Push start an NT?

mikesim

mikesim

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NT700, Red, #989,
In answer to the question that's been on everyone's mind lately is that yes, an NT can be push started, but it won't be easy. I began by riding down hill at ~30 mph and hit the kill switch to turn the engine off. I waited three seconds for everything to spool down and then turned the switch on and waited for three seconds for the ECU to initialize and engaged the clutch slowly and the engine turned over and fired up. I was in third gear and the force of compression braking was substantial. Question answered! However it is highly unlikely that you will ever be able to push an NT to 30mph to duplicate my success. So I tried a more real world experiment. I found a gradual downhill slope and found that I could coast up to 10mph fairly quickly, so I used that as my benchmark. Proceeding at 10 mph in first or second gear was unsuccessful due to compression braking, the rear tire just skidded. I could make a successful start in 3rd gear however one has to disengage the clutch immediately or the engine will try to lug and die. This BTW was done on dry asphalt. I doubt that it would work on wet pavement or gravel.

Mike
 
mikesim said:
In answer to the question that's been on everyone's mind lately is that yes, an NT can be push started, but it won't be easy. I began by riding down hill at ~30 mph and hit the kill switch to turn the engine off. I waited three seconds for everything to spool down and then turned the switch on and waited for three seconds for the ECU to initialize and engaged the clutch slowly and the engine turned over and fired up. I was in third gear and the force of compression braking was substantial. Question answered! However it is highly unlikely that you will ever be able to push an NT to 30mph to duplicate my success. So I tried a more real world experiment. I found a gradual downhill slope and found that I could coast up to 10mph fairly quickly, so I used that as my benchmark. Proceeding at 10 mph in first or second gear was unsuccessful due to compression braking, the rear tire just skidded. I could make a successful start in 3rd gear however one has to disengage the clutch immediately or the engine will try to lug and die. This BTW was done on dry asphalt. I doubt that it would work on wet pavement or gravel.

Mike
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I had the miss-fortune of testing this on top (fortunately) of a hill earlier this year. Stopped at a view point, killed engine, started gossiping and left the lights on for like 30 min :) you all can guess the rest ....
 
Sunny said:
I had the miss-fortune of testing this on top (fortunately) of a hill earlier this year. Stopped at a view point, killed engine, started gossiping and left the lights on for like 30 min :) you all can guess the rest ....
Click to expand...
I hate unplanned battery tests!
:censored:
Mike
 
If your battery has completely failed you may not be able to do this as some power is needed to run the fuel pump and injectors.

I was riding with a friend one day when his battery failed and we could not get his CB600 to start no matter what we tried. Installed a new battery and started right up.

Seagrass
 
seagrass said:
If your battery has completely failed you may not be able to do this as some power is needed to run the fuel pump and injectors.
Seagrass
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Now that is one test I don't want to run :rofl1:
 
Sunny said:
Now that is one test I don't want to run :rofl1:
Click to expand...
With all seriousness aside. Getting it running is the trouble in this situation. ;)

The truth is all the electronics, pumps, and lighting, computer networks, and etc that modern motorcycles have these days. They are hungry for for power. A weak battery will only leave you strained without any prior notices.

62C2457B-1136-41F4-B608-F121459A3DDD.gif
 
Brillot2000 said:
With all seriousness aside. Getting it running is the trouble in this situation. ;)

The truth is all the electronics, pumps, and lighting, computer networks, and etc that modern motorcycles have these days. They are hungry for for power. A weak battery will only leave you strained without any prior notices.
Click to expand...

That's why I am thinking (plz note thinking) of putting switch in-line with the Low Beam bulb (switch off the bulb in such scenario)... looking at my floor light with in-line switch and then the pic of the Harness you used for the LED conversion gave me that idea .. some soldering / crimping etc and no change to the OEM wiring. Plug and play ...


Second idea is to try an add a high beam flash switch with similar harness and a relay .... God knows why Honda did not add it in this bike .... I ahve 1 in my GS and it gets cars out of my way with a few flashes (no horn needed)

Winter projects ...
 
seagrass said:
If your battery has completely failed you may not be able to do this as some power is needed to run the fuel pump and injectors.

I was riding with a friend one day when his battery failed and we could not get his CB600 to start no matter what we tried. Installed a new battery and started right up.

Seagrass
Click to expand...

The main problem is that ECM units will absolutely refuse to operate when the voltage drops below a certain point. Less voltage means more amp draw and the computer is afraid of being burnt out, so they just refuse to operate. IF I remember right, it happens around 10.5 volts to 10 volts. Some will go as far as 9 volts. Depends on who wrote the software.
 
Sunny said:
God knows why Honda did not add it in this bike ....
Click to expand...
The bikes built for Europe and several countries have both a "Light Power Switch and Pass Button". US Federal requirements since 1975 model year have required the headlight to be on during operation for safety reasons. Very few bikes got a "Pass" button to flash the high beam.
 
So after reading this I had to try it with my Kawasaki 650 Versys.
With perfect conditions, good battery, it is possible but not real easy. I coasted down my driveway for the test. I got it to start in 4th gear (6 speed) once and 1st gear once but mostly had traction problems to turn the engine over.

Kawasaki uses a "Positive Neutral Finder" and that makes it that much more difficult. Basically if the bike is not moving you cannot shift past 1st gear. It does make finding neutral easy but selecting a proper gear for a push start must be planned ahead of time.

I would say it best to keep a good battery in the bike, not leave your lights on, and maybe carry a jump pack instead of trying push starting.

Brad
 
ARKNT said:
I would say it best to keep a good battery in the bike, not leave your lights on, and maybe carry a jump pack instead of trying push starting.

Brad
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:rofl1: :thumb:

I would also add a spare key ... once the bike is jump started, i don't want to switch it off to put the jump starter back in the panniers...
 
Sunny said:
:rofl1: :thumb:

I would also add a spare key ... once the bike is jump started, i don't want to switch it off to put the jump starter back in the panniers...
Click to expand...

Or you could do what I've done. Buy two extra keys, put one in the fairing pocket and the other in the luggage lock. Get two oil caps off of empty cans. Cut the keys just long enough that after you epoxy them into the caps, there's enough to leave the caps nearly flush with the locks. The one in the fairing pocket will open the gas cap. The one in the luggage lock might, I don't remember ever trying that one.
 
Phil Tarman said:
Or you could do what I've done. Buy two extra keys, put one in the fairing pocket and the other in the luggage lock. Get two oil caps off of empty cans. Cut the keys just long enough that after you epoxy them into the caps, there's enough to leave the caps nearly flush with the locks. The one in the fairing pocket will open the gas cap. The one in the luggage lock might, I don't remember ever trying that one.
Click to expand...

That is a nice hack / tip ... where did you get the key blanks from?


Also, doesn't Honda key come with a security chip?
 
The NT's for the US market did not have chipped keys. The bikes sold over the pond do have the HISS system which used a chipped key.

Mike
 
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