Towing the NT700V in UHaul Trailer

Joined
Jun 28, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Dewey, AZ
Bike
2011 Pearl Black NT700VAB
Hello. I am moving 1,750 miles cross country and I will be towing my NT700V in a 5x8 close UHaul trailer mid November, 2018. I rented a trailer last week to practice backing up a trailer, and having a hands on experience on towing a trailer. I also rolled my NT inside to see if it fits in the 5x8 trailer - it does fit perfectly. Does anyone have any tip on how to secure the bike inside? There are 4 D-rings in the trailer - 2 up front corners and 2 at the rear corners. The D-rings are small and I suspect may not be able to withstand the force on the tiedowns restraining the bike. I may have to fabricate something to support the bike while it is on the center stand - maybe encase it with wooden crate...

Thanks.
 

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I would rather have the bike on it's tires than on the centerstand. I think it would be more stable. You are traveling a long way so it needs to be secure. Also check the tie downs from time to time especially the first miles.
If the trailer has a wood floor I would consider screwing a short piece of 2x4 on both sides of both tires. That prevents wheels moving sideways in transit. If you can get a tie down strap on the handlebars to D rings without pressure on the bodywork that is a good place to start. They need to run forward to compress the fork springs somewhat. Not too much but the spring tension helps. I think also if you remove the little covers on the sides of the fairing, there is strong frame exposed to hook to for another point.
You may need tie down points added to the trailer if the ones there are in wrong place or not suitable.

Brad
 
Suggest you go see a sport bike dealer. You will need a "cross bar" strap for the handlebars, and 6 ratcheting tie down straps. Place the bike in the trailer with the front wheel up against a 4' section of 2x10 or 12. Place the bar strap on the bars and connect one of the ratcheting straps on each side, pulling slightly forward and down to compress the front forks about half way. Tire is up against the 2x10. Install a second set of the straps along side the first set. (These are back up only). Place the last 2 straps on the rear. Last, nail a short section of 2x4, vertically on each side of the front tire. I have hauled as many as 3 large Harley's from Michigan to Florida and back again in the winter months without any problems. Motorcycle dealers have lots of experience with securing and moving bikes.
 
Brad is right. Just remove the tip over covers (one small screw on the bottom) and they make good anchors for tie-downs. I prefer to haul the bike vertical with the tie-downs holding it (center stand up). The two front ones should pull frontwards and the two back one should pull to the rear. The grab handles work well for the rear tie-downs. Sometimes the tip-over bars are too wide and too far back to provide a good angle to the D-rings. Otherwise it may be possible to anchor to the triple clamp on the fork if you can do it without having plastic parts interfere. Don't go around any wires or brake lines.

Use enough tension on the tie-downs to compress the suspension enough so that if you hit a bump the suspension won't compress more and then rebound with enough force to snap the tie-down. I've seen that happen. Extra tie-downs are a good idea since you can't see the bike in the enclosed trailer to watch for something coming loose. And NO CORNERING AT 2Gs

It is good insurance to tape the "S" hooks to the D-rings after the straps are tightened so that if the strap becomes loose it won't come completely un-hooked.

Have a nice trip.
 
Get some Soft Loop Tie Down Straps, like these, https://www.amazon.com/Tie-Straps-Pack-Break-Strength/dp/B016DSUGWO?keywords=motorcycle+straps&qid=1539572270&sr=8-81&ref=sr_1_81

[url]https://www.amazon.com/Sunferno-Ratchet-Straps-2200Lbs-Strength/dp/B01MY4VG66/ref=pd_sim_263_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MY4VG66&pd_rd_r=01758bc1-d028-11e8-891f-0f79428572f9&pd_rd_w=NRkj5&pd_rd_wg=O9UkS&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=52H1Q8VQRY4CY19C7YDZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=52H1Q8VQRY4CY19C7YDZ

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I like to use these to secure the bike to the tie down
Ratchet Tie-Downs. Makes the system much easier to use, you don't have to worry about where to hook up as the ratchet ends are in the loops. As said before do not tie down too tight or on either stand, let the suspension do it job. And if you can made a chock some way is a good idea. Even 2 x 4 to the sides of the trailer will help keep it stable.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=towing+a+motorcycle+with+a+u-haul+trailer
 
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In addition to suggestions already provided.
You may want consider using some type of wheel chock.
Specifically this: https://www.baxleycompanies.com/sport-chock.html

yellow%20848.jpg


That's what I use when loading my NT and other bikes onto my 4x8 utility trailer.
 

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The "cross-strap tiedown" mentioned in an earlier post is called a Canyon Dancer and I've had one for years. It gets the handlebar tiedown points near the end of the grips so the strap will clear the fairing sides. And screwing down short sections of 2 x 4s on either side of the rear wheel will help to keep things in place. If you could do something similar for the front tire it would also be a good idea.
 
When I hauled my NT700 home on an open trailer, I initially had the bike strapped down using the handlebars and a borrowed Canyon Dancer straps as mentioned previously. Once underway I saw the ends of the bars flexing considerably, and the bars were also rotating in the mounts. I stopped and changed the location of the tie downs to the bottom yoke of the front triple tree using some of the soft straps that I have (link attached). So.....based on my experience I would not recommend using the handlebars for the tie towns......I would use the bottom yoke of the triple tree or the tip over bars.

https://www.amazon.com/200lb-Worklo...ocphy=9014427&hvtargid=pla-350346486865&psc=1

I also don't recommend attaching the rear tie down in a way that pulls the bike backwards....it is better to have them pulling slightly forward or sideways - if they pull backwards they try to pull the bike out of the wheel chock and/or create more stress on the front straps that are pulling the bike forward.

I also suggest using some tape over the open hooks as suggested - or do the following:

I cut a piece of rubber tube and slid it over the hook:
jz8e83.jpg


Then after you have attached the hook to the eyelet on the trailer - you just slip the rubber tube through the ring on the hook where the strap attaches.
2mqknxs.jpg


I have used the modified strap for several years and many thousands of miles of trailering.........and they work great! (I should patent this idea).
 
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Here is a thread with the "stuff" I used to pick up my FJ1200. I picked up all of it for around $100 at my local Cycle Gear. The only issue I had was unloading, the front wheel liked being in the front wheel cradle...:rolleyes1: I moved the pivot bolt back after that experience in case I ever use it again!
 
+1 on NOT pulling the rear wheel backwards. That can only lead to bad things happening! :(

On my ancient Kendon trailer, I added tie-down loops alongside the rear wheel on either side (for both rails) so the rear wheel can be fixed in place and without compressing the suspension.
 
Now you have quite a few ideas to get you started.
If using the grab handles for rear tie offs don't pull too hard and break them. They are not steel.

Brad
 
lots of good suggestions here. I tow the NT frequently. I do not strap to the handle handle bars. I have had handle bars move. I use a double loop soft strap around the triple tree. I remove the tip over bar covers and hook the tie down strap directed to the tip over bar. I also use soft straps on the passenger grab rails leading to each rear corner. Front wheel chalk is good to have and can be used at home. If you don't use a wheel chalk, at least nail two by fours on each side of the front wheel. The six point trailer tie down attachment points should be adequate. Don't skimp on the quality of straps.
 
Update: I made it in 1780 miles to my destination with the NT700V in a UHaul trailer. I used the $59.99 Harbor Freight motorcycle chock https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-l...ock-61670.html. With a 3/4" plywood, I screwed the chock onto it. To prevent the plywood from shifting on the trailer bed, I screwed 2"x4" wood on the sides resting against the sides of the trailer. To prevent the plywood from sliding backwards to the tailgate of the trailer, I screwed D-Rings near the rear corners of the plywood and strapped the d-rings to the middle floor D-Rings of the trailer. By the way, I used a center stand dolly with no problem at all. The bike was tight and secure. I made it without any incident.
 

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thanks for sharing it helped me also, recently I bought my first colorado SUV i am willing to use that for 24/7 towing service, so i was looking for towing information so it helped me also.
 
lots of good suggestions here. I tow the NT frequently. I do not strap to the handle handle bars. I have had handle bars move. I use a double loop soft strap around the triple tree. I remove the tip over bar covers and hook the tie down strap directed to the tip over bar. I also use soft straps on the passenger grab rails leading to each rear corner. Front wheel chalk is good to have and can be used at home. If you don't use a wheel chalk, at least nail two by fours on each side of the front wheel. The six point trailer tie down attachment points should be adequate. Don't skimp on the quality of straps.
Have seen this done and it works great ! Already have plans to tie mine down in this method when I haul it.
 
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