hondaaddict
Guest
I did the valve check (no adjustment needed). I put everything back together. Turn the key ON, and everything sounds and looks normal. Turn the key to crank, and starter motor turns. But won't fire up. Any idea?
elizilla
Guest
Perhaps one of the hoses that go in or out of the throttle bodies came unplugged. There are a dozen of them and some of them are really easy to knock loose while reassembling the bike.
docta
Guest
Here at the Retirement Home, we sometimes inadvertently end up with the kill switch in the off position......especially after a grandson visit. Despite what MSF teaches, I always turn off the engine with the ignition key and not the kill switch, so I never expect it to be in the off position.......if that's not it, try checking the sidestand safety switch..........if you reattached everything correctly that you unattached, these are two of the leading usual suspects.......
Always ride safely and keep your airspeed under control.
TW
Always ride safely and keep your airspeed under control.
TW
Mellow
Admin
It shouldn't crank w/ kill switch on so I don't think that's it... but yeah, usually the 1st thing I look at when someone says their bike won't start...
johnha
Guest
The NT won't crank if the Kill Switch is in the 'Kill' (I never can figure out what's on or off with that thing???) position.
johnha
Guest
Addict, if after you try to start it, and with the key still in the 'start' position, is the 'check engine' light flashing you a code?
I would first check for the computer codes if any for a starting point.
Does the fuel pump run when the key is first turned on? You should be able to hear it run a few seconds then shut off after the fuel pressure is up.
After that lift the tank and look for electrical and hoses that did not get reconnected.
Good Luck,
Brad
Does the fuel pump run when the key is first turned on? You should be able to hear it run a few seconds then shut off after the fuel pressure is up.
After that lift the tank and look for electrical and hoses that did not get reconnected.
Good Luck,
Brad
johnha
Guest
The NT is different than any bike I've owned and wrenched on because most of the failure modes (which are typically caused by something not being connected at all or properly) result in a no-start condition. Take a deep breath and look for a code flashing.
And DAMHIK but if you get something like a fuel injector code and go in and fix that connection, make sure it starts BEFORE you put all the @#$%#$% plastic back on and then realize you get another code from something else. <Sheepish grin>
And DAMHIK but if you get something like a fuel injector code and go in and fix that connection, make sure it starts BEFORE you put all the @#$%#$% plastic back on and then realize you get another code from something else. <Sheepish grin>
OP
OP
hondaaddict
Guest
During the first time I pulled the fuel hose, copious amount of gas came out of the fuel tank because I couldn't plug it fast enough. After the no-start condition, I pulled the fuel but this time very little fuel came out of the gas tank. It's like there's a blockage. I do hear the pump buzz. Is it possible the pump is too dry? I left it standing on its front end for a few days.
THere's no check-engine-light.
THere's no check-engine-light.
The fuel line to the tank is a quick disconnect connection. Very little fuel should drip out when disconnected. Only a few drops.
It sounds like no fuel may be your problem. I'm confused about your statement of a lot of fuel coming out until you plugged it. Once the pressure in the line is relieved there should be only a small amount of fuel leakage (volume in the fuel line). Did you disconnect somewhere other than the quick disconnect at the bottom of the fuel tank?
I would check fuel closer. Is there fuel in the tank? If so I might check that the pump is pumping. Section 6 of manual has fuel flow test. Remove quick connect fitting again, attach a fuel line to it to a container. When you energize the pump it should flow at least 200 cc (6.8 oz) in 10 seconds. Careful with the open gas. This is high pressure for the injectors (50 psi).
Brad
OP
OP
hondaaddict
Guest
Success!!!
The cam sensor was not connected. The connector was hanging on the bottom, so I didn't see it. By the way, this connector along with some other wires are touching a coolant hose. Is that how it is suppose to be?
Anyway, I'm glad I had to remove the fuel tank again because I found that I didn't secure the fuel hose properly. The green tabs has to be lined up with the hole on the fuel hose. It probably would have worked itself loose at the worst time.
I probably should have the manual when doing this. LoL
By the way, the Helibar riser is awesome. The NT feels like a Goldwing now.
The cam sensor was not connected. The connector was hanging on the bottom, so I didn't see it. By the way, this connector along with some other wires are touching a coolant hose. Is that how it is suppose to be?
Anyway, I'm glad I had to remove the fuel tank again because I found that I didn't secure the fuel hose properly. The green tabs has to be lined up with the hole on the fuel hose. It probably would have worked itself loose at the worst time.
I probably should have the manual when doing this. LoL
By the way, the Helibar riser is awesome. The NT feels like a Goldwing now.
Last edited by a moderator:
Bear
2
I won't touch anything without a manual and a Torque Wrench. There is so much aluminum stuff on this bike that stripping something is relatively easy. Another good thing to have is a set of Open End/Box Wrenches with very short handles.
Glad you found the problem and good thing fuel hose is connected properly. You are not the first to have to get back in there after maintenance.
You are bolder than I. I would not try valve check without the manual in hand.
Brad
You are bolder than I. I would not try valve check without the manual in hand.
Brad
I had a no start the other day. Scared me. I had got gas not 30 min before, so, I opened the gas cap, then closed it again. Started right up.