Oil: Synthetic vs Dino----Motorcycle Specific vs Auto

[Ed in Miami]

I want to do my own oil changes. Should I use synthetic oil, or the dino stuff? Can I use automobile oil or should I use a motorcycle-specific oil? Does anyone think that the Honda oil is better? I found an old article from MCN that concludes that motorcycle specific oil had no real edge over the regular auto stuff as far as viscosity retention is concerned. They gave the edge to viscosity retention to synthetic oils. Do motorcycle-specific oils really have any additives that are beneficial? This subject is very confusing, to say the least!

 

[Mellow]

As long as oil meets the manufacturer's recommendations, it's good enough... you can spend as much or as little as you like for the name on the bottle.

I use Rotella in my ST and will use it in my Yamaha. The ST oil change interval, per the manufacturer is 8,000 miles, I don't know what it is for the NT. I figure the Honda techs know a lot more about what THEIR product can handle than I do and it's in THEIR interest to be conservative. I do use synthetic but only because if I'm on a trip and on the edge of the 8k I know the synthetic is better so I have the option of pushing that limit if I have no choice.

 

[charlie b]

For any engine that has a wet clutch, use what is recommended. Not sure if there is a synthetic oil for wet clutch bikes as this is my first one in a long time.

I like synthetic and usually do not change oil per mfg. I usually double or triple the mfg mileage rating when using synthetics. Have never had any troubles this way either. My mini-van was treated the worst. Oil changes every 25k miles. It had 125k on it when we sold it, still good as ever.

If I use dino oil I change per mfg or sooner. I don't use it unless I have to.

PS on other bike forums oil threads are the best entertainment on the internet Followed closely by helmet law and tire threads.

 

[Frosty]

I found that this article about Oils from the CalSci web site interesting (some other interesting MC info as well). I perhaps got it from another forum. Provided for information only:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

 

[ARKNT]

I would make sure it meets the NT requirements and not just by brand. I have a co-worker who thought mobil 1 was the way to go but he did not get the correct mobil 1 and suffered pretty major engine damage (camshaft, cam chain, etc). I'm not against mobil 1 but get the correct grade for what you are putting it in.
With the NT clutch & tranny sharing engine oil the proper oil is important. Check the grade and usually "energy conserving" on the lable is NOT the right stuff.

ARKNT

 

[Lorien]

Since Honda has been recommending 8k as an oil change interval after first service I have been doing a little experimenting and progressively allowed the oil to go longer and longer. I must admit that I am not comfortable with what I see after about 5 to 6k using Honda Gold label semi synthetic. Just a little to dark for me at 6k. 5k was more acceptable. Since the gas milage is within norms of 50-52mpg I don't think I have an over rich carberation dirtying the oil. Pretty average environmental conditions.
Used to here warnings about using automotive pure synthetics in MC. Something to do with the wet clutch. Have not heard this in a while.

Lorien

 

[Warren]

I want to do my own oil changes. Should I use synthetic oil, or the dino stuff? Can I use automobile oil or should I use a motorcycle-specific oil? Does anyone think that the Honda oil is better? I found an old article from MCN that concludes that motorcycle specific oil had no real edge over the regular auto stuff as far as viscosity retention is concerned. They gave the edge to viscosity retention to synthetic oils. Do motorcycle-specific oils really have any additives that are beneficial? This subject is very confusing, to say the least!

I use 15-40W oil sometimes refered to as Diesel oil or heavy duty oil. It is not energy conserving and has the Allison C4 rating which means it can be used with wet clutches. Common brands are Chevron Delo 400, Mobile Delvac 1300 and Shell Rotella-T. These oils are usually much less expensive than motorcycle specific oils. Most are also available in synthetic versions if that floats your boat.

In the end other than not using energy conserving oils it probably really does not matter what oil you use. Using the recommended weight and changing it at the recommended intervals is probably more impotant than the the type or brand.

 

[Phil Tarman]

From the experiences of others, I have concluded that automotive "Energy Conserving" synthetic oils are likely/possibly detrimental to wet clutches. Not enough zinc or molybendunem (sp), IIRC.

Lots of the diesel truck sythetic oils (Rotella T come to mine) match the standards for motorcycle oil. I've had good luck with them. Mobil One auto oil used to have a 10W-50 non-energy-conserving oil that seemed to work fine year-round with my Connies, but I think that oil is gone now.

 

[Lorien]

Now this brings up something I have not heard in a while. I was told on several occasions to avoid using the Honda oils that had moly in them. This was supposed to be bad for performance clutches. Wonder if anyone else has heard this?

Lorien

 

[Phil Tarman]

Hmm, maybe I'm backwards on that. There are a couple of metallic additives you want in your motorcycle oil. I know zinc is one of them, thought moly was the other one. Maybe moly's bad.

I do know that anything that works in diesel trucks works fine in motorcycles.

 

[Herb]

Back from today's field trip. Rotella T6 (fully syn) 5w-40 IS JASO MA and API SM.

that's what I use as well.
I went to the Rotella synthetic because the Rotella Dino at 15 weight made for sluggish starts in the dead of winter. I run the synthetic 8,000 mi or until the shifting gets sluggish. It was around 7,000 last time. I've used the Wally World Super tech filters for years as well and don't sweat the oil too much because I too suspect from history that I'll get a new bike before 50,000 mi.

 

[elizilla]

Synthetic, dino, moto, auto... yes to any of the above.

I believe in using oil that meets the specs in the owner's manual, and changing it at least as often as Honda recommends. Beyond that I don't sweat it.

 

[Phil Tarman]

To my surprise the Honda 5w-30 oil DOES have a JASO MA cert stamp on it.

Just curious, Bob: why does that surprise you?

 

[johnha]

For any engine that has a wet clutch, use what is recommended. Not sure if there is a synthetic oil for wet clutch bikes as this is my first one in a long time.

Mellow stated he uses Rotella and I'm assuming he meant their full synthetic 5W-40, which I use in my ST and my Nissan PU. Look at the bottle of the oil you intend to buy for the API round seal. If the bottom part of the seal is blank (DOESN'T say Energy Conserving) then you're okay to use it in your wet clutch bike. If its Energy Conserving then it is likely to contain slippery additives you DON'T want near your clutch. In other words, thought the Rotella Synthetic is not MC specific, since its non-Energy Conserving its fine in your wet clutch.

As far as your NT, I would use the oil recommended in the manual while its under warranty, to avoid any misunderstandings should a problem arise.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Hi Phil,

I had read in several blogs that the Honda oil was compliant with JASO MA, but didn't have the cert stamp on it. The bottle of Honda G4 10w-30 that I looked at today DID have the seal.

I had just assumed that if Honda sold it and recommended it it would have had the proper certifications and the proper seals.

 

[Bear]

I use the Honda full synthetic and change oil and filter every 8,000 mi. With the Kawasaki Ninja, I had great service with Rotella T-6. I may go that route after my warranty expires.