New Denali LED lights

[freezingalaskan]

I downloaded the Twisted Throttle catalog and found Denali D2 LED lights....new model.
They claim they are 70% brighter than the first version lights, and they are round.
Also says they are dimmable, but not clear if they dim to 50% only or can be dimmed gradually. No info on their website yet....at least not any I can find.

Price $349.99..... I might spring for these if I find the stock light not being as good as I need it. (Still have not tried my new NV700 yet.)

freezingalaskan

 

[Chuck 500]

Oh no!!! Now there's a choice here too. It never ends.

 

[freezingalaskan]

I think the catalog stated the power draw to be the same as the original Denali LED lights.... The lights also seem to be a bit smaller, maybe mostly because of their round design.

freezingalaskan

 

[Phil Tarman]

I think the catalog stated the power draw to be the same as the original Denali LED lights.... The lights also seem to be a bit smaller, maybe mostly because of their round design.

freezingalaskan

The way I read the catalog about the D-2's power draw is that they each draw 10W. The original Denalis draw 10W / pair.

About your headlights: I found that mine were pointing way too far down. I cranked them up about as far as they go and with them and the Denalis, I get a good view out 7-8/tenths of a mile. The high beams + the Denalis punch out a bit farther than the low beams and the Denalis.

 

[Builtdesign]

I never was a fan of the square housing, the round look much better, less bulky. Also they feature wider lenses on both euro and fog beam. The wattage still isn't bad at 20W, regardless, the amperage draw is still ridiculously low! I love the fact that these will hook up to the high beams for 100% brightness, and 50% with low beam.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Remember that I installed a Kisan Charge Guard on my NT last week? Coming home in the dark in a cold wind, I learned that we're pushing our alternator capacity pretty close to the limit. Or at least, I am. I had: 55W lowbeam headlight, 95W FirstGear heated jacket, 10W Denali's, ??W heated handlebars turned up to high. The Kisan just sat there showing 14-14.2V.

If I added 55 more watts with hight beam, voltage dropped to 13. If I turned the hand grips down from high to the middle or lower, the voltage went back up to 14-14.2V.

BTW, have any of you who have the Hondaline heated grips noticed that they have a built in low-voltage warning system. When voltage drops below 14, the indicator lights on the grips starts to blink, faster the farther below 14.0 volts you go.

Thanks to Wayne for informing me that the Hondaline Heated Grips have a 3.5A fuse, so probably pull around 50W. Adding it all up then:

55 W lowbeam
55 W highbeam
10 W Denalis
5 W handgrips
95 W jacket
______________
265 W total draw in excess of what it takes to run the bike. Makes it look like the bike needs about 163W to run its essential systems (if you don't count the headlights as an "essential system."

 

[Builtdesign]

Does Honda specify current draw form the heated grips?

 

[Phil Tarman]

Does Honda specify current draw form the heated grips?

If they do, I haven't seen it anywhere.

 

[RedLdr1]

Does Honda specify current draw form the heated grips?

The Honda Heated Grips use a 5 Amp fuse so it is probably around 3.5 Amps maximum... I would assume 50W maximum if you figuring usage that way...

 

[elizilla]

I installed a Flash2Pass garage door opener, that opens the garage door when you flash the brights twice. I used a posi-tap on a wire I found going into one of the plugs on the left side of the bike, just above the tipover wing where all the wires in the bike meet up. Can't recall the color but I was able to pick it out based on the wiring diagram in the shop manual, and confirm it with my multimeter.

 

[elizilla]

The Super Ten is great except I have yet to find any wire for the high beams. Not sure it has one - the high beam is actually managed by a mechanical shield that is raised and lowered. Not sure what to do about that.

 

[RedLdr1]

Not sure it has one - the high beam is actually managed by a mechanical shield that is raised and lowered. Not sure what to do about that.

That is how the OEM HIDs work on my wife's Ford Flex...you can hear them "clunk" when you flash the headlights... Can you get to the wire off the Hi / Low beam switch? And there is either a small motor or a solenoid to raise and lower the shutter in there somewhere you should be able to tap....

 

[Bear]

I have been around motorcycles for a long time and have never found the answer to this question, "Why do motorcycles have such wimpy alternators?" More and more electrical farkles hit the market each day--yet no manufacturer, to my knowledge has done anything.

 

[elizilla]

The NT's alternator is around 450w. It's been adequate to everything I have asked of it, but then I'm not running two full sets of heated gear - just a rider jacket and heated grips.

The ST1300 made a big splash when it arrived with a 700w alternator, IIRC.

My new Super10 is supposedly somewhere north of 600w, I understand. I'm sure it will do me just fine.

 

[Digger23]

Damn, I've still got a set of the DN-1's new in the box that I now want to trade in for the DN-2 lights. I too like the round ones better. I wonder if anyone would be interested in buying them or if I can find a seller who will take them as a trade up.