How to take off the oil filter.

Coyote Chris

Coyote Chris

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
3,358
Location
Spokane
Bike
10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
I think I have a prototype NT cause there is one and only one way to get the oil filter off. Put the bike on the side stand and put the side stand on a 3/4 inch plywood shim.
Take the oil filter wrench and an angled closed end wrench and loosen the filter a tad. Remove filter wrench and hand screw off the filter. Am I missing something here? I am using the correct
short filter and there is very little room behind the filter, and no magic passageways through the centerstand/side stand areas to get a socket and extension on the filter wrench.
14234
 
I use a K&N filter, just very easy to remove without the extra tool. KN-204-1 Next time I buy filters I am going to try Hiflofiltro HF204RV. I only change oil at the most twice a year, so paying a little more perhaps does not break me.
 
Miairhead said:
I use a K&N filter, just very easy to remove without the extra tool. KN-204-1 Next time I buy filters I am going to try Hiflofiltro HF204RV. I only change oil at the most twice a year, so paying a little more perhaps does not break me.
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Thanks, but that's not MY NT. My NT was made 9/09 and it's the 15 one made in 2010. He didnt say what man. or size of filter wrench he was using but mine is a 14 flat that measures 64.25 mm across opposite flats. I am happy he can get his wrench on the filter on his bike with the centerstand down but I have 1/2 inch clearance between the 2.5 inch filter and lowered centerstand. With the bike on the side stand, I can get the filter wrench on but putting a 8 inch extension through the hole doesnt cut it as the hole is offset from the filter. A wobbly end extension just might do it. Its just easier to use the flat wrench although for getting the torque wrench in there, the wobblyend extension just might work.
(I should say that aftermarket filters are probably fine if they are the correct length but I had a sad experience with a Fram filter so all I use is OEMs. I change filters once a year and I am paranoid doing it that much.
 
Coyote Chris said:
Thanks, but that's not MY NT. My NT was made 9/09 and it's the 15 one made in 2010. He didnt say what man. or size of filter wrench he was using but mine is a 14 flat that measures 64.25 mm across opposite flats. I am happy he can get his wrench on the filter on his bike with the centerstand down but I have 1/2 inch clearance between the 2.5 inch filter and lowered centerstand. With the bike on the side stand, I can get the filter wrench on but putting a 8 inch extension through the hole doesnt cut it as the hole is offset from the filter. A wobbly end extension just might do it. Its just easier to use the flat wrench although for getting the torque wrench in there, the wobblyend extension just might work.
(I should say that aftermarket filters are probably fine if they are the correct length but I had a sad experience with a Fram filter so all I use is OEMs. I change filters once a year and I am paranoid doing it that much.
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I just use a band type filter tool to loosen it and spin it off with my fingers.
It only take a few seconds and I do not use a torque-wrench when tightening the new one, just comfortably tight by hand.
It is always done on the sidestand whilst the oil is draining.
Ask any mechanic if he/she uses a torque-wrench on a filter and 99.99% will say, NEVER.
I have been fitting filters for over 50 years and have never used a T-W.

Macka
 
I use a filter wrench like in this picture. There is plenty of room to slide it over the end of the filter and it grips securely. I bought it at my Honda dealer. It would not work to torque it if you want to do that.

Brad
 

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ARKNT said:
I use a filter wrench like in this picture. There is plenty of room to slide it over the end of the filter and it grips securely. I bought it at my Honda dealer. It would not work to torque it if you want to do that.

Brad
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Cool!
 
Macka said:
I just use a band type filter tool to loosen it and spin it off with my fingers.
It only take a few seconds and I do not use a torque-wrench when tightening the new one, just comfortably tight by hand.
It is always done on the sidestand whilst the oil is draining.
Ask any mechanic if he/she uses a torque-wrench on a filter and 99.99% will say, NEVER.
I have been fitting filters for over 50 years and have never used a T-W.

Macka
Click to expand...
I mostly dont use a torque wrench on filters, except when I am working on Aircraft. But one day in the 1970s, a friend brought me an American car (old) to do an oil change. The Filter was out where I could get to it. It was so stuck I had to tear off the sheet metal from the filter and hammer/chisel what was left counter clockwise to break it loose. I like the ones that say, "Turn 3/4 turn after contacting gasket. " I got lazy not using a torque wrench on thread type screw valve adjuster nuts so I checked myself. I was way too tight.
 
Yes, I have had a few over the years that had been over-tightened by the previous fitter requiring serious action to get them off.
As tight as you can do it by hand is adequate, unless it is an aircraft!

Macka
 
I have found that hand tight is all that is needed. Chris, buy and use a WIX WL10000. It was specifically designed for the clearance issues with the NT700. A long story as to how that filter came about, but it works beautifully on the NT.

Mike
 
Have I been missing something over the last few years (well since went from the old type filter to the canister style: yep I am old). I think every old filter box says hand tighten only..
 
+1 to ARKNT's filter wrench. I fought with getting the filter off just once and found that motorcycle filter wrench was the answer. Plus it even includes the drain bolt wrench on the other end! I also use it to tighten the new filter as it offers good torque 'feel'. Amazon has it for $11 and change.


Amazon.com: Show Chrome Accessories 4-201 Oil Filter Wrench: Gateway

Buy Show Chrome Accessories 4-201 Oil Filter Wrench: Oil Filter Wrenches - Amazon.com âś“ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
Macka said:
Yes, I have had a few over the years that had been over-tightened by the previous fitter requiring serious action to get them off.
As tight as you can do it by hand is adequate, unless it is an aircraft!

Macka
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You and Mike are young! When you hit 70, you wont be able to open a jar of peter butter without a jar wrench...I laughed today and thought about you. I was putting on a new oil filter on my V-strom and the instructions said 14 ft -lbs or two turns after the O ring gasket contacted the flange. So I did it by hand and probably got 3/4 of the first turn. I put on the torque wrench and it was really pretty close to two turns.
 
Miairhead said:
Have I been missing something over the last few years (well since went from the old type filter to the canister style: yep I am old). I think every old filter box says hand tighten only..
Click to expand...
The people who write up those old boxes dont have arthritis. LOL! I have never seen that. All my oil filters used to say "turn 3/4 more after contacting gasket" or something like that. Now they usually have torque settings.
 
Coyote Chris said:
Thanks, Mike. I like the fact that they give the specs. Didnt see motorcycles on the chart.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...0/80c2d8dbb188/wix-oil-filter/wl10000/4837312
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If you scroll down the page a bit and click on "compatibility" and then select Honda, voila! You will note that the filter is designed specifically for Honda motorcycles with regard to filtration, anti-drainback valve and relief valve and burst strength. As I said, there is a story behind Wix making this filter. I brought the NT puncture problem to Wix engineering attention and they designed this filter for this issue.

Mike
 
Having spent all of yesterday flying home from So Cal my feeble mind is a little foggy this morning but I seem to recall the Honda installation instructions call for "1/4 turn after the O-ring contacts the machined boss." And I've never removed the filter with the bike on the sidestand. I used always use the centerstand.

Coyote Chris - they moved the replica of O'Hare's Wildcat off into an alcove at O'Hare field so it's really in the backwater now. :-( My plane from LA docked at B6 then I had to walk to F17 but fortunately I knew my way 'round so it wasn't as bad as it sounds. If everything was in a straight line alphabetically, it would have been one heck of a long walk! The changes at the airport amazed me.!
 
Honda sells the correct short filter and a cap wrench as a kit (FILTER SET, OIL 15010-MCE-H51) or the filter alone. The kit costs about $20 and the filter about $10. You only get 2-3 uses out of the wrench before the hex shears off, though. And why does the hex break, you ask? Because even though I've been changing my own oil for decades and know how tight they're supposed to be, the filter freezes on there and is a total PITA to get off.
 
The trick for removing the filter wrench after installing the new filter is to merely apply force backwards so the edges of the tool slip off the raised edges on the filter can. If it's stuck on the old filter on your work bench, just use a punch and tap on the center - through the hex - and the filter will pop free. Simple!

I have had one filter wrench for more than 15 years so I have no idea what you're doing to break the welds on the hex!
 
More than once I got so frustrated I took a large screwdriver and a hammer to the oil filter........worked every time, but made one heck of a mess.
 
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