Arizona sunsets, twisties, and GRINS...

Yoda

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A few weeks ago here, charlieb mentioned a great riders' road in Eastern Arizona. What an understatement! A superb ride. But with a sad twist.

I've driven a LOT of roads in the southwest USA, but never the "Devil's Highway" 191 from Alpine to Clifton (formerly Hwy 666) in east central Arizona. Without question, it is a great motorcycle road. Curve after curve for more than 3 hours, with long sweepers, tight hairpins, and more to delight anyone. This road is worth going WAY out of the way to ride. I'm glad I did. This is one of the ONLY roads I have ever ridden that occasionally had me slowing down to an ACTUAL 10 mph on a corner marked for 10. That is very rare, accurate highway signage.

I pre-planned for a 3 day trip, to allow enough time to savor the road, take photo's, and stop to smell the roses. This trip was also a 'tune-up' for my 7 day trip with B.J. Strauss, and his 'BigAssScooters' group of 12 touring scooters coming up in mid-June. That will be a 5 day, 4 nite excursion of the best of Colorado roads (plus to and from time from Albuquerque) aptly titled "Rockin' the Rockies." Peak to peak, and more, starting and ending in Golden. I wanted to investigate the load carrying capacity and handling of my Burgman, and I am pleased.

Back to this trip. I slabbed westbound on I-40 nearly to Grants, exiting onto NM Hwy 117. A beautiful road in its own right, it meanders southwesterly through the El Malpais lava flows, then crossing high prairie grass fields to Quemado. After fueling, straight west on Hwy 60 to the twin cities of Springerville, and Eagar Arizona. After only 213 miles, I holed up for the night, after a great burger and sweet potato fries at the Blue Java cafe. Even though I had waited for some good weather to make this run, I was surprised by 29 degrees the next morning. I layered up and headed south on Hwy 180 into the Apache National Forest. At some point, the road signs say "Coronado Trail Scenic Byway." At Alpine, the road became Hwy 191. Now, this is what I came for! But, a few miles down the road, the burned out forest slapped me in the face. Mile after mile of tall forests: pines, aspen and more, were scorched, burned and destroyed. A sad sight that I hadn't expected.

The burned forests went on for miles. Then, just as quickly, they were gone and replaced by cool green pines. I continued south to Clifton, where the glorious twisty's came to an end. But what an end! At Morenci, Arizona, I stopped to take in the view of one of the largest open pit copper mines in the world. An amazing sight that took my widest lens to take it all in. By then, the temp had climbed into the high 80's. I had seen elevations from 7000 ft in Springerville, to a high of 8500 feet, then back down to 3500 ft in Duncan. I ate lunch, stripped off layers, and opened up my jacket vents.

I finished the second day riding Hwy 75 across typical southwestern desert to Lordsburg, NM, then back up into the cooler air on Hwy 90 to Silver City. It's a modern town also created by the money earned mining. Used to be silver, but most recently huge copper mines rivaling the Morenci mine in Arizona. I believe without all the copper mined in this two state area, there wouldn't be much electricity flowing anywhere. I called it a day in Silver City after 272 miles of twisty grins, capped off with a steak and a cold brew.

Heading east from Silver City on Hwy 152 the next morning, I knew the mountain road well that went through Hillsboro. I stopped for a fresh cup of hot coffee on the front porch of the Hillsboro General Store, which had a sign saying it opened up in the late 1800's. This is also a good road for motorcycles, but all the fun ends when you reach I-25 at the Caballo Reservoir on the Rio Grande. At that point, I just had to slog the last 150 miles back to the big city and home.

3 days total 756 miles
12.038 gal gas
62.80 mpg
 

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Phil Tarman

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Good report w/ great pictures! Another bucket list ride...
 
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If you want another little scenic road in that area take NM15 from Silver City to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. The first part can be a bit dicey if on a weekend as the road is frequently narrow enough to not have a centerline. I say weekends cause it is a popular area for family camping and there will be a lot of cars on that road.

The 'other way' back to ABQ from Clifton is to take NM 78 to US 180. Both of those are nice roads for riding. Be careful of some of the parts with tire ruts in them. They can toss your bike out of a turn (yes, I was almost killed by one of those). Turn off US180 at NM12 to Reserve and then either continue on 12 or go up to US60 on NM 32.

If you are riding a dual sport then take NM 159 from US180 across the Gila Nat For. It is a decently maintained dirt road and some good scenery.

Fire damage. Almost EVERY area in this part of the country will have fire damage. Just a fact out here. The sad part is that most is from man-made causes, either deliberate (the area around Show-Low) or due to carelessness (the Alpine and Gila areas). The Apache and Gila Nat Forests have fires every year. Most are contained quickly but others are in terrain that even air tankers have a hard time getting in to.

And now is a good time to thank all those who fight those fires, especially the Hot Spot teams. After riding on US191 imagine taking 100lb of stuff on your back into those mountains to fight a fire for weeks on end. The fire around Alpine was notable for the defense of Hannigan's Meadow, Alpine and Nutrioso. Even in Greer only a few homes were lost (they were all tucked back in the woods). Those folks drew a line on the map and held it, even when the fire jumped over them and surrounded these towns.
 

Phil Tarman

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The DAR Pioneer Woman statue reminded me of the Pioneer Woman statue in Ponca City, OK. I thought it might be a copy, but it isn't. This is what it is (from Wikipedia):

"Madonna of the Trail is a series of 12 monuments dedicated to the spirit of pioneer women in the United States. The monuments were commissioned by the National Society of Daughters of the American Revolution (NSDAR). They were installed in each of the 12 states along the National Old Trails Road, which extended from Cumberland, Maryland, to Upland, California.

"Created by sculptor August Leimbach and funded by contributions, the Madonna of the Trail monuments were intended to provide a symbol of the courage and faith of the women whose strength and love aided so greatly in conquering the wilderness and establishing permanent homes. Dedicated in 1928 and 1929, the twelve statues became sources of local pride. Through the continuing efforts of local and national groups, all are currently in good condition and on display."
 
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Thanx for this, Rich. Good writing and photos.

And - nice to see somebody else riding a Burgie 400 like you do. Just about a year ago, I was riding my Burgman in that area (spent the night in Eagar) on the way to Las Vegas. Glad to know you found the bike that is perfect for you.

Like others have noted - you're the reason for my adding this ride on the Devil's Highway to my bucket list.
 
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The pic of the Morenci mine shows only a very small portion. The big open pit mines are beautiful and horrible at the same time.

You can get a small idea of the size by using Google and zooming in with the satellite view. It is one of the larger mines.
https://www.google.com/maps/@33.1068297,-109.2955421,31082m/data=!3m1!1e3

Most of that area of AZ and NM is used for copper mining. Some have been abandoned, like Playas, NM and others like Morenci are still going.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lists_of_copper_mines_in_the_United_States
 
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Enjoyed the ride report . Got me excited as I'm planning on doing the Coronado Trail south to north at the end of May and continue on up to Moab before heading east and back out thru Pueblo, Co.
 

Phil Tarman

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Greg,

If you come through Pueblo, let me know when you're going to be there. I'm in Rocky Ford, 50 miles from Pueblo on US-50. Maybe we could have another lunch.
 
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