MC Larry Risers

[RedNigel]

I'm about to install my MC Larry risers. (as soon as they arrive) I know it's a pretty straight-forward procedure.
BUT
Are there any tips or pitfalls that any of you learned about the hard way that I can benefit from?

 

[Chuck 500]

Here are the items I noted.

1. There is a small clamp down the brake lines that holds the lines to the fork (I think). Loosen the clamp and pull some slack in the line.

2. I used one of those allen sets that looks like a jacknife. (I am tool challenged) My dealer tech said I did not get the bolts fully torqued. They were tight enough that the bar did not move in normal service. An allen socket will work better, a torque wrench is best (Don't know the torque value off hand)

3. Search hard for slack in the clutch cable and if you find any, use it. I could not and ended up with a small bind where the cable joins the lever. After about a year, it caused the cable to fray. Dealer caught it and we replaced the cable with a Trans Alp cable. Fits perfectly, is 2" longer and only cost about $12. Look in some of the riser threads for the part number.

Good luck.

Chuck

 

[RedLdr1]

Tighten the handlebar clamp bolts in a criss-cross or X pattern.... EDIT: Tighten to 20 foot pounds of torque per the service manual...

If you need more slack on the brake line try tugging it first... If you do not get enough slack loosen the hose guide / clamp slightly to be able to pull up the required slack...

You should be able to turn your handlebars "lock to lock" with no cable issues when you get done....

Have fun, they are a great addition to the NT....

 

[Rich]

In addition to cable binding you also want to be sure as you turn the bars lock to lock they don't hit anything such that you scratch paint or don't get full travel.

 

[DirtFlier]

It's a common Honda practice to ALWAYS tighten the front bolts first until the clamp is bottomed in front, then do the rear bolts.
This ensures that a downward force on the grips will pull the bars tighter in the clamps. See page 15-9 in the service manual.

 

[dnktng]

It's a common Honda practice to ALWAYS tighten the front bolts first until the clamp is bottomed in front, then do the rear bolts.
This ensures that a downward force on the grips will pull the bars tighter in the clamps. See page 15-9 in the service manual.

Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[RedLdr1]

It's a common Honda practice to ALWAYS tighten the front bolts first until the clamp is bottomed in front, then do the rear bolts.
This ensures that a downward force on the grips will pull the bars tighter in the clamps. See page 15-9 in the service manual.

That is a new one on me. If everything is torqued down properly I wouldn't think it would matter. Most riser kits instructions, like the one I installed on my Wee, say to criss-cross tighten when installing the risers. Learn something new everyday...

 

[RedNigel]

I did not buy the MCL clamp. I am using my OEM clamp. Are the supplied hex bolts going to countersink into the clamp nicely?

 

[RedLdr1]

I am using my OEM clamp. Are the supplied hex bolts going to countersink into the clamp nicely?

Mine did with no issues...

 

[Ed in Miami]

My repair shop tech put some grooves on my MCL Riser so that the handlebar would not move.

 

[Sojourner]

Bumping an old thread.

I just tried installing my Motorcycle Larry handlebar risers that I ordered last season and didn't get to ride much. I, too, believed what they said when they said that there was enough slack in the cables/lines for a 1" riser, but it's not true. Both the brake line and the clutch cable were too tight. I could have adjusted the brake line and made it work, I think. I took off the little clamp that holds the brake line to the triple clamp, and there is an extra rubber sleeve around the line (for abrasion protection, it seems), that if I had worked at it, could have been moved down and then re-clamped with enough slack for the 1" rise. But given that the clutch cable was too taught at the lever/adjuster, too, I decided to put the stock parts back on and came in to do this research on this forum.

It looks like a few folks have got it to work by rotating the bars a bit, but I like the stock orientation, just wanted to relocate it upwards. In another thread, someone posted that the Honda Transalp clutch cable (Honda part# 22870-MAB-620) is 2" longer, and that looks to be the ticket, for ~$15.

 

[Phil Tarman]

I'm like Chris, Sojourner. Mine fit fine. I did have a clutch cable failure somewhere around 45-50,000 miles but it was because the ferule near the clutch failed, but the 2nd stock cable has been there for over 50,000 miles now. I had ordered the TransAlp cable when I ordered the stock cable, but it didn't get there in time and I needed to hit the road. The 2nd cable has a good fair lead away from the clutch lever. Look farther down from the triple clamp and I'm betting you can find some way to loosen the clutch cable so it'll reach.

Good luck!

 

[Bearister]

I'm looking for risers that provide 1" up and 1" back/ sounds like u found/ Brand and place to purchase/ Bear

 

[Phil Tarman]

I've got the Motorcycle Larry bar risers, Bearister. They work well. I also got their handlebar clamp that has an electrical outlet and three places where you can mount a RAM ball. I've got my GPS in the middle one of those and use the electrical outlet as a way to recharge my phone while riding. I also found that, for me, rotating the bars down a bit after installing the MCL risers gave me a better and more comfortable wrist angle.