kickstand spring. Piece of cake.



That wouldn't be any fun! I just had a look at the manual and noticed that they want us to lube that pivot point..which I haven't done since owning it. Better go use some spray teflon and check the nut, too.

I like the warm charm of the wood. Spray lacquer and call it done??
 
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Yes, on both the Guzzi and my 71 Honda I have had the pivot bolt come out. Yes, far enough that the stand collapsed.

When you check it I'd suggest red loctite.
 

junglejim

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It only took a few minutes to remove the side stand and weld on a piece of steel.
IMG_0017.jpg
 

junglejim

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what kind of a welder do you have, Jim? I've got an oxy-propane cutting rig, but am looking to get a 120 v stick welder for small jobs. Any suggestions?
I have a AC/DC stick welder and a MIG wire feed welder. Both my stick welder and wire feed require a 50 Amp 240 V service. I'm not a fan of 120v stick welders, because they just aren't big enough to do much. If you are committed to 120v then a small wire feed machine is the way to go. You will have the option of using flux core wire or solid wire. Flux core does not require argon gas, but the solid core does. Flux core spatters and smokes a lot and welds require a lot of clean-up. Solid core with the argon makes a much smoother weld, but doesn't work well outdoors on a windy day, because the wind blows the argon shielding gas away. The flux core works better outdoors, but is smokes a lot so you need good ventilation indoors. Most welders will run either kind of wire. You will have to buy the argon separately, but flux core wire costs more than solid wire so costs aren't much different.

ESAB makes a machine that does MIG, TIG, and stick, but they are a little pricy and ESABs are noisy as well. My machines are Hobart and Miller, but all the manufacturers make pretty good machines for casual use.

Oh - ya, I've tried welding with a screw driver and a wrench while working near a battery - not recommended.
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Great looking job, Jim. I wanted to try different sizes and shapes and thicknesses. Hence the screw holes.
It only took a few minutes to remove the side stand and weld on a piece of steel.
IMG_0017.jpg
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Oh yeah, strength is not the issue. Shape and size is. The clearance between the side stand folding up and the centerstand is small. I wanted to use thick AL to put the bike in more of an upright attitude and have done so but the clearance is tight. Horizontal size is important at Reno and some Nat. Forest campgrounds so the stand doesn't sink into the ground during the night. I have seen some places where one beer can isn't enough....and then there are the fooler places like asphalt parking lots in the Midwest in the summer that can semi-liquify....
Man, if you can pull those springs you are definitely not an old man with arthritis! :D
even better...no spray necessary. I like working with Al - given that they have plastic sidestand feet, the "prototype" should be strong enough, shouldn't it?

I've never kept my spare change in the sidestand spring before, but that's a good trick. Always have it with you...a little awkward at toll booths, however. You must be very limber. (I just use a vice-grip and swear a bunch when I replace those things. Good trick, thanks.)
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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IIRC, Honda used red Locktite on the side stand safety switch retaining bolt...good stuff.

Yes, on both the Guzzi and my 71 Honda I have had the pivot bolt come out. Yes, far enough that the stand collapsed.

When you check it I'd suggest red loctite.
 
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If you want a welder then the advice is good, but, the MIG is the only choice for someone who has not welded much. Much easier to learn and like he said, choice between gas and flux core.

When I used them I used gas only (CO2 or Argon depending on the material being welded). The ability to not have to mess with the flux is the best part.
 

junglejim

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I wanted to try different sizes and shapes and thicknesses. Hence the screw holes.
I don't blame you Chris. If you're not sure you don't want a permanent booboo. But it is possible to "un-weld" and do it again. Don't ask how I know that.
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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I really admire good welding...in aircraft mechanics school, I did mostly gas welding on aircraft steel tubing...I could make a great candelabra but I an not so sure I would want to fly in a plane I did the welding on!
I know three good souls who live close to me who can do real welding, if I need it, thankfully.....sparks and heat scare me...don't ask me how I know this....
Chris who also uses deck screws instead of nails so he can fix mistakes......

I don't blame you Chris. If you're not sure you don't want a permanent booboo. But it is possible to "un-weld" and do it again. Don't ask how I know that.
 
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Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Thank you. Yes, it is true.....or, to put it another way...to Quote Dirty Harry, "A man's got to know his limitations...."
it has been said that the smartest people know their limitations and adjust for them.
 
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IIRC, Honda used red Locktite on the side stand safety switch retaining bolt...good stuff.
Unfortunately, Honda's red color thread locker is actually their medium strength thread locker. The red Honda thread locker would be more closely associated with the blue thread locker from Locktite. Honda uses green as their high strength thread locker color. Honda's green would relate to Locktite's Red.

I wouldn't use red Locktite on that nut. Blue Locktite or a medium thread locker would be plenty sufficient. Mine was not loose when I removed the stand and lubed it last year.
 
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I used Locktite red on my Guzzi sidestand pivot bolt. I don't want it to ever come off again.
 
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