Touch up paint

Coyote Chris

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
3,652
Location
Spokane
Bike
10 Red NT 14 FJR, 17 XT
Back home killing trees. My VFR now has a new clutch lever. The sliders and pannier saved much of the body work. Just a scratch here and there. Is there a chart or something at an auto parts store to get the exact color paint?
Chip the tree killer
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I know of no paint charts for motorcycles at parts stores.

Mike
 
Color Rite shows Victory Red 2880 for 2014 Interceptor

Mike
Thanks Mike. There is a sticker under the seat on my 2015. Color R334. You are correct. this is Red 2880. Colorrite offers a complex kit for $77.

This seems like bravo sierra to me. Why would you need JUST THIS BASE with the color???????? $77 ???????????????????????????????????????????????
I will try something else. I remember when Honda offered little bottles of touch up paint.....
How about a sticker...most of the ones I like are riskee.
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I was able to order a tube of Bloom Red (one step) paint from Honda. Using the paint code from the sticker on the bike. the Honda dealer was able to find a Honda P/N for the tube.

Mike
 
I was able to order a tube of Bloom Red (one step) paint from Honda. Using the paint code from the sticker on the bike. the Honda dealer was able to find a Honda P/N for the tube.

Mike
Thanks! I will check.....but still interested in this 3000 grit polish technique.
 
3M makes a terrific polish with a very mild abrasive called Finesse-It. Used by car dealers and detail shops. Expensive, but worth it!

Mike
 
3M makes a terrific polish with a very mild abrasive called Finesse-It. Used by car dealers and detail shops. Expensive, but worth it!

Mike
I have a kit if I can find the part that goes into the drill with velcro pads and 3M 39005 rubbing compound and I also have Meguirars ultimate polish and Turtle wax polishing compound, light to medium.
 
I have a kit if I can find the part that goes into the drill with velcro pads and 3M 39005 rubbing compound and I also have Meguirars ultimate polish and Turtle wax polishing compound, light to medium.
The Turtle Wax compound is likely too aggressive. Meguires is probably OK. Meguires assigns a numeric value to their products denoting their aggressiveness, use the least aggressive product possible. Look up the 3M product and see what the abrasive value is. The 3M pads are good. The foam pads are least aggressive the lambs wool more so. Don't apply excessive pressure to the drill, let the pad do the work. Don't keep the pad in one spot, move over the whole area gently. Stop frequently to examine your work. Spray the area with a water bottle and wipe off the haze with a clean cotton towel to see your progress. The polishes that you will want to use should say "removes swirl marks", "clearcoat safe", etc. Once you are satisfied with the repair, apply several coats of a good quality carnauba wax to protect the fisnish. I know that ceramic polishes are now the rage but I don't think that they "fill" the imperfections as well as good old fashioned carnauba. If you want ceranic protection, apply it after the carnauba.

Mike
 
The Turtle Wax compound is likely too aggressive. Meguires is probably OK. Meguires assigns a numeric value to their products denoting their aggressiveness, use the least aggressive product possible. Look up the 3M product and see what the abrasive value is. The 3M pads are good. The foam pads are least aggressive the lambs wool more so. Don't apply excessive pressure to the drill, let the pad do the work. Don't keep the pad in one spot, move over the whole area gently. Stop frequently to examine your work. Spray the area with a water bottle and wipe off the haze with a clean cotton towel to see your progress. The polishes that you will want to use should say "removes swirl marks", "clearcoat safe", etc. Once you are satisfied with the repair, apply several coats of a good quality carnauba wax to protect the fisnish. I know that ceramic polishes are now the rage but I don't think that they "fill" the imperfections as well as good old fashioned carnauba. If you want ceranic protection, apply it after the carnauba.

Mike
Thanks! good info. The Meguiars says Polish, Pre-waxing glaze G19216. I can go to their web site.....3081017 is another number. Now to figure out how to use the 3000 grit wet or dry
 
Get a spray bottle and fill it with water. Water down the sandpaper and the surface and keep it well lubricated with water. Use a sanding block to hold the paper, your bare fingers apply the pressure too unevenly. Lightly apply pressure while moving the block in a circular motion around the damaged area. The operative word is lightly. You will notice that the water is turning a milky color, that is the clearcoat. When you see this stop, and rinse of the area and inspect it. If gouges still exist, you can not only see them but feel them with your finger nail. Reapply water to the surface, rinse of the sand paper and lightly burnish the damaged area again. You don't have to remove all the scratches entirely. If some minute imperfections still exist, they can be filled in with a high build wax or polish. You want to avoid sanding so deeply that you begin to erode the color. You just want to smooth out the scratches and let the wax/polish due its job to optically hide the imperfections.

Mike
 
A thought occured to me that you may want to find a You Tube vid about this as it is easier to see it done than to try to follow written instructions.

Mike
 
A thought occured to me that you may want to find a You Tube vid about this as it is easier to see it done than to try to follow written instructions.

Mike
Agreed. And you might want to just hand sand the scratches rather than using a drill. Also rather than using a drill a multi tool with one of those triangular sanding pads is much easier to handle if you must use a power tool. But for your small area hand sanding should give you better control and results than any power tool. A power tool with a new sheet of sandpaper can be too aggressive. No one mentioned removing the damaged part from the bike. Working on a horizontal surface is much easier. (of course you could just flop the bike on the other side to be able to work on a horizontal surface too :()
 
Removing the part from the bike (doh!) <slaps head> why didn't I think of that!!?? Much easier!! Thanks, JJ!

Mike
 
Agreed. And you might want to just hand sand the scratches rather than using a drill. Also rather than using a drill a multi tool with one of those triangular sanding pads is much easier to handle if you must use a power tool. But for your small area hand sanding should give you better control and results than any power tool. A power tool with a new sheet of sandpaper can be too aggressive. No one mentioned removing the damaged part from the bike. Working on a horizontal surface is much easier. (of course you could just flop the bike on the other side to be able to work on a horizontal surface too :()
At least removing the pannier and nestling it into a blanket on the work bench makes this easy. The other frame plastic spots are very small. (Chris who is back in the first world. We have internet again but the land line still doesnt work) We also have high winds and 90 degrees :(
Where Chris parks his new car at parking lots.
car parking.jpg
Went shooting for the first time in 9 months with my new eyes. I can see great now and need sun glasses for the first time in 5 years. Range is being protected as much as possible.
Whoa to anyone who trys to shoot a bullet with steel in it. There are magnets on every bench. The last fire was 100 acres.
Range 2025.jpg
 
Get a spray bottle and fill it with water. Water down the sandpaper and the surface and keep it well lubricated with water. Use a sanding block to hold the paper, your bare fingers apply the pressure too unevenly. Lightly apply pressure while moving the block in a circular motion around the damaged area. The operative word is lightly. You will notice that the water is turning a milky color, that is the clearcoat. When you see this stop, and rinse of the area and inspect it. If gouges still exist, you can not only see them but feel them with your finger nail. Reapply water to the surface, rinse of the sand paper and lightly burnish the damaged area again. You don't have to remove all the scratches entirely. If some minute imperfections still exist, they can be filled in with a high build wax or polish. You want to avoid sanding so deeply that you begin to erode the color. You just want to smooth out the scratches and let the wax/polish due its job to optically hide the imperfections.

Mike
Good info!
 
Agreed. And you might want to just hand sand the scratches rather than using a drill. Also rather than using a drill a multi tool with one of those triangular sanding pads is much easier to handle if you must use a power tool. But for your small area hand sanding should give you better control and results than any power tool. A power tool with a new sheet of sandpaper can be too aggressive. No one mentioned removing the damaged part from the bike. Working on a horizontal surface is much easier. (of course you could just flop the bike on the other side to be able to work on a horizontal surface too :()
The saving grace is that I will do a little bit and learn. Could be useful later. And I wont be rushed. And there is always the reflector. Two weeks till I go to Oshkosh and then early August I am off to ride the roads around Cody, then a trip to Helena with my partner....Hope it isnt hot but its hotter than Haides here now and into next week. The big tent here is gonna stay home from Oshkosh...taking only a four person. Not taking dogs either. Jim is in charge of good Oshkosh weather.
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OK! Got the paint and materials and 3000. Unfortunately, there is only one week to Oshkosh and people are setting fires everywhere so I am working on my land. The sky to the West last night. There is a 5800 acre wildfire 30 miles away.
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