Remove/repair pannier latch mounting

[Jabiru]

Hello ... the second day I had my NT, being ignorant of the correct closing procedure, I managed to break the screw-mount for the right-side pannier forward latch. I was able to get a really nifty combined luggage strap/bungie that does a good job of holding the lid closed, but I'm about to do a more permanent fix. I do have a shop manual and have looked at the procedure for removing the pannier body but, of course, the manual assumes a lot more knowledge and familiarity than I have. I was wondering if anybody has ever removed this bit of bodywork and, if so, can offer any advice, hints or pointers?

Thanks

 

[skiper]

How do you know it's broken ? see it / hear it ?

 

[slider]

http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/showthread.php?4812-Broken-saddlebag-lid-latch

 

[DirtFlier]

Is the screw mount on the lid or on the saddlebag body? Screw mounts on the lid are easy to fix while the those on the saddlebag much more involved. The most difficult part of that task is disconnecting all the cables so the part will come free.

Over the course of two years, I've had both sides off to repair the plastic posts onto which the latching mechanism is secured by screws. Those screws if overtightened will crack the plastic post so the threads won't hold. I've replaced the screws with 5 mm studs that are epoxy'd in place after using a 5 mm tap to thread the hole. The latching mechanism is now held in place with locknuts so I no longer having a concern about cracking the plastic. But I still close the lids GENTLY.

 

[Jabiru]

Hello DirtFlier ... yes, it's the screw mounting the latch to the saddlebag body ... your suggestion about installing a stud is interesting ... will wait until I have the bit out before deciding exactly what to do ... by feeling around it seems the whole mechanism is loose, so it may be both latch mounts that are broken. Will be dismantling sometime over the next week or two and it is primarily the cables that concern me, especially getting them reinstalled properly ... any tricks or do they disconnect/reconnect fairly easily?

Thanks for your help.

 

[DirtFlier]

Each latch mechanisms are held in place by four screws, so a total of 8 screws if you're doing both sides. Also remember that when removing the saddlebag on the right side, there is one phillips screw that is almost hidden in the pass-through tunnel.

The cables are non adjustable and the trick is to reinstall them in the correct routing. In the front of the service manual is a section with line drawings of many sections of the bike. I call it "where the hoses & wires go," but it has a formal name. Anyhow you can find the cable routing in one or more of those drawings but it wouldn't hurt to take digital photos of these areas on your bike. The left side is the most complex because it also has the lock plus a separate cable for seat release mechanism.

The cable housing (outer sheath) has plastic ends with a groove that fits into various brackets. I now use an offset screwdriver to help pop these free from beneath. Don't do this with pliers by wiggling back & forth from the top as you'll break the plastic end...spoken from experience!

In ref to using the 5 mm tap, I found the plastic soft enough to tap without predrilling with an electric drill. The trick here is to make a long extension for the tap because those plastic posts are way down there, making use of a normal tap handle impossible. You also can do it with a small socket & long 1/4" drive extension + t-handle. I've done it both ways and found my homemade extension worked better because it had nil wobble so I could tap straighter.

I have yet to master putting photos on this website but if you'll send me a PM with your normal E-mail address, I'd be happy to send photos of the process.

 

[Jabiru]

Hey all ... just an update on my latch problem ... on removing the saddlebag body I discovered all 4 screw mounts were toast completely ... also the latch lever was broken away from the saddlebag body and there was other damage as well ... took it in to the Darwin guy who was going to do the repair ... he figured about $200 to do it all properly ... thought about it for a bit, the decided no matter how good the job was, it would not be "good as new" and I would always be wary of some or all of the damage recurring. So bit the bullet, went to the local dealer and ordered a complete new saddlebag body (Honda had one in stock in Australia - and it was the right color!) at a cost of about $260. It would probably be cheaper in the US, so certainly something to consider for anyone having similar problems.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions and advice ...

 

[Jabiru]

An update on the continuing saga ... turns out the guy at the dealer in Darwin had his head firmly lodged up his butt! Even though I took the saddlebag body in with me and he copied the part number directly from it, he still managed to order the lid, not the body. Not a happy camper, I can tell you. Anyway, is sorted out now ... cost was an extra $160 ... I mentioned I didn't think I should be forced to make yet another trip into Darwin (150 miles/250km each way) so the boss agreed the would courier it out to me at no charge when it arrives next week ... somewhat mollified, but still annoyed and off the road ... bor further adventures with incompetence, see my thread under brakes.