Anyone with experience with the front engine mount

[loonytuna]

I am struggling with highway pegs.

At my age i find repositioning my legs every now and then a necessity rather than just for comfort.

I'm thinking about removing the bolt that attaches the engine to the frame (see picture) and extending it with a longer piece of threaded rod that can be used to attach pegs to. For me, the positioning should be about right.

It's just one option and I'd like to know if anyone has had this bolt out and any cautions?

I've considered drilling the frame just above this bolt, but am concerned about the structural integrity. As an option, does anyone have any ideas about something that might clamp onto this piece of frame?

 

[Rocky]

I really have no experiance with those engine mounting bolts but would suggest remove only one at a time, and have a jack or similiar under the engine that can be adjusted in case something slips and the hole does not line up perfect for the insertion of the "peg" bolt. Make sure the threaded rod is of a good hardness that matches or exceeds the stock bolt, I would not trust a foot peg lenth of standard hardware store allthread. I would NEVER drill a hole in the frame member. Back in day when I had my first enduro bikes some company had clamp on rear foot pegs that would clamp to the swing arm so I could put my girlfriend on the back. There must be someone who still makes those!

 

[loonytuna]

I like the clamp on idea, I've been searching!

It looks like it's one bolt all the way through, it concerns me too, that's why I asked!

thanks!!!

 

[EX Winger]

May I suggest the HEPCO BECKER tankguard , that is what they call it, it realy is more of a tip-over guard. Once you have it on you have plenty of mounting area for freeway pegs. Ther are two possible set that both work very well. both of them from Kurakin, mine are what are made for a HondaGL1500, or a Valkarie. They give me almost the identical position as I have on my 01 Harley Ultra Classic. The othr set of pegs mounted to the Hepco becker system are listed in some of teh older forums on this subject. This is not a cheap way, the Hepco Becker unit is arround $350.00 and the kuryakin set of freeway pegs arround $150.00, BUT THEY WORK. Some of our people have said the HB guard is UGLEY, it comes woth black paint, I suppose you could get it chromed , and I won't even try to gues what that would cost. On my stealthy black 2011 the black bar work is not real noticable ,

Too me if they do the job and give me the comfort I would not worry about color , or cost of aquiring them, Look at it this way , if you get them and put them on and then don't like them you can probably recover most of your investment with the classified section. If you come to the spearfish event you can try mine and see for yourselfe how well they work,

Eldon

 

[loonytuna]

I think on your black bike the Hepco is okay, but on my red one it sticks out like the proverbial sore thumb.

If I try to paint it etc, I think it would either be a disaster (me trying to paint) or very expensive (having it painted) on top of the actual cost.

But I really appreciate the input!

May I suggest the HEPCO BECKER tankguard , that is what they call it, it realy is more of a tip-over guard. Once you have it on you have plenty of mounting area for freeway pegs. Ther are two possible set that both work very well. both of them from Kurakin, mine are what are made for a HondaGL1500, or a Valkarie. They give me almost the identical position as I have on my 01 Harley Ultra Classic. The othr set of pegs mounted to the Hepco becker system are listed in some of teh older forums on this subject. This is not a cheap way, the Hepco Becker unit is arround $350.00 and the kuryakin set of freeway pegs arround $150.00, BUT THEY WORK. Some of our people have said the HB guard is UGLEY, it comes woth black paint, I suppose you could get it chromed , and I won't even try to gues what that would cost. On my stealthy black 2011 the black bar work is not real noticable ,

Too me if they do the job and give me the comfort I would not worry about color , or cost of aquiring them, Look at it this way , if you get them and put them on and then don't like them you can probably recover most of your investment with the classified section. If you come to the spearfish event you can try mine and see for yourselfe how well they work,

Eldon

 

[EX Winger]

Well it would stand out, but no more than the black seat, I must agree with you regarding the painting. In todays world there is so much involved with painting that trying to match, or use the same Red color Honda used would be a extreme project to be attempted at home. I have past paint shop experience, I painted my 66 harley in 1972, when you could still get plain laqure and it was a long project & I said never again, then in 1983 I decided to do a complete paint on a 1951 cheve 5 window P/U. I did it in arcrilic enamel, again a major job and I said never again. Thus far I have listened to that advise. The black paint on the HB bars is not high quality paint, if I were into it for a show bike I would have had mine powder coated.
You might try talking to a couple of paint shops in your area and show them pictures of the HB and get a estimate. The prep work on them as they come to you would not be real extreme, some 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper and maybe 1 or 2 hours of your time would have them ready for shooting.

 

[Warren]

Didn't Katherine work with some company on highway pegs for the NT ?

 

[DirtFlier]

Threaded rod (sometimes known as "all thread") is not a hard steel and no where near the quality of the engine
mounting bolts. Engine mounting bolts only have threads on the very end to give the shank more strength.
My guess is that threaded rod is Grade 3 or below - just an informal observation on how easy it can be cut with a normal hacksaw.

 

[loonytuna]

I appreciate this, I'd need grade 8.

I may be able to have a piece of rod threaded.

Thanks to everyone so far, it is helping!

Threaded rod (sometimes known as "all thread") is not a hard steel and no where near the quality of the engine
mounting bolts. Engine mounting bolts only have threads on the very end to give the shank more strength.
My guess is that threaded rod is Grade 3 or below - just an informal observation on how easy it can be cut with a normal hacksaw.

 

[DirtFlier]

If you were just making highway peg frames that DID NOT use the engine mounting bolts, it wouldn't be necessary to have something as hard as Grade 8. On the front of the engine is an unused mounting lug - perhaps you could make and mount something using that lug as the one of the supports?

 

[loonytuna]

Do you mean all the way at the bottom front of the motor?

 

[charlie b]

I would not use the highway bar/engine mount bolt as a combination. Too much could go wrong.

Clamp it to a frame member or tip over bars.

 

[loonytuna]

Thanks to all!

I found a better way.

Charlie - You had the right idea, I just had to find the right clamp and location, so thanks!

T really appreciate everyone's input!

 

[Rich]

I would not use the highway bar/engine mount bolt as a combination. Too much could go wrong.

Clamp it to a frame member or tip over bars.

Seconded (or thirded or whatever). Consider this:

On the NT (as with many bikes, including, for example, the ST1300), the engine is a stressed member. That is, it's part of the frame. And the mounting bolts are also part of the frame. If you replace a mounting bolt, it must not only have the same strength and temperature expansion characteristics as the original, it must also have the same diameter. Otherwise your frame is no longer as rigid as it was. Consider the consequences of adding wiggle-room into your frame.

 

[RedLdr1]

How about putting an "arm" bracket off of the bolt the holds the steel hoop tip over wing to the frame? You could adjust the angle to what you need , then notch the black plastic wing cover to allow it to hang down. By changing the angle, and length of the bracket you can find the right position for your highway pegs.... I suspect the hard part will be working around the emission canister on the left side....

 

[Phil Tarman]

If I try to paint it etc, I think it would either be a disaster (me trying to paint) or very expensive (having it painted) on top of the actual cost.

What about powder-coating it in a charcoal or titanium-ish finish?

 

[axamax]

I suspect the hard part will be working around the emission canister on the left side....

Can the canister not be removed? Even the 2011 bikes don't have it over here. If it anything like the ones on the K1200LT it can cause problems if it gets clogged. That's why most perform a "canisterectomy"

 

[tawilke46]

Can the canister not be removed? Even the 2011 bikes don't have it over here. If it anything like the ones on the K1200LT it can cause problems if it gets clogged. That's why most perform a "canisterectomy

As long as it does not cause a problem with the emissions system and maybe result in drivability problems. I would imagine in order to not void the warranty, you have to wait until the bike is passed the warranty date.

 

[RedLdr1]

Can the canister not be removed? Even the 2011 bikes don't have it over here.

It is part of the US Emissions "stuff" and I don't know what impact, if any, removing it might cause...

 

[Rmcapozzi]

Interesting. I suppose the EVAP system could have problems but the only reasons for a EVAP canister getting "clogged" that I've run across is generally a self-inflicted wound.

• Pinching the lines when performing maintenance. It can happen although the NT's lines aren't all that complex on their runs.
• Over filling the fuel tank (the #1 reason for EVAP "clogging" that I've seen)

Fill the tank up to much and the fuel can expand and run into the EVAP canister. This is especially likely if you fill the tank up when the motor is warm and then let the bike sit for a long time. Following Honda's fueling instructions should avoid this problem entirely.

When the EVAP canister gets filled with fuel, you'll begin to smell a strong fuel smell when the bike is turned off or sitting stationary. You may even see fuel dripping out of the EVAP canister. I don't think there is any other problems with the bike running when this happens though. Perhaps one of the more experienced techs on this board knows.

I really like the EVAP equipped bikes. You don't get the smelly fuel vapor exiting the fuel tank. This is especially noticeable when I return from a ride and park the bike in the garage. On non-EVAP bikes, I'd have to wait a good 2+ hours for the bike to "bleed off" fuel vapor (especially bad in the summer).:frown: With the EVAP equipped bikes, I can park the bike in the garage and close the door with zero fuel vapor smell. :smile:

I don't think disconnecting the EVAP is difficult. Don't know if the NT's onboard diagnostics are complex enough to throw a code if it is disconnected (probably not). I find the EVAP more of a plus than a minus though.

Can the canister not be removed? Even the 2011 bikes don't have it over here. If it anything like the ones on the K1200LT it can cause problems if it gets clogged. That's why most perform a "canisterectomy"