Pannier Painting Technique

Phil Tarman

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As you may guess from the thread title, it's happened again. In my driveway, stopped, putting up the sidestand to pull into the garage and it happened. Right side drop # 4. Very slight damage to the pannier lid. So nobody gets a bargain deal again.

I remember that someone talked about what they used to fill the gouges, and preparing the surface for repainting, but I can't find that thread.

Can someone repeat or suggest how to refinish. I definitely think I'll go with the two-tone pannier look. Silver top, black bottom.
 
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Paul, if just light gouges I'd use bondo or fiberglass resin with filler (microballoons).
 

RedLdr1

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Well I haven't had to do it, yet... The bags are plastic, they flex, and they are in a high vibration environment so talk to a very good body shop. I suspect they will suggest a plastic repair kit like those designed for use on car bumpers to repair scrapes. If that is too pricey you could always use "old school" wrinkle finish black like this one to hide the scratches while you go tu-tone!
 

Bear

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Phil,
I was the one who posted the refinishing process.

If the scuffs are not into the black part of the plastic, Auto Zone has a Scratch Remover Kit available for about $16.

You take the lid off, put it on your lap while sitting in a comfortable chair, read the instructions, and go to it. Take your time and the scratches will be history.

If the scratch shows black, that means that you went through the paint. You can sand the scratches with superfine paper (Wet) and use a marine epoxy fairing compound.

Another option is to take the lid to an Auto Body Shop and hear their recommendations. On mine, I did the prepwork and the body shop shot the acrylic and clear coat.

I think that painting the bottom black and leaving the top silver is a great idea. My all black ones get beastly hot in the sun.

Sorry about the drop.

I am wondering if the body shop could put a chrome molding on the lid that would take the hit. I am thinking of two or three strips on the bottom half of the lid.
 

RedLdr1

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I am wondering if the body shop could put a chrome molding on the lid that would take the hit. I am thinking of two or three strips on the bottom half of the lid.
I have been looking at all the pictures of where the lids hit most commonly to do that mod myself. The problem is the damage I have seen goes anywhere from the bottom to past the middle of the side, basically the lower half of the lid! I am also concerned that a narrow molding will crack the plastic from the stress so I think a minimum of 1 inch wide molding, to spread the load, would be needed... What are you thinking about trying?
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Ah....no. It sure isn't. I'm going to introduce a constitutional amendment repealing the law.
 
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I am so glad you dropped it again as now I'm number two in the stopped and dropped category. I roughed up my right pannier the last time and I think I'm just going to leave it scratched as I'm guessing I'll be doing this again and then my repair job will be 'toast' once again. I'm delighted I never ordered the larger lids as I'd be into this for some serious money at this point. Good luck with your repair. Let us know how it went.

Terry
'
 

mikesim

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As you may guess from the thread title, it's happened again. In my driveway, stopped, putting up the sidestand to pull into the garage and it happened. Right side drop # 4. Very slight damage to the pannier lid.

I feel your pain....

Mike
 

bicyclist

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Awright, it's time somebody designed some tipover bars for the back of these things.

Did anyone ever come up with any auto side moulding that could be glued on to take the hit?
 
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MCL was looking at the type of rear bars the ST folks have on the ST. It would mean loosing the rear pegs and still not bolted to a frame member. Start looking and see if a good plan can be formulated for the bars. The more ideas the better.
 

Warren

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Phil,


I think that painting the bottom black and leaving the top silver is a great idea. My all black ones get beastly hot in the sun.
Another plus for the silver NT. Not only is it faster but it is cooler as well.
 
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I second that Dave, I rode with my wife to the grocery store today and floorboards or a larger footpeg for the passenger is officailly on the sanctioned faarkle list. The NT is a great bike , but with two "corn fed" americans on it's back - there is no footroom whatsoever! So MCL, please rev up the R&D guys on a new
Max-Pax Peg!

Leo
 

RedLdr1

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I have considered just modifying a set of generic sliders on a "rod" to replace the rear foot pegs...it would not be hard to do... But I don't think that solution will work for the following reasons:

1. A single point mounting in the rear foot peg could allow the sliders mounting "rod" to bend back against the saddle bag under impact.

2. As Chuck mentioned the rear foot rest is not frame mounted. I am not so sure that that rear peg mounting point would not either bend, or even shear off, under the weight of an impact. If that happens you just screwed up your exhaust mounting point and possibly shoved something in to your rear tire and wheel. Then we are talking real serious money to repair the bike...

3. Frame sliders usually mount back up against the frame to provide a solid 360? mounting point. I am not sure how well a "free standing" slider puck will handle the impact, would it break / shear off at the point it mounts to the rod from the tourque?

Suggestions?
 

Horizon

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Well, I had only read about it happening to Goldwings and finally it happened to me... I parked the bike in someones driveway on a hot afternoon, thankfully I was only away from it for 10 minutes. When I returned the bike was leaning a few degrees further than when I left it. The picture says it all.

Phil, I have a friend who owns a mobile spray paint company (ScratchBusters.com.au), Im sure you would have something similar over there. They could easily do the same quality work as a panel shop but they usually charge less than half and can fix it on the spot.
 

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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Horizon, last year I parked my bike in the hospital parking lot while I went in for a blood draw. Unfortunately, I forgot to turn off the ignition and when the blood draw took 45 minutes, I came out to find a dead battery. It was only 8am and the temperature was about 50F.

I got my car and headed off to a couple of meetings and a hospital visit in another town. I didn't get back to pick up my bike till 8pm. When I did, my windshield was broken and I could tell from the holes in hospital's chocolate asphalt that the bike had fallen over three times before someone picked it up and put a board under the sidestand before it fell over for the fourth time.
 
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Phil, this may b e old technology ,but when I was messing withpaint etc in the late 60's & early 70's glazing putty was the item to have, I can't remember who the MFR was, maybe 3-M or Dupont, it came in a tube like a traveling toothpaste tub , or the larger ecomony size, fill in scratch/ gouge let dry and san with 280 and then finish sanding with 400 then 600 adn shoot it.

Oh yeah check your hoome email and phone if you haven't!

Eldon
 
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