The elusive accessory plug

[johnha]

I've heard rumours that it is the area of the front left pocket. I see some type of connector taped to the subharness up there with 4 wires:

pink green stripe
red olive stripe
black with yellow stripe
green

Am I looking at the right thing before I take it apart?

TIA

 

[RedLdr1]

That should be it.... To confirm Pull Fuse #5, the Accessory Fuse, in Fuse Block A and the power on the Black / Yellow will drop...

 

[johnha]

Many thanks Paul and Wayne. I found it on the wiring diagram marked 'Option' after I posted. Thanks for verifying.

 

[charlie b]

I also got the Honda harness so I didn't have to hack into the bike's harness.

Brings up another nit pick. Why couldn't Honda have made the tupperware easier to get on and off?

 

[Phil Tarman]

Brings up another nit pick. Why couldn't Honda have made the tupperware easier to get on and off?

Now, there's a good nit to pick, Charlie. Working on the NT makes me really appreciate Kawasaki's 36-or-so Phillips-head screws (of three or four different lengths) that they used on the Concours. Those screws were made out of chocolate and pretty much all had the screw slots stripped out by the 3rd or 4th time you took the cowlings off, but that minor defect spawned a whole closet industry called MurphsKits. Murph started by packaging stainless steel Allen-head screw sets to replace the stock chocolate screws and provided us with lots and lots of farkles over the years.

I'm beginning to feel more confident about pulling the plastic without destroying it, but I wouldn't mind if the NT had had screws... or better-yet Dzus fasteners like the new Aprilia.

 

[johnha]

Now how'd we get off on this tangent? After only one disassembly, I can honestly say I already prefer the NT to the ST. But I don't understand why they can't use a standard fastener. Ask me how I feel after reassembly.

Charlie, I want to use that point so I can minimize my hacking. Really I want to run a Relay off the switched side for my remote accessory fuse panel. I did get a MCL riser with the powerlet style outlet and I'm going to use that to power my GPS with the always hot piece of the accessory plug.

I don't trust my aging brain, so the aux lights, heated garments, etc are all going to go off with the key.

 

[elizilla]

Now how'd we get off on this tangent? After only one disassembly, I can honestly say I already prefer the NT to the ST. But I don't understand why they can't use a standard fastener.

I know! Look at these three screws. How hard would it be to choose one and use it everywhere?

 

[Tom Reed]

FYI, I just purchased the Honda sub-harness, Part 08A30-MEW-100, and it has three wires. One is solid green, one is black and yellow stripe, and one is red with a green(?) strip. My color perception sucks, so the stripe on the red wire may not be green, but there is a stripe on the red wire.

 

[Tom Reed]

I connected the sub-harness (Part 08A30-MEW-100) to the Honda Accessory (ACC) Plug today and learned alot. First, the Honda Service Manual instructions for removal of the left cowl pocket (Page 3-12) only mention removal of three "socket bolts" and one "bolt washer." The instructions fail to mention that the cowl is also attached by a very strong velcro-like material and several tabs. If one were to pull up on the cowl to hard, it is quite likely you could break a couple of the tabs.

Secondly, the Honda ACC Plug is taped to a wire bundle up under a metal brace forward of the cowl compartment. It was almost out of sight. Needed to grasp and pull out enough to cut the electrical tape and then redirect the ACC plug to above the metal brace. The ACC plug is a four wire plug. The mating sub-harness plug is a three wire plug.

The Bl/Y wire on the sub-harness is the switched power line. The G wire is ground. The R/G(?) wire is ??????????? My intention is to connect "Hot Grips" to this ACC outlet.

I have photos of all of this. E-mail me at neonnuts at hotmail.com if interested.

 

[Chucksklrst]

I know! Look at these three screws. How hard would it be to choose one and use it everywhere?

Has to do with the details, Different size shoulders for the different thinkness on what ever they are fastening. A agree, But after almost 9 years of ST1300 ownership I have them all memorized for that bike. The NT does not have as many as my ST1300 thank goodness

 

[Herb]

Yeah, I went through the pain of finding this sucker about 8 months ago when I drained my battery forgetting to turn off my Oxford Hot Hands that went directly to the batter. The British site helped with the info that it was taped to the main harness wire. That's a key bit of info that you've helpfully provided for our site. BTW, I was able to loosen the tupper ware enough to do everthing without taking it off. Now that I've taken it off for a subsequent repair(replacing a leaking radiator) I'd probably take it off next time. It was really hard getting the protective cap off in such a tight space. I had fun splicing my Hot Hands into a sumito connector that connected to the Sub Harness. Now I have switched Hot Hands. Might just go with permanent heated grips this winter.

 

[elizilla]

Has to do with the details, Different size shoulders for the different thinkness on what ever they are fastening. A agree, But after almost 9 years of ST1300 ownership I have them all memorized for that bike. The NT does not have as many as my ST1300 thank goodness

The middle screw has a different sized shoulder, but the other two are the same, just different colors and different tools needed to turn them. And even for the different size shoulders, it seems like they could pick one, and then just make the plastic the right thickness to match it. After all, they control that; it's not like they are stuck buying it off the shelf somewhere.

Grrrr.

My first bike was a 1981 Yamaha XJ550. It was full of really unfortunate fastener choices. Non-captive nuts that you couldn't get a tool onto, bolt heads made of cheese, etc. When I changed it for a 1984 Honda V65 Sabre, it was nice to find that every nut that was in a hard to reach spot, was actually welded in place so you didn't have to reach it with a wrench. The bike was only three years newer but it was obvious that whoever designed it had actually thought about how one might service it, and did a MUCH better job. I became a Honda fan on the spot. Now I have another Yamaha/Honda pairing, close to each other in age but almost 30 years newer than that last pairing. And when you compare them, it's like Honda has rested on their laurels, while Yamaha has actually worked for improvement, and has done really really well.

 

[bicyclist]

I'm with you, Katherine. The Honda is a nightmare to work on. Multiple kinds of fasteners, hooks, tabs, studs, Velcro and lots of plastic that's going to break one day. By contrast, the entire fairing on my F800 comes off with the removal of 24 identical stainless Torx screws and 4 allen screws. You can have the bike naked in just a few minutes. I think that Hondas are designed simply to be easily assembled in a factory with no consideration of maintenance.

 

[elizilla]

I wouldn't go so far as to call it a nightmare. But I think they could have done better if they had wanted to.

 

[Rotorhead]

I'm not saying I'm a sloppy wrench, but sometimes when I have lots of panels off, and tired, and cold, and have poor lighting, I reassemble the bike and end up with an extra screw without a home. I just put it in the parts cup and let it multiply. I now have 8 - 10 parts in the cup. Once in a while, I've been known to use a black zip tie to replace a screw. In nearly 100K miles, I've never had anything fly apart, and I'm too old to worry about it <G>

 

[elizilla]

Believe it or not, I have never had any extra screws left over after working on my NT.

 

[Herb]

Believe it or not, I have never had any extra screws left over after working on my NT.

I believe! I!m glad to hear rotor heads confession. I have one that I keep on a work table next to the bike, hoping that future work will find it's home. Also a good witness to my fallibility!

 

[johnha]

Believe it or not, I have never had any extra screws left over after working on my NT.

Compared to my ST1100 there just aren't that many fasteners.