My Nebraska Loop

Phil Tarman

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North of here and just a tad east lies the Nebraska panhandle. The most famous things in the western panhandle are Oregon Trail landmarks like Chimney Rock and Scotts Bluff. The most beautiful things in western Nebraska are the miles and miles of empty country. When you look a nearby ridgeline or hill top, you expect to see a Sioux hunting party or a mighty herd of buffalo stretching for miles and miles.

I try to make a loop up into Nebraska every year, sometimes twice. Yesterday's was special because I was going to meet forum member Jim Moore. Jim lives in the busy metropolis of Whitney, between Chadron (home of one of the best museums I've visited, The Museum of the Fur Trade) and Crawford, which is three miles east of Fort Robinson, a 19th century US Calvary Fort whee Crazy Horse was killed. Whitney supposedly has 89 souls but Jim says he hasn't met that many people, and he's lived there for several years.

Jim runs the boilers for Chadron State University and they are fired by wood chips. about three truckloads a day. The chips come from the slash piles around the pine-logging operations in the Nebraska State Forest. (Yes, boys and girls, Nebraska really does have a State Forest. It's beautiful!) He's got four bikes, his NT, which he rides to work nearly every day; an FJR1300; a Honda Valkryie tourer, and (probably the most interesting) a red Ural Tourist. The Tourist is a sidecar rig and is really neat. Jim says his grandkids love riding it it.

It was supposed to be in the high 60s in northern Nebraska yesterday, but if it got there it was after Jim and I parted ways at 3PM. I had gotten almost to the state line when it got cloudy, and a little north of Kimball, it started raining lightly. I never got wet, but it was interesting on 71 north of Kimball to watch the southbound traffic throwing up clouds of spray, while the northbound side of the road, maybe 50 yards away was dry.

I bought gas in Scotts Bluff at the Route 26 Diner, which recreates a 50's atmosphere and has a 57 Chevy on the roof. It reminded me of something I saw in Kingman, AZ on Route 66.

North of Scotts Bluff, the country gets a wilder look, with some badlands and incredible vistas. When I turned onto Nebraska 2, a few miles west of Hemmingford, I was soon past Marsland and into the Pine Ridge country south of Crawford.

When I got to Jim's we had a cup of coffee and then rode west past Fort Robinson to Harrison, Nebraska's "Top Town." "Top" is in terms of elevation. 4800' -- which is not the highest place in Nebraskas. That honor goes to the piece of land that adjoins Colorado and Wyoming in the SW corner of the Panhandle. Harrison is also home to the world's largest Aeromotor windmill and windmill parts dealer. My guess is that when you see a windmill pumping water for livestock, that the chances are about even it was made by Aeromotor.

We had a good hamburger at the local saloon, and then Jim went to a meeting and I headed home. South of Harrison is the Agate Fossil Beds National Monument. It's 5-6 miles of the highway and I didn't go there yesterday. I saw a magnificent golden eagle feeding on an extremely ripe pronghorn antelope -- that's kind of rare, because they don't become road kill anywhere near as often as deer do. Saw plenty of live pronghorn, too. They are (I think) the second fastest mammal, only slightly slower than a cheetah. I've clocked them at 50-60 mph. Since I was doing 65-70, it took me a while to get past the one I saw that was running in my direction. They are amazing animals -- even if they are not antelope. They're more closely related to goats and are a North America-only species.

I stopped for gas in Mitchell and a service guy for some internet provider pulled in behind me. As I finished topping off the tank, I realized that he was looking at the bike very closely. He saw my roundel and thought, at first, it was new BMW. But then he realized it was a Honda. He asked lots of questions and was very interested. I was able to tell him that the Honda dealer in Chadron has a red one that he can't sell because it is so slow. :) He said he might have to take a run to Chadron to check it out. Jim, I told him to tell Dave that "Jim Moore's buddy sent him!"

On the way north, I'd been bucking a strong headwind. 25-35 mph, with stronger gusts. Just a typical eastern Colorado-western Nebraska day. "Breezy," as we say. When I filled up in Scotts Bluff, I was getting 42mpg. Of the 180 miles I rode from Scotts Bluff back to Mitchell, I had a headwind for about 90. And when I stared going dead downwind at Harrison, it started to die. By the time I got to Mitchell, it was only 15-20 mph with 25mph gusts. By the time I got to Kimball, it switched to the SE and picked up again. I still ended up getting 47mpg for the 428 mile trip.

It was a great day, even if the weather was 24 hours away from getting GREAT!!!


I uploaded some pictures from the trip into an album called "My Nebraska Loop": http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/album.php?albumid=76
 
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xavier

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Nice landscape in Nebraska!!!. I recon loneliness, good feelings.
 

Peace2U_2

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Phil.....

Mari Sandoz writings come to mind immediately upon viewing your photos !

So, you mentioned the strong strong winds. any advice for ridin' in strong winds? .......this is a serious question. Especially the wild wild cross winds where one feels as if you will get pushed off the road

nice pics
 

karl

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Nice report Phil. My morning got better reading it. Thanks for sharing.
Peace2U_2 Phil has more miles than I but what I try to do is keep looking where you want to go, relax and let the bike have"it's head" as much as I can. There is time to extract your base layer clothing afterward if you get it right and like most things it gets easier with practice.
 
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bish79

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Phil darn it!! You're making me want to move out west where the real riding is!!

I remember going through Nebraska on I-80 on our way back from Oregon a couple of years back. Beautiful area, not many people, but that's part of what makes it beautiful.
 

Igo

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You did a good job with the pictures Phil. Not what I expected of Nebraska at all. I could really enjoy that ride.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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I remember going through Nebraska on I-80 on our way back from Oregon a couple of years back. Beautiful area, not many people, but that's part of what makes it beautiful.
Brandon, I-80 is absolutely the ugliest country in Nebraska (not that it's real ugly). It follows the North Platte and there's not very much terrain relief. Anything off of 80 is interesting and a much better ride. 20 across the top is great, and 34 across the bottom is too -- just a few more little towns so it's slightly slower. Anything going north and south gets intersesting.
 

Peace2U_2

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I have to admit....have done the death grip on handlebars......trying to keep the NT on the road on those strong strong cross winds.....and then when semi's come by in addition to those strong cross winds....WOW. First time this occurred...i actually found myself leaning my body AND the NT towards the direction of the crosswind to keep it on the road. death grip WAS exhausting...and not the way to go ...i'm learning
 

karl

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Peace 2U_2, squeeze with your knees to hang on, You will move a bit but all will be well if you don't over correct. Gusts like the bow wave of air that the trucks give you can be a bit trickier but you will learn to read the grass and trees and it will become fun... with your see through smell through sensory device.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Peace2U_2,

I'd just add to Karl's advice that relaxation is key to comfort in crosswinds. Some arcane geometrical calculations could probably explain why 2-wheeled vehicles can ride at all in strong crosswinds, but well-designed ones do an amazingly good job of taking care of you. I used to ride 2-3 times a week from the south part of Ogden, UT, out to Hill Air Force Base to play racquetball. I was on a bicycle, and at 6:30AM a typical day saw dead calm at the house and all the way to the bottom of the grade down into Weber Canyon. The top of that hill was about 600-700 feet above the bottom and you got down in about a mile and a half. I'd be screaming down the hill at 50 or so with dead calm winds. Then in about 50 feet, I'd be in the canyon winds from Weber Canyon. Colder, denser air at higher elevations would be emptying out of Wyoming into the warmer, less-dense air over the Great Salt Lake. 50-60 mph winds were fairly common. I'd hit those, the bike would lean sideways into the wind, and in a few hundred yards, I'd be back to dead calm air. Occasionally a semi would pass while I was in the high wind area. As long as I stayed (relatively) relaxed, I could keep the bicycle tracking within a foot of the white line on the right edge of the road. It would stand up in the lee of the truck and then lean back over as the truck passed. All of this happened almost instantaneously and without any conscious thought or planning. Same thing on a motorcycle.

The NT bounces around in turbulent air more than heavier bikes do, but I've heard some ST riders say that it seems to be less "sail"-like than the ST.
 

elizilla

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Another crosswind trick is to point your knee away from the bike in the direction of the crosswind. If the wind's coming from the left, stick out your left knee. I don't know if this helps because it changes how the wind flows over the bike, or if it does something helpful to your weight distribution, or if it just manipulates you as the rider into doing the right stuff with the rest of your body, but it can make things feel a lot less scary.

This trick doesn't work for chaotic winds that change direction every few seconds - for those you need the other tricks people here have described. But for the steady high winds you find out on the great plains, it works very well.
 

Bear

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Thanks for sharing those pictures. I did want to go out today but have a wicked cold. The weather is getting better.
 
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