Accessing the Throttle Position Sensor connector

Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
133
Location
Northern Virginia
I thought of posting this with the title: "Not another 8-flash MIL Throttle Position Sensor thread." But I still think my experience may be useful.

The connector plug for the TPS can be reached via the right side mid-cowl (the black cowl with the vents in front.) You don't need to remove much plastic, lift the tank, or take off the air cleaner. Actually the Honda shopmanual also indicates this is possible. Its pretty easy but you'll need an inspection mirror and a flashlight. (This only gets you to the connector at the TSP; not to the TSP itself which is mounted in the throttle body assembly with tamper-resistant screws.)

I took the seat off, removed the right mid-cowl (one screw and tabs), and took off the snap-on plastic piece above the brake pedal and below the seat. I also took off the plastic cover over the tip-over protector (one allen screw and tabs.) It was helpful to remove some of the fastenings on the rear part of the right lower cowl (the body colored cowl), so the back end can swing away from the bike slightly. At this point you may be able to see the blue TSP plug hidden behind the box-section frame with an inspection mirror. Its kind of aft of the spark plug cap. I removed the two bolts holding the expansion tank and let it hang on its hoses out of the mid cowl opening. I also unbolted the tip-over bar from the frame. I gently let the tip-over bar drop down inside the lower cowl; you don't need to take it out altogether.

With these steps done, again using the inspection mirror and a flashlight, you can see the blue plastic TSP connector behind the frame. Notice the blue release tab on the edge of the connector. Its a tight fit, but you should be able to push in on the blue release tab, while gently pulling down and back on the male plug. The three prong plug should come off without a fight.

Why did I do this? Over past year and a half, after changing battery, spark plug caps, and voltage regulator, I still have an occasional eight flash MIL problem, very rarely accompanied by hiccups/stumbling on the highway. Happens infrequently and its never actually stopped me. All the fixes I have tried seemed to help for a while, but then the problem would return. My symptoms are exactly like those described by Rmcapozzi, including in his video, though perhaps not as frequently.

Taking off the TSP plug and hitting it with a bit of WD-40 is one of my last efforts before buying the throttle body assembly (best price currently about $580.)

After refitting the connector the bike is running fine, but I will not claim victory until I have at least 6 months without an MIL. Even if I get another MIL, now that I know how to do it, I may try the connector again, this time with a bit of dielectic grease. Now that I know how to do it, its about a 25 minute job.
 

DirtFlier

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Dec 13, 2010
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3,342
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Troy, OH
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2010 Silver NT700V/ABS
I've made it a habit when checking valve clearance to use dielectric grease on every connector that is disconnected and even some that aren't disconnected during the job. That stuff is cheap when you consider the price of just one sensor!

I did have a Crank Position Sensor exhibit an intermittent no-start situation after hot soak during a long trip but I was always able to restart the engine. Once home, the MIL pointed to that sensor so I replaced it and the problem has never returned.
 
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Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
464
Location
Leesburg, Virginia
Bike
2010 Silver NT700
It is a tight fit to the plug. When investigating the issue myself, I could see it when removing the right side cover but I "gave in" and just went in from the top side. I hadn't considered taking off all the additional items you did. It sounds like a lot of stuff to take off/loosen but it would be quicker than going in from the top if you can coax the plug off the connector.

If the connection is the problem (assuming the other connections in the wire harness and the wires themselves are okay), I would think you would need to do something to improve the contact of the terminals. Are the terminals not making good contact with each other? Is their evidence of corrosion on the terminals?

Honda actually has a little tool that the shops can use to determine if the connectors are properly adjusted and making a good mechanical connection. If the connection terminals are not making good contact, you would slightly bend/crimp/tweak the terminals on the connectors to improve their mechanical connection. Dielectric grease will definitely help prevent additional corrosion of the terminals. All of this of course would likely require going in from the top side for better access.

You may want to look at doing this if you believe the connector connection to be poor.

Since replacement of the throttle body the MIL 8 hasn't returned. That was about 8k miles ago. :cool:
 
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