A tire matching question

basketcase

basketcase

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Joined
Dec 30, 2021
Messages
70
Location
Alabama, USA
Bike
2010 Silver NT700V
The tires on my (still new to me) NT7 are Michelin Pilot ACTIV's. The particular tire is a bias-ply touring tire that I have learned has been discontinued.

The front is in immediate need of replacement. It's six years old, and down to the wear-bars anyway.

The rear still has the mold nipples on it; per the date it is about 3 years old.

My question is about matching a bias-ply tire for the front that will play well with the rear.

There may be a Michelin bias ply that I've overlooked in an hour or so of web browsing. Or, there may be a tire by another manufacturer that will check the size and construction boxes. I'll be fine with either option.

Suggestions, links, true testimonies, and off the wall comments will of course all be appreciated.

The next time I'll just go with radials, but for now I want to get some use out of that rear tire.
 
I’ve seen bias front/radial rear combo but not the other way around. I have no idea if it would work well.

If it were me I’d buy a radial front and if it doesn’t ride well then buy t radial rear.

I’m currently searching for new tires (front and rear) and can’t find a set of ANY brand/model radials in the correct sizes. So I may be back to riding bias tires again. About the only choice in stock are Metzler Torrance Next which were original on my bike. They weren’t great.
 
junglejim said:
I’ve seen bias front/radial rear combo but not the other way around. I have no idea if it would work well.

If it were me I’d buy a radial front and if it doesn’t ride well then buy t radial rear.

I’m currently searching for new tires (front and rear) and can’t find a set of ANY brand/model radials in the correct sizes. So I may be back to riding bias tires again. About the only choice in stock are Metzler Torrance Next which were original on my bike. They weren’t great.
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Roger that. In my reading today it seems some bikes come with a radial on the rear and a bias-ply on the front, but not the other way around.

RE, Metzler: I had a set of Metzler's on a BMW K75 that cupped and had other issues. No more Metzler's for me.

Otherwise, I'm browsing to look at the Skinko's and Kenda's to get a fix on the compounds to see what will work as a match. The way I see it, if they are both bias tires and the tread is similar - and given my lethargic riding style, I shouldn't have a problem. Then after another year or so of using up the rear I'll just put a set of radials on it front and rear.
 
Back before I bought my 1st NT in '10, I rode a couple of C10 Concours for 165K miles. I'd guess I did about 90K of that on bias-ply tires (IIRC, they were the ones that the GL1500s were using then). I never had any issues with them either with wear or handling. I did ride w/ a radial front and a bias rear for a few thousand miles and wouldn't have done that again.
 
I don't think that the harsh ride on the Wee Strom is a bias tire thing, rather a Heidenau thing. The tires must have an exceptionally stiff sidewall as the PO said the guy at the tire shop said they were the hardest tires he ever had to install. The ride of the NT with the Dunlop radials is absolutely plush in comparison. I can't wait to wear the Heidenaus out as they don't suit my intended riding. I suspect that for a rider who would use the bike for its intended "adventure" riding, they would be ideal.

Mike
 
junglejim said:
I’ve seen bias front/radial rear combo but not the other way around. I have no idea if it would work well.
Click to expand...
basketcase said:
Roger that. In my reading today it seems some bikes come with a radial on the rear and a bias-ply on the front, but not the other way around.
Click to expand...

I've always been told that the bias tire on front and radial tire on rear is acceptable.
Because bias tires are stiffer and have less rolling resistance that radials tires.

Where as; if you did radial on front and bias on rear. The rear bias would be squirming around as it tries to "pass" the front radial.
 
So I opted for the matching set of new radials in Road 4's. Thanks again to all for the feedback and suggestions.
 
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The new rubber is here. Sometime next week I'll remove the wheels and use a friend's tire machine to R&R the tires.

Back to the valve stems question: what are your thoughts on replacing the old rubber stems with a set of those at the link?

The back I think would be okay, but I'm curious about clearance and the brake calipers on the front.

Vofono Black 90 Degree Valve Stems
 
basketcase said:
The new rubber is here. Sometime next week I'll remove the wheels and use a friend's tire machine to R&R the tires.

Back to the valve stems question: what are your thoughts on replacing the old rubber stems with a set of those at the link?

The back I think would be okay, but I'm curious about clearance and the brake calipers on the front.

Vofono Black 90 Degree Valve Stems
Click to expand...
They will work as I had them on my NT. And if you are worried about brake caliper clearance then you can angle them a bit off of right angle.
 
Those are similar to valve stems I use. Work good.
Make sure to lube drive splines when you have that rear wheel off.

Arknt
 
For some reason the forum software is not letting me do a quote.

Anyway, @DirtFlier when I clicked the link, it took me to the listing for the valve stems at Amazon.

Perhaps you have a browser hijacker in your computer?
 
No hijacker as far as I know. By the way, my friend has similar metal valve stems on her NT and she has them pointing to the right and has never had problems.
 
DirtFlier said:
No hijacker as far as I know. By the way, my friend has similar metal valve stems on her NT and she has them pointing to the right and has never had problems.
Click to expand...
Had to do that on another bike where I thought angled valve stems were a good Idea. Now I get short ones and have extenders of various curves and lengths if someone were to put a gun to my head and made me use a gas station air pump. After my new rear tire flat tire firedrill with Frosty in SE Idaho i now carry the WarWolf tire inflator pump with the flexable screw on stem. Set the pressure and push the switch. It stops whent he tire is full and of course has a built in digital air gage. Let the battery run down? It comes with a cigar ligher plug cable. Need to charge your phone? Done. Charge battery with USB C

Amazon.com: WarWolf 160PSI Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor, Electric Air Pump for Car Tires with Pressure Gauge, Dual Power 12V DC, LED Light, Auto Shut-Off, Tire Pump for Auto, Motorcycle, Bicycle, Balls : Automotive

Buy WarWolf 160PSI Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor, Electric Air Pump for Car Tires with Pressure Gauge, Dual Power 12V DC, LED Light, Auto Shut-Off, Tire Pump for Auto, Motorcycle, Bicycle, Balls: Air Compressors & Inflators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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I now have five of these and every one has been tested....

$30 to your door
 
basketcase said:
Roger that, thanks. I'll go ahead and order a set to install while I have the tires off for the tire replacement.
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Mellow made me a believer about tires. He found steel showing on mine after Frosty and I determined the tread was good enough for Spearfish. New stems ever other tire change.
YOUR LIFE IS RIDING ON YOUR TIRES. I buy new radial battle axes for my Vstrom and it wears like iron...and both my FJR and VFR take Road 6 GTs. I have no idea about rough rides. No calibrated butt. Some bikes do cup. My FJR which needs a good home is a tank slapper at 44-46 mph hands off the bars and cruise control set. If my hands are on the bars, no issuess. My Vstrom never cups. The NT cupped.
Best tire? The Kawasaki C10 was a POS...squirrley as heck..afraid to pass semis in a wind....till the Concours owners group told me to go buy Gold Wing sized Dunlops....after that, the bike became steady as a rock and the tires lasted ages....
 
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