First oil change. Color?

[Coyote Chris]

Changed my oil today at 667 miles. Thankfully, the Gorilla of Spain that put on everyone elses oil filter was home sick when they built my bike cause the metal endcap type remover took it right off...it was tight but it worked.
I do think it odd that the oil seemed to be pretty dirty.... like what I get out of my Connie after 3,000 miles. Not black but semi-opaque. I bought my bike on 1-6-12 and rode it very little during the winter, which I hope will end soon, and just now have 667 miles on her. How did your oil look at 600 miles?

 

[garwil]

The first oil change is so early because of the high level of wear on a new motor. The rings are setting and carbon gets past and burrs get rubbed off. After the initial break in, this slows dow dramatically.

 

[Phil Tarman]

What he said! First oil changes aren't pretty things. Now, an 8,000-mile oil change looks better than that.

 

[Coyote Chris]

What he said! First oil changes aren't pretty things. Now, an 8,000-mile oil change looks better than that.

Thanks! I feel better.....esspresso anyone?

 

[Bear]

Chris,
Mine looked like that after 50 miles. I changed the oil and filter and rode it like I stole it. Changed 100 miles later and the oil was a lot cleaner. After 1000 miles, I changed to synthetic. The oil that came out then looked really clean.

 

[karl]

Oil should hold the carbon (good abrasives) it picks up and hold it in suspension till the filter can pick it up. Dark oil means the "detergents " are working, a good thing. If it will make you sleep better and you like to work with facts send it off to a lab like I do and find out what is happening.

It will cost you a large pizza and beer, but the peace of mind is priceless. Or you could wast precious resources and change early. Up to you.

Above all enjoy yourself...

 

[EX Winger]

Mine looked about the same at 700 and change, I ran that for about 3000 and changed itas itwas gettingsomecolor in it. I changed it then and now atg 6800 it looks prety good, but will get itchanged again at , or about 8,000 probably a tehame time ai change out to PR3"s.

 

[artemedes]

Unless you use the same oil in the same vehicle all the time and compare every time the color of the oil just doesn't mean much. Some oils can be clean and get darker just because of the heat cycles and particular additives in that oil.

I used to be anal about oil and had two cars. I sent in about 5 oil samples to blackstone labs. Some Dino oil would look nasty and come back with no problems, and some synthetic would look like a thick opaque honey after 5000 miles and come back with high wear metals. Those particles are so small you cant see them. Some of the best reports I got back were with oil that was nearly black. Some engines just produce more wear metals and are harder on oil than other engines.

I am thinking of sending in a sample at my next NT oil change. It will be my first Oil Change Interval (OCI) with Rotella t6 5w40. The engine is feeling better than ever, but I attribute that to finally wearing in since I am just now around 6000 miles. Phil and others reported their engines getting smoother and smoother the more it broke in.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Oil should hold the carbon (good abrasives) it picks up and hold it in suspension till the filter can pick it up. Dark oil means the "detergents " are working, a good thing. If it will make you sleep better and you like to work with facts send it off to a lab like I do and find out what is happening.

It will cost you a large pizza and beer, but the peace of mind is priceless. Or you could wast precious resources and change early. Up to you.

Above all enjoy yourself...

I do find oil tests interesting...in Aircraft mechanics school, we were taught that due to the high cost of engines and rebuilding them and the fact that they tend to come down in unfortunate places when the engine stops, oil tests are well worth it. And many mechanics have filter cutters to inspect the inside of the filter after removal. Big engines have "chip screens" and sensors that detect a pressure drop when the screens are full of engine parts.....we call that "making metal" at the air races. I use magnetic oil drain plugs in my Connie and inspect those too. Who here is old enough to remember when there were no filters on bikes and the clutch particles circulated with the oil?

 

[mikesim]

Who here is old enough to remember when there were no filters on bikes and the clutch particles circulated with the oil?[/QUOTE]

<sigh>.... I am....



Mike

 

[Warren]

Depends on how you define filter. Most vintage bikes usually had some sort of mesh screens in the sump. My Yamaha has two of them.

 

[Lorien]

Who here is old enough to remember when there were no filters on bikes and the clutch particles circulated with the oil?

I remember it quite well; thus my habit of thinking I should be changing the oil every 1500 miles. If you wish the experience again try buying some of the less expensive scooters on the market. You can bet they do not have a paper filter.

 

[dnktng]

My 1968 Honda CL125A has a suction strainer and a centrifugul sediment/particulate collection container that can be cleaned. The centrifugul filter is driven off of the crankshaft end and the plunger oil pump is driven from the clutch shaft. Recommended oil changes every 500-600 miles, and use of a synthetic or modern oil or additives mostly wouldn't allow me stretch oil changes out to further miles. I've only put about 3000 miles on it in the last 5 years. The whole motorcycle is odd and reminds me that even smart companies like Honda make mistakes. Oil color always looks new at an oil change.