clock and trip odometers reset each start

[cliffh]

I recently completed a valve adjustment. After putting everything back together, I notice that the clock, trip odometers, and mpg calculator reset each time the ignition switch is turned off/on. Clock always goes to 1am. Total mileage odometer works correctly and everything else seems just fine.

Any one have any ideas on what this could be or where to start?

Cliff

 

[mikesim]

Everything resetting when the igntion is turned on and the engine started is usually a good indication that the battery is headed south. If you have a voltmeter, hook it to the battery and observe the voltage while the engine is cranking. If it drops to ~9VDC or less, the battery is likely bad. Your bike is giving you a warning. Ignoring it will likely leave you afoot in the near future.

Mike

 

[JQL]

When my battery was on it's way those were the exact symptoms. Press the starter and zero the display!

 

[seagrass]

New battery time

Seagrass

 

[Coyote Chris]

One of the nice things about the old analogue voltmeters is that you could accurately see the voltage drop during starting....I test all my bike batteries and jump packs with a plain jane resistive battery tester with an analoge voltmeter,,,,,I have a brand new battery that needs filling on my work bench for my Wee strom. Gonna see how that tests.....

 

[cliffh]

Thanks for the replies. That should be easy enough to check. I'll try another battery at my son's house as soon as I can get over there. I am unable to check the cranking voltage as the bike starts instantly....no real cranking. Everything resets as soon as I turn the key on by the way, I don't have to crank to start the bike.
On the plus side, my GPS had trip odometers and a clock, so it really won't be any problem. I just like things to work correctly.
Cliff

 

[mikesim]

Hmmmm.... usually it takes a fairly substantial load for even a weakened battery to drop <9VDC unless it is terribly weak or you have additional accessories that increase the current draw. The symptoms sure sound like a bad battery though.

Mike

In rereading your post, it might still be beneficial and informative to still see what the voltage reading is after the key is turned on...

 

[rc_heli_nut]

I am going to suggest you check your fuses, all of them. Just checked my service manual schematic, there appears to be at least one fuse dedicated to supplying constant 12v power to the instruments, and other circuits.

There is also a fuse built into the starter relay, check it too.

 

[cliffh]

Hummm.....the owners manual only shows 2 fuses. 1 for fuel injection and one for everything else. Where are the other fuses located? A fuse that supplies constant 12vdc to power the clock and other memories certainly sounds like the culprit! Wish I had a shop manual.

BTW, a voltmeter shows 13.1 volts with key off, dropping over about 20 seconds to 12.2 volts with key on powering lights and fuel pump. There are no extra accessories being powered.

 

[cliffh]

PROBLEM SOLVED!! Just a simple 10A fuse. The previous owner put a tag on that side that said spare fuses.....and I didn't look any further. I feel a bit silly considering how long I've been doing my own work, but hey, problem solved, so I'm happy.

Thanks to all that helped me and especially rc-heli-nut who pointed me in the right direction. Now I know that I have several other fuses

 

[rc_heli_nut]

Glad I could help.

 

[Hondafan]

Impressive bit of troubleshooting support.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Wow....still seems odd. Obviously, in many bikes, if you take out the battery, the clock resets itself, so there has to be something from a fuse that is hot all the time to power a memory chip. If you have a bad battery, though, the voltage during startup could take the battery voltage down below 9 and dump the memory. Here, a bad/dirty/intermittant fuse could not provide the power needed when the bike was off so when he turned it on, all he was was midnight....good one. So now the mystery is...what else does that fuse power???? 10 amp is a good sized fuze. You wouldnt think it would power just the memory chip.....

 

[cliffh]

Wow....still seems odd. Obviously, in many bikes, if you take out the battery, the clock resets itself, so there has to be something from a fuse that is hot all the time to power a memory chip. If you have a bad battery, though, the voltage during startup could take the battery voltage down below 9 and dump the memory. Here, a bad/dirty/intermittant fuse could not provide the power needed when the bike was off so when he turned it on, all he was was midnight....good one. So now the mystery is...what else does that fuse power???? 10 amp is a good sized fuze. You wouldnt think it would power just the memory chip.....

Good question. I was able to download a wiring diagram, but I'll admit I get a little lost trying to follow it. I does seem though that it does just power the memory chip when power is off. I have taken a couple 225+ mile trips since replacing the fuse and everything is working perfectly. I do know that the smaller the amperage limit of the fuse, the smaller the wire inside that melts on over current situations and therefore the more likely vibration fatigue will cause the wire to fail/break. Maybe that is the reason.
Cliff

 

[rc_heli_nut]

Per the wiring diagram, there's a fuse which appears to be labeled "CLOCK" that supplies constant 12v to the instruments. So in cliff's case, he was getting switched 12v power to the instruments with the key on, but no standby 12v to keep the clock and trip odos alive key off.

I'll agree the factory manual schematic at the back of the manual is kind of hard to follow, luckily the manual is full of easier to read breakout schematics of various subsections. The full schematic is easier to read if you lay a ruler on the page. Reminds me of the tiny schematics found inside AM radios from the 70's.

 

[rc_heli_nut]

So now the mystery is...what else does that fuse power???? 10 amp is a good sized fuze. You wouldnt think it would power just the memory chip.....

After examining the schematic some more, it appears this same fuse also serves an accessory plug in the harness, it's labeled OPTION on the schematic, probably for optional Honda accessories, heated grips maybe?

 

[Coyote Chris]

After examining the schematic some more, it appears this same fuse also serves an accessory plug in the harness, it's labeled OPTION on the schematic, probably for optional Honda accessories, heated grips maybe?

Since its a "hot all the time" current sourse, I would think it would be used for any option that needs power with the key off. There are times I wish the assy outlet on bikes and cars...the old "cigarette lighter" type...were hot all the time.

 

[mikesim]

Since its a "hot all the time" current sourse, I would think it would be used for any option that needs power with the key off. There are times I wish the assy outlet on bikes and cars...the old "cigarette lighter" type...were hot all the time.

Check your owners manual. Some cars allow for the accy outlet to be constant on or switched on depending upon the position of the fuse in the fuse box.

Mike