Where can I put an extra powerblock? Clean up my accesory wiring.

savantelite

savantelite

0
Joined
Feb 26, 2012
Messages
111
Location
Wolf Point MT
Bike
2010 NT700V
I am planning on running a heated vest, heated grips, some usb power outlets, GPS, and a small power moniter. But before I can do that the Essential guide to Motorcycle Travel says for multiple electric accesories to use a extra power block. It also recommends a SPST Relay (4 pin motorcycle relay) and an inline fuse to the relay.

Powerblock
http://www.whitehorsegear.com/motorcycle-circuit-manager
1.5 inches thick, less than 5 inches long, and 3.25 inches wide

So where can I put it?

Other links to noted products
Relay
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062477#

Usb power
http://www.whitehorsegear.com/mini-usb-battery-harness

Inline fuse
http://www.amazon.com/line-ACT-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_c
 
The heated grips and vest will be the big consumers of electrical output but honestly shouldn't cause a problem. Not all "vests" are equal because some are now full jackets with heating elements in the collars & sleeves. I haven't seen the specs for the new technology stuff with the electrified fabric or mini wires to know if they have less or more amp draw. The manufacturers have those specs available. Since they typically give specs in "amps," you can use Ohm's Law to calculate what sort of voltage drop you'll see.

Anything you plug into a USB port will have only a microscopic electrical draw; for example, the typical GPS has its own inline fuse of well under 1 amp. I have a digital voltmeter on my bike and it doesn't show any difference with my Garmin turned ON.
 
As Rick mentioned, you're draw requirements should be considered. I installed the PC-8 Eastern Beaver fuse panel.
20120126_Inthebox_0008.jpg


The 42" 50amp relay harness is the perfect length to install the panel under the seat and it is just about "plug 'n play".

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You can see more on how I installed this fuse panel at my photobucket site. I believe there is also a "How to" thread on this site about my install here.

You may also want to rethink your heated vest. I use to have one and they don't even compare to the additional warmth/comfort provided by a full heated liner. Warmth on the arms is totally worth it! :cool:
 
I'd sure agree with Rob about going for the heated jacket liner rather than a heated vest. Having warm arms makes a tremendous differenence in my ability to ride in cold temps (down below 10F without turning my jacket all the way up). My Warm & Safe jacket liner is 90W (7.5A @ 12.8V, and since my voltage is usually about 14.0-14.1 when I'm running the jacket, it would be under 6.5A.) You could run it through a FuzeBlock and have it on a switched circuit, but I've got mine wired directly to the battery.

I run the 90W Warm & Safe Jacket, my Honda heated grips, Denali D-1 Driving Lights, a Garmin 2730 GPS, and a Kisan Chargeguard Voltage-meter/Thermometer. The only time my load exceeds the alternator's output is at an idle or when everything heated is turned up all the way and I add high beams. That last 55W puts it over the top. If I turn the jacket down just a little so it's pulsing and not just steadyily on, or if I dial the grips back a notch, the bike will carry all the load.

When I wear my RoadGear jacket and pants with the liners in, I have not been able to leave the jacket liner turned up all the way for very long, even in temps down to 10F. Just too hot! With the 'Stitch, I need the jacket turned up all the way when the temp gets below about 30F. And I get coolish when it's below 20F.
 
I ran a seperate USB power supply from a fuzeblock to my handlebar riser. I can then use a common USB Micro or Mini cable as needed to charge my phone or gps. I have a retractable USB cable with built-in Micro & Mini connectors.....so only one cable needed. This also frees up my powerlet outlet for future use for higher power applications....heated insoles may be in my future. Simple, cheap, removable, and discrete.
 
Dan, that is awesome, exactly the farkle I have been looking for. Pity they didn't jumper the pins to make it charge my cell phone, but I can still use it for my MP3 players and my eReaders, so I just snagged one. Thanks for the link!
 
elizilla said:
Dan, that is awesome, exactly the farkle I have been looking for. Pity they didn't jumper the pins to make it charge my cell phone, but I can still use it for my MP3 players and my eReaders, so I just snagged one. Thanks for the link!
Click to expand...

Katherine,
Not sure why you can't charge your cell with it, as long as it needs 5vdc to charge. I use something similar to this with the USB power supply, but it only has a Micro and Mini head. The retractable parts keep the mess to a minimum.
 
The Burns Moto catalog page says it won't charge Motorola RAZR devices. That's my phone. I have some experience of this already. Basically what is happening, is that USB isn't just for power; it has a bunch of pins that are used for data transfer. There's a pin that tells the device whether it is plugged in to a "smart" source like a PC, or into something that is power only, so it will know whether to look for data. Some devices, such as Motorola RAZR phones, are extremely particular about this pin, and some "dumb" USB adapters are sloppy about it. When the devices detect the wrong thing on this pin, they refuse to charge. I've heard that Garmins are also picky about this.

I have multiple cig lighter to USB adapters, and not all will charge my phone. The newer ones mostly do, but the older ones rarely do. I'm assuming the device Burns Moto is selling is the old style. If I were better with a soldering iron and willing to open it up, I could probably fix it - but if I were that good with a soldering iron, I would just build my own and not be waiting around for someone else to make one.
 
that looks like the same one from cyclenutz someone posted awhile back, which is where i got mine.

i wired it up into the left fairing pocket. charges either the phone or gps, so i keep two usb cords in my tank bag...a mini usb for the gps, and a micro usb for the phone - and then run whichever one out from the pocket to the device. has worked well so far. it's well constructed and does not feel flimsy in any way.
 
I am still working on this fuse block issue. Since I am trying to conserve space under my seat, most universal power blocks take up too much room. See http://www.nt-owners.org/forums/sho...our-seat-what-do-you-put-in-that-hidden-space.

But today I noticed there is an extra spot for a Honda Fuse block! The current fuse blcok is held in by a clip system. But the space directly next to it above the battery looks like a space for another honda power block! Wooo Hooooo

Does anyone know what the Honda part number is for a OEM NT700V fuse block, Relay block and Honda Relay?
 
I've run into the same issue with ONE of my two RAZR phones. Certain PS's that one would expect to charge it will work with one and not the other.
 
Now I just need to find a wire to tap into, like my license plate light, to turn on the power block when the key is turned on. But I haven't found it yet. Hoping it will be close to the battery.
 
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