Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Phil Tarman
Site Supporter
I've never used anti-sieze, but I'd think about it every time I'd see or hear someone say that you ought to be using it. I'm glad my forgetfulness (and laziness) saved me from a mistake. 
Other brands of spark plug come with an anti seize coating already on them.
That is an interesting article that I find to be somewhere between good to know and useless information.
With modern engines, service intervals and costs, most people, if not everybody, simply install a plug and only remove it when it is due to be replaced. MAYBE if the plug was installed/removed many times this may be a problem BUT if the plug is tightened correctly (not over tightened) I seriously doubt this would happen. In fact I would think that you would strip the thread in the alloy head far earlier than you would break a plug as shown in the pictures.
I have been using anti-seize on plugs for many many years and I have never had a problem BUT I have removed many NGK and other plugs installed WITHOUT anti-sieze that were "binding" in the threads when removed.
My 2 cents worth
With modern engines, service intervals and costs, most people, if not everybody, simply install a plug and only remove it when it is due to be replaced. MAYBE if the plug was installed/removed many times this may be a problem BUT if the plug is tightened correctly (not over tightened) I seriously doubt this would happen. In fact I would think that you would strip the thread in the alloy head far earlier than you would break a plug as shown in the pictures.
I have been using anti-seize on plugs for many many years and I have never had a problem BUT I have removed many NGK and other plugs installed WITHOUT anti-sieze that were "binding" in the threads when removed.
My 2 cents worth
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I agree with Seagrass. A gorilla must have used a 1/2" breaker bar/w pipe extension to break the threads! When I apply anti-seize it's only a tiny dab and I usually wipe it off the outside diameter of the threads, making sure that none of it is close to the combustion chamber.
The black plugs shown in the example photo had so much anti-seize you'd think the person was trying to build-up the aluminum base!
The black plugs shown in the example photo had so much anti-seize you'd think the person was trying to build-up the aluminum base!
I would agree with dirtflyer and seagrass that anti-seize is good stuff. I have used it for many years on plugs. It lets them come out easier. Without it sometimes the threads bind a little and I don't want to damage the threads in the head.
Note that the picture shows a 10mm plug which is smaller than most of the plugs I have dealt with in the past. There is not a lot of meat on a 10mm plug and a gorilla on the end of a ratchet could twist one in two.
Just resist the urge to overtighten and all should be good, extra anti-seize or not.
Brad
Note that the picture shows a 10mm plug which is smaller than most of the plugs I have dealt with in the past. There is not a lot of meat on a 10mm plug and a gorilla on the end of a ratchet could twist one in two.
Just resist the urge to overtighten and all should be good, extra anti-seize or not.
Brad
bicyclist
Guest
Be careful with that. Torque figures are for dry threads unless otherwise specified. If you use a torque spec for dry threads on a lubricated part, you'll over torque it.
I use just a touch of anti-sieze on plugs and a very light hand tightening them.
Years ago, I also learned to remove all of the exhaust system fasteners on a new bike and put anti-seize on them before they get a chance to corrode. Having a header stud break off in the head will ruin your day.
skiper
Guest
Thanks George - that is a useful preventative job. Maybe I'll do it, good to know.