Did the rear wheel today

[Coyote Chris]

Took off the rear wheel today and had the dealer put on my new PR3 rear, then put the wheel back. The crow' s foot 27 mm worked well on the axel nut but I need a crows foot 14 mm to get the right torque on the stop bolt.
I read all I could and watched the videos before I did all of this so for fun, I timed myself. For instance, I layed out all the tools I would need to remove the rear fender, then hit the stop watch. Took 6 min 30 seconds to get it off and
8 min and 30 seconds to get it back on at the end. I loosed the front muff attach bolt then held the rear muff attach nut and loosened the rear muff attach bolt. That took about two minutes....not sure it did much good.
Removing the wheel took about 20 minutes cause the stop bolt didnt want to come out...I could do it in 15 min now, easy.

Putting the wheel back in wasnt too bad, but I took pics I will put up on my photobucket site if anyone wants to see how to use the crow's foot.
Like most people, I pretty much used the standard technique to put the wheel back.
1. Put the wheel into the hub after lubing both, shove the axel in till it is flush on the right side of the wheel. (Dont forget the collar and slide collar)
2. Put on the caliper and shove in the stop bolt into its hole.
3. Align the caliper hole the axel goes through and using a rubber mallet, gently push and tap the axel in. Screw in pinch and stop bolts loosely.
4. Torque the axel nut, do the bouncy bouncy, and then torque the pinch bolt and caliper stop bolt.
5. retighten muff and put the fender back on. I dont see much use loosening the muff if one has the crows feet.

There are some very nice calculators on the web for converting your torque wrench readings using the crows foot.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm
The results you get are correct and intuitive....
I feel confident I could do this at a motel or even a rest stop but I really wouldnt want to do it by the side of an interstate in the safety strip....
(here are some pics)
http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/CoyoteChris303/library/#/user/CoyoteChris303/library/NT700v wheel?sort=3&page=1&_suid=1365745204772025019884410250387

 

[Chucksklrst]

Thanks for the torque wrench info. Just what I was looking for.Printed it out and put in in my maint. notes for my NT700. Also book marked the site.

When using 27mm Crows foot did you have to calculate a new torque setting. Show m a picture of the crows foot. With the 27mm crows foot and my lift I should not even have to remove the back plastic Tupperware eather. Of course I just put on a new rear PR3 on my NT 2000 miles ago.

 

[bicyclist]

The damned caliper always gives me fits. I haven't figured out the right method of getting it in and out.

 

[DirtFlier]

Although most people poo-poo the idea of removing the right saddlebag lid and saddlebag, I find it a much easier plot than removing the rear fender. The only hangup with leaving the rear fender in place is that it requires a lift with a drop out so the wheel can go down, since it won't come out of the back.

My guess is that it takes me 15-20 minutes to remove the right lid, right passenger handhold, disconnect cables, and finally the saddlebag. With that stuff removed you'll see the rear wheel and caliper right in front of your face - like on your 40" wide screen TV! No more working blind on getting things aligned or removed without damage to the rim.

I'm not working on flat rate so I don't care and mainly want to have a positive experience free of frustration and angst.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Unfortunately, the frogs like to hide under the car tires and are there when we back out.....rivit...

Good work.

I admired your paint job on the floor, too. (It's hard to beat Chuck's work space, but those frogs looked real!!)

 

[Coyote Chris]

Sure...the calulator I referenced on the web is very easy to use. But its really intuitive...if the crows foot adds 10 percent to the torque arm, the setting should be 10 percent lower....

I did a thread on how you could carry a 1 1/16 crows foot and put a half of an Enfield 303 clip on it to get it to work.....



But they are easy to find on the web.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=183039&gclid=CMCx3-jPxrYCFcR_QgodewoAzQ

This is one I just ordered...
http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-97327-2-Inch-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B000I1PLUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365821500&sr=8-1&keywords=27mm+crowfoot

Thanks for the torque wrench info. Just what I was looking for.Printed it out and put in in my maint. notes for my NT700. Also book marked the site.

When using 27mm Crows foot did you have to calculate a new torque setting. Show m a picture of the crows foot. With the 27mm crows foot and my lift I should not even have to remove the back plastic Tupperware eather. Of course I just put on a new rear PR3 on my NT 2000 miles ago.

 

[Coyote Chris]

You know what's funny about my experience? I read what everyone else had to say about this job and was ready to spout aspersions about the caliper's parentage....but for some reason, I had no issues getting it off and then on. But I felt having the rear fender off gave me the room to get my hands in there...my headlamp, which can project a spot on the moon, gave me the light I needed and it just went right on......

Although most people poo-poo the idea of removing the right saddlebag lid and saddlebag, I find it a much easier plot than removing the rear fender. The only hangup with leaving the rear fender in place is that it requires a lift with a drop out so the wheel can go down, since it won't come out of the back.

My guess is that it takes me 15-20 minutes to remove the right lid, right passenger handhold, disconnect cables, and finally the saddlebag. With that stuff removed you'll see the rear wheel and caliper right in front of your face - like on your 40" wide screen TV! No more working blind on getting things aligned or removed without damage to the rim.

I'm not working on flat rate so I don't care and mainly want to have a positive experience free of frustration and angst.

 

[coaster]

I'm about to do mine.
You had enough room to move the caliper out of the way?

 

[charlie b]

On bikes with ABS the caliper is the tought part. Feels like I am going to pull the brake line off to get it out of there. Then hold your tongue just right as you put it in the correct position to get the wheel off.

I pull the rear fender off cause I don't have a lift. Putting a board under the center stand helps.

I have also found that taking the muffler off is not that big a deal.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

On bikes with ABS the caliper is the tought part. Feels like I am going to pull the brake line off to get it out of there. Then hold your tongue just right as you put it in the correct position to get the wheel off.

I pull the rear fender off cause I don't have a lift. Putting a board under the center stand helps.

I have also found that taking the muffler off is not that big a deal.

Agreed. Taking the muffle off was pretty easy. Putting it back on was a quite a bit harder.

 

[Procsteve]

I wish I had read this thread this morning instead of tonight. It would have saved me a couple of hours or wrestling with that caliper all over the garage. I finally got it back on though and all is well.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Evidently, there are some issues for folks with ABS. With the rear fender off of my non-ABS, the caliper is no big deal, or for once in my life I got lucky. The next time, I am going to experiment on suspending it just so with multiple bungie cords but I think anyone with a stand or ramp that trys to not remove the muff or the fender is gonna have a tough time of it.

I'm about to do mine.
You had enough room to move the caliper out of the way?

 

[Chucksklrst]

As far as having room in the brake line to remove the rear caliper, Just remove the one hose clamp bolt and this give enough room to remove and let caliper hang down with out stressing the hose.

 

[Rmcapozzi]

That's what I did. It really helped. Getting at that hose clamp would be a bit challenging if you didn't remove the muffler though.

As far as having room in the brake line to remove the rear caliper, Just remove the one hose clamp bolt and this give enough room to remove and let caliper hang down with out stressing the hose.

 

[Chucksklrst]

Removing the muffler and is no big deal. Getting it back on far enough to line up the mounting holes is another story.