New to riding, looking at NT700V as my second bike

[kezug]

Hi,

I am new to riding at 51 years old. I took the MSF in April, got a used Honda Rebel 250 which I love but is just too small physically for me. Not terribly small but long rides (an hour or more) and my butt is achy and my legs are cramped a little. I am 5'10 with 32" inseam and 200lbs. I have put in about 1000 miles on the Rebel and another 100 on a Vulcan 500. I find the Vulcan nice to ride in terms of power and weight, but I really am not sure I like other things on the Vulcan. (the placement of the odometer, the peg position, the handlebars)

I am researching heavily and have been considering many bikes ranging from Shadow RS, to ST1300, to Rebel 500 or 1100, and my research has lead me to an NT700V. It seems to hit all the marks, has some luggage, not too much power, not too heavy. It seems ideal for longer hauls. My style of riding appears to be in town, back roads, rolling roads, twisties, country roads, and may be some bigger roads for short stretches at 55/60mph. I am not ready for faster or major highways for long durations but I may venture out and do an all day trip or even a 2 day trip somewhere, but it doesnt have to be far, just a lot of riding.

So, I have questions:
1. being that this is a european model, is it hard to fix/get parts/sell?
2. is the basic maintenance all doable by someone who already can do basic maintenance such as oil changes, brake fluid changes, etc?
3. seems one of the biggest gripes is the luggage closure latches that can be troublesome, but seems a latch should be modifiable and fixable if one does trouble me?
4. seems people complain of lack of power, but for me and my recent venture, this cant be something that I will be troubled by, can it (again, I am not looking to go 80mph on large highways for cross country touring)
5. what should I also know about this bike before I really go further into wanting it?
6. Are there certain years to avoid and why?

 

[Phil Tarman]

kezug, welcome to the NT-Owners Forum! It's a great group of folks with loads of expertise and experience. A lot of moved past the NT into newer bikes, both more and less powerful. I've had two '10 NT700VA (both the silver ABS versions). My first one, Serial # 00079, named Dudley, lasted me for 139,000 miles before I traded it for # 2, Serial #00062, named Horse, which had 22,000 miles when I bought it at the end of July, '21. I've done 2 Saddle Sore 1000 rides and a Bun Burner Gold (1500 miles in 24hrs) and rode in the coldest temperature I've ever been in @ -13F. My 1st SS1K was the first Iron Butt certificate ride ever done in the whole Western Hemisphere! Whoo-hoo! In '13, I took my "Epic Post-Retirement Ride to Alaska, the Four Corners of the US, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and Labrador," a 21K mile, 80-day jaunt. My hottest time on a bike was on I-8 and I-10 during that ride -- 113F.

To answer your questions:
1. It's not because it was basically a European bike, but because it's getting old, but some body parts are getting hard to find. Most mechanical/electrical parts are available, but sometimes you have to wait longer than you'd like to get them.

2. Basic maintenance is fairly easy -- if you're a good mechanic. I did almost all my maintenance on my Connies, but as I've gotten older, I'm not as coordinated and left hand was shattered when a little deer ran into while I was riding. Now I can't manipulate parts or tools so all my maintenance is done by my dealer now. I just hope their only good Honda mechanic doesn't go away!

3. Honda replaced my first bike's latch system at about 50K and it was still working most of the time when I traded the bike. Horse's latch system works fine, but I've got external latches ready to go if I need them.

4. There's enough power for me. On I-8 and I-10 during my Epic Ride, the speed limit was 80mph and a lot of traffic was running between 85-90. I mostly rode at 85 on that stretch, but 90 would have only put my rpm at 6,375 and the bike doesn't strain at that speed. Granted, a steep climb or strong headwind would make it strain and might require a downshift to 4th. Now I'm mostly riding the speed limit and that's no problem at all. A lot of people think the bike needs a 6th gear, but I think the gear ratios match the power curve perfectly. I hardly ever try to shift into 6th; on my Connies I was always trying to shift into 7th.

5. As far as I can think, there's nothing to think about. It's been a great bike for me. It handles well, it's comfortable and has decent braking...the ABS has saved my bacon twice, both times in the rain, and both times after a woman pulled out in front of me. The first one was when I had about 7K miles on the bike, the 2nd was in Newfoundland when I had 76K miles.

6. NT's were only imported in '10 and '11. A few leftover '11s were sold as 2012 models, but they were built in 2010. All the '11s are black with ABS and the '10s came in either silver or red. All the red ones are non-ABS. Most of the silver ones, as far as I can tell have ABS, and maybe 1/3 were non-ABS. AFAIK, there's no difference in reliability or performance. There seem to be more '10s for sale than '11s.

Feel free to ask questions...someone will know the answer!

This is my current bike:

 

[Sheriff41]

kezug, welcome to the NT-Owners Forum! It's a great group of folks with loads of expertise and experience. A lot of moved past the NT into newer bikes, both more and less powerful. I've had two '10 NT700VA (both the silver ABS versions). My first one, Serial # 00079, named Dudley, lasted me for 139,000 miles before I traded it for # 2, Serial #00062, named Horse, which had 22,000 miles when I bought it at the end of July, '21. I've done 2 Saddle Sore 1000 rides and a Bun Burner Gold (1500 miles in 24hrs) and rode in the coldest temperature I've ever been in @ -13F. My 1st SS1K was the first Iron Butt certificate ride ever done in the whole Western Hemisphere! Whoo-hoo! In '13, I took my "Epic Post-Retirement Ride to Alaska, the Four Corners of the US, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and Labrador," a 21K mile, 80-day jaunt. My hottest time on a bike was on I-8 and I-10 during that ride -- 113F.

To answer your questions:
1. It's not because it was basically a European bike, but because it's getting old, but some body parts are getting hard to find. Most mechanical/electrical parts are available, but sometimes you have to wait longer than you'd like to get them.

2. Basic maintenance is fairly easy -- if you're a good mechanic. I did almost all my maintenance on my Connies, but as I've gotten older, I'm not as coordinated and left hand was shattered when a little deer ran into while I was riding. Now I can't manipulate parts or tools so all my maintenance is done by my dealer now. I just hope their only good Honda mechanic doesn't go away!

3. Honda replaced my first bike's latch system at about 50K and it was still working most of the time when I traded the bike. Horse's latch system works fine, but I've got external latches ready to go if I need them.

4. There's enough power for me. On I-8 and I-10 during my Epic Ride, the speed limit was 80mph and a lot of traffic was running between 85-90. I mostly rode at 85 on that stretch, but 90 would have only put my rpm at 6,375 and the bike doesn't strain at that speed. Granted, a steep climb or strong headwind would make it strain and might require a downshift to 4th. Now I'm mostly riding the speed limit and that's no problem at all. A lot of people think the bike needs a 6th gear, but I think the gear ratios match the power curve perfectly. I hardly ever try to shift into 6th; on my Connies I was always trying to shift into 7th.

5. As far as I can think, there's nothing to think about. It's been a great bike for me. It handles well, it's comfortable and has decent braking...the ABS has saved my bacon twice, both times in the rain, and both times after a woman pulled out in front of me. The first one was when I had about 7K miles on the bike, the 2nd was in Newfoundland when I had 76K miles.

6. NT's were only imported in '10 and '11. A few leftover '11s were sold as 2012 models, but they were built in 2010. All the '11s are black with ABS and the '10s came in either silver or red. All the red ones are non-ABS. Most of the silver ones, as far as I can tell have ABS, and maybe 1/3 were non-ABS. AFAIK, there's no difference in reliability or performance. There seem to be more '10s for sale than '11s.

Feel free to ask questions...someone will know the answer!

This is my current bike:

You're a great ambassador for the NT, Phil! Since I am not an NT owner, maybe you can explain the latch issue for the OP. It seems to be the only significant issue with the NT.

 

[Phil Tarman]

The original latch mechanism is overly complicated with lots of small pieces and linkage. If it's not adequately lubricated things get stuck. If you lubricate with most normal lubrications, it's get dirty and things get stuck. (Silicone spray seems to me to be the best lube since the spray cleans the linkages and the latches.) Also DO NOT slam the lids closed. Sometimes I have to get things lined up just right and almost closed and then give the lid a pop to get the latch to click closed.

 

[harryhendo]

Kezug... the NT hit all the checkboxes I had, which were: 1) shaft drive 2) V-twin of 600cc or more 3) sport touring style/stance 4) storage space 5) excellent MPG 6) reliable

I haven't noticed any lack of parts, as they sold a lot of these in Europe, and have yet to experience anything that's unavailable. It is very easy to service. Perhaps the most difficult procedure is replacing the air filter, but that is even very straightforward.

As for power, sure, my riding buddies' BMW GS1250s pull away from me from a stoplight, but on the twisty backroads, the NT handles so well with its weight down low that it leaves the GSes in the dust.

There is a very good video on youtube regarding the latches. They both close at the same exact time, not separately, so as Phil said, you have to push the lid just to the point of latching then make sure the lid closes uniformly and both latches click at the same time.

I just returned from a cross the USA trip on the NT and it was a great experience. Comfortable, fuel efficient, great handling. And people who saw the bike thought it beautiful. Most said "Is that the new Gold Wing?". Yep, but with 4 fewer cylinders!!! ;-)

 

[RedNigel]

With the exception of the pannier latches, I have found my NT to be trouble free and easy to maintain. Mine has never left me stranded (except for that time I ran out of gas in BFE Nebraska! it was my fault) for 70K miles now. It's not fast or quick but its fast enough and quick enough. It is more than capable in twisties and canyons and can gobble up interstate easily at speeds up to 85-90 The bike will go faster, but things start to feel 'tight' after 90 mph.
You can expect fuel mileage from the high 40's and up to low 60's if you ride at 50-55 YMMV

 

[turbojim]

Kezug, if you find yourself wanting to check out one of these fine machines for yourself, I have recently decided to put mine up for sale. It is completely ready for a new rider. Brakes, tires, tune-up with many useful accessories. And I'm hoping to sell it to the right guy more than I am looking for the money. So if you or anyone else is interested in a well cared for red one with 50.000 miles, in the area of southeast Michigan, let me know. Jim

 

[Fieroguy]

Okay... point, counter-point. My experience getting into the NT has been a bit different. Yes, she ticked off all the check boxes, plus some. I was in love with the NT and knew it was the right bike for me... until I rode it for an hour and found myself in pain. The 'sport touring' stance had my back hurting and the stock seat was a pain in the keester! I've done a lot of mods since then, raising the handlebars, first 1" and then went the whole tamale' with the Heli-Bars setup (2"up, 2"back). Then the seat... Russell Day-Long and lowering pegs. While that was a huge improvement, the ergonomics were still not quite right so I added a backrest that was originally designed for a GL1800, but actually works great on the contours of the NT seat pan.... Bingo!!! So now my wallet is $800 lighter, but I finally have a bike I can ride all day with no discomfort. Other than that, I wish it had another gear and 50 more hp . The point being, that the riding position is going to be quite a bit different than a Rebel 250 which is more akin to a cruiser. There is also a significant weight difference and its just a whole different animal. But, I wouldn't let it deter you from getting an NT. If it doesn't work out, you can just move on to the next bike!

 

[mikesim]

The original latch mechanism is overly complicated with lots of small pieces and linkage. If it's not adequately lubricated things get stuck. If you lubricate with most normal lubrications, it's get dirty and things get stuck. (Silicone spray seems to me to be the best lube since the spray cleans the linkages and the latches.) Also DO NOT slam the lids closed. Sometimes I have to get things lined up just right and almost closed and then give the lid a pop to get the latch to click closed.

In furtherance of Phil's admonishment about the latches, the major issue that I find fault with is that the latch mechanism and hasps that engage the latches are mounted into the plastic bosses with self tapping screws. Self tapping screws by nature of their design stress what ever material they are screwed into. Unfortunately, the plastic material that was specified for the mounting bosses deteriorates with age and begins to crumble apart and usually at the worse possible moment. IF you catch the crumbling in time, you can reinforce that plastic that has deteriorated with JB Weld or a similar adhesive. Several clever members had the time and patience to "recast" new mounting bosses on the panniers and that seemed to work OK for them. The installation of a exterior metal latch seems to be the most common fix for the problem though.

Mike

 

[Phil Tarman]

Mike, the problem that you're describing is one I've never had.

 

[NewTo700V]

The key is to reinforce the panniers BEFORE they break.

With the recent news that the big lids are no longer available, I would consider that a knock against the NT unless you can find a bike for sale with them already installed. There's plenty of bikes out there that can accept Givi side cases. I would definitely not recommend a ST1300. That is a heavy bike, packed with tons of electrical adjustable gizmos that the NT doesn't have.

Performance is cruiser like in power, but ground clearance for cornering angle is more sport bike.

The glove box lids, radiator shroud, front vent panels, side panels, rear tail cap, and rear fender will all sunfade to gray. The only black plastic pieces that seem to be unfazed are the main bezel around the instruments and the saddlebag carcass that the lids close to. I painted mine with bumper paint and touch up as needed when it bugs me enough.

At interstate speeds you can expect high 30's to 40 MPG at 90mph when riding into westerly winds.

As for long trips.... I can ride the NT for 40+ hour durations to cross the country in one sitting. I wouldn't say I would recommend trying this, but that should illustrate the decent reliability of the NT. No chain to clean or adjust, just eat up the miles between stops for gas.

 

[DirtFlier]

Phil - I used the same method to lock my standard lids - bring it to fully closed position then thump the plastic with the heel of my hand. I always clean the latching mechanism over the winter with contact cleaner, then lube it with silicone spray.