Another dead multi-meter

NoVa Chris

Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
98
Location
Northern Virginia
Yesterday went out for a ride. No action from the gauges and no LCD display. The previous day I noticed that total mileage was displayed, which was odd because I always leave the LCD set to trip A to watch fuel level. Anyway, incandescent bulbs in the multi gauge all work -- neutral light, EFI light, high beam, and panel illumination. Its just the four gauges and the LCD that are dead.

Based on previous posts by owners with this specific symptom, I expect I'll be replacing the meter, either just the innards (about $346 from Partzilla) or the assembly (about $480.) Of course I'll check the old unit to see if I can find the fault. I would guess its an internal break in the ground circuit for the meters and LCD. But if its on a printed circuit board or involves a sealed electrical component, I expect it will not be repairable.

I'm happy with the NT and don't mean to complain, but between this, the throttle body I had to change because of the TPS fault, and the saddlebag assemblies I replaced to retain the stock pannier locking set up, this has been the most expensive motorcycle I have ever owned in terms of parts costs. My little Chinese bike may not compare in terms of fit, finish, and general component quality, but at least when its parts break they have been cheap to fix!
 
You might pose a general question on the NT-UK website - "Are refurbished meter assemblies for the 700 available?" They sold many more NTs across the pond and if this is a known problem some small shop may (?) have set up a rescue service. I hope so for your sake!

ps. I received the spring compressor tools today. Thanks!
 
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If you can't find the cause of the problem yourself, may I suggest that you find a reputable "instrument repairer".
I have had car instrument clusters repaired here in Melbourne, Australia quite cheaply when compared to a replacement set.

Macka
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into these options once I get the meter assembly out and check to see if I can find the fault myself.

BTW just to clarify the bike is driveable with the dead gauges. Obviously you won't be able to monitor fuel level or engine temp or other instrument functions. But it doesn't strand you.
 
On UK site try a search for " dashboard " - dead assemblies are not that common. Some early issues with water/damp ingress (do you use a jetwash?) and an odd report of the main connector underneath coming loose but certainly not a big issue. There is some decent info on taking it apart and pictures of the board if you feel a need to go that far. Would suspect a connector/ external issue first though.
 
First check the main connector in the back of the dashnoard. They can get dislodged or the contacts corrode. Look to see if 12V and ground are getting through to the pins.
Then check the solder joints where the main wiring connector us soldered to the circuit board.
Look for corrosion and broken solder joints.
I strongly suspect you'll find a problem in that area.
 
Just to bring this story to closure, I checked the connector on the back of the multimeter, and reconnected it. No sign of corrosion or a problem there, but the multimeter was still dead.

I decided to purchase a complete assembly rather than just the innards on the theory that there would be less chance of damage in shipment. The new multimeter appears to have solved the problem: the gauges and display all work again. I have disassembed the old cluster and found no evidence of corrosion or water ingress. As you can image, its just one large circuit board with numerous components and the gauges themselves soldered into place. I saw no sign of a break in any of the circuits. I may look into whether a specialty shop can repair the old unit, but I really wanted to get back on the road for fall riding.

The swap was easy. Once you basically removed all the plastic from the front of the bike. I chalk this up to just bad luck. It does not happen often, as far as I can tell from the posting on this site and the UK NT site. Thanks to all for advice.
 
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NoVa Chris said:
Just to bring this story to closure, I checked the connector on the back of the multimeter, and reconnected it. No sign of corrosion or a problem there, but the multimeter was still dead.

I decided to purchase a complete assembly rather than just the innards on the theory that there would be less change of damage in shipment. The new multimeter appears to have solved the problem: the gauges and display all work again. I have disassembed the old cluster and found no evidence of corrosion or water ingress. As you can image, its just one large circuit board with numerous components and the gauges themselves soldered into place. I saw no sign of a break in any of the circuits. I may look into whether a specialty shop can repair the old unit, but I really wanted to get back on the road for fall riding.

The swap was easy. Once you basically removed all the plastic from the front of the bike. I chalk this up to just bad luck. It does not happen often, as far as I can tell from the posting on this site and the UK NT site. Thanks to all for advice.
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With the new meter assy, did your odometer start at zero miles or did they program it with your old mileage to make it an accurate reading?

Mike
 
mikesim said:
With the new meter assy, did your odometer start at zero miles or did they program it with your old mileage to make it an accurate reading?

Mike
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I'm back with a zero mileage NT. Funny, it seems so much nicer! Anyway buying the multimeter online gave me no options to reprogram. I don't know if a dealer could have done this but I suspect not.

I happen to have the printout from my state inspection that showed mileage as of August. I have not ridden much since then. I'll keep that report together with the invoice showing the date I purchased the new multimeter. Together that should document approximate true mileage to a buyer if/when the time comes to sell.

In Virginia, when you sell a vehicle, you are supposed to check a box on the old title indicating mileage is not accurate. That is then indicated in the new title. This can hurt the resale value of a vehicle but I doubt it will matter for the NT.
 
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