Wrench setup for Axle Nut Removal/torque with Muffler in place

[NewTo700V]

I just did my first rear tire change (exhaust left in place), and thought I'd share the setup I came up with to tackle the axle nut. I'm not a huge fan of open end crows foot spanner for significant torque, I prefer a box end wrench or socket.

Items in photo:
Cruztools AW142227 14mm x 22mm x 27mm Combo Axle Wrench
1/2" Drive 14mm Hex Bit socket
Low Profile 3/8 -> 1/2 drive adapter
3/8 Drive click torque wrench (reversible)



To break the axle nut free you can put your favorite 1/2" Drive ratchet or breaker bar fitted with the 14mm hex bit socket and fit through the 14mm opening on the axle wrench. I did buy a second of the same axle wrench to put the 22mm end on the axle bolt head.

Torque is a little more complicated but not too bad. You'll need to measure the tools and apply a torque wrench extension formula to get the proper setting for the torque wrench. (axle nut value is 66 ftlb by service manual) By using a reversible torque wrench you can flip the torque wrench around to both sides of the axle wrench, depending on how the nut is oriented in it's rotation so you can keep the torque and axle wrenches in a straight line.

 

[DirtFlier]

Nice setup but way too complicated for me.

I always make sure to clean any corrosion on the axle shaft with steel wool after the wheel is removed, then grease it lightly before installation. After it's installed but without the nut, the axle can be turned easily by hand with only a wrench on the flats of the hex so I torque the axle from the left side, holding the nut with a wrench. It's really not proper to do it this way but in this situation there is nothing that pinches on the axle shaft as the nut is tightened so the torque reading is still accurate.

This has worked for me all these years & 75k miles without causing a problem.

ps. I too have created elaborate tool fixtures for one specific task, then later wondered why I bothered.